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About 10  years ago, we compared leather wheel covers made for boats with those made by Wheelskins (http://www.wheelskins.com/) for cars, and the price was much more reasonable.  The company was very cooperative (although somewhat bemused by the diameter of the wheel), and made them to our specs.  There was no trouble lacing them on as they were pre-punched and came with lacing material.  Sure was an improvement over holding onto the steel wheel with bare hands in 40 degrees and sleet as we had to do previously!  The cover was still holding up fine when we sold our 34' ChriSea 1 1/2 years ago. 

Here are some photos.  They fasten between shrouds.  They have different uses depending on whom you talk to.  Chris says they are for fending off pirates (on Lake Michigan).  Other uses include storing extra lines, tying off halyards, etc.  And, they look good!
Ben

Solid Mahogany Belaying Pins. Custom made for our 34.  $355  ChriSea  765-430-2095

A few weeks ago, I posted a question about a leak coming through our head ceiling.  Thank you so much for the suggestion of Captain Crawley's Creeping Crack Repair!  Ben used it on the one little crack on the deck next to the dorade (that I didn't think would cause that leak), and no more leaks since!  We have enjoyed being on this Forum for 9 years and have learned so much!
So the crack repair was great news.... now the mixed news:  Last weekend we unexpectedly traded up to a Catalina 42!  The new boat should be named "Weak Moment" - but since we recently spent $50 getting cards made that say "ChriSea", we will probably have to keep that name. Farewell to you all, and we will still be visiting the forum to check out what's going on.   You're the best.

Thank you for the info, Ron.  The handhold and the hatch were our initial suspects, but they are covered by the dodger and never get much if any water on them.....  So we were looking for where water could be seeping from an unprotected area higher up!
Chris

Regarding holding tank failure....  a couple of years ago, we developed a small leak in the area of the holding tank. It took quite a while to discover that there was a crack in the fitting connecting the "pump out" hose to the tank itself.  We tried to have the crack repaired (some kind of "plastic weld"), but it didn't hold, so had to replace the holding tank.  We ordered the replacement from Catalina.  (Then, in the process of replacing the tank, we knocked loose a strange thru-hull from the P.O.and had to pull the boat...another story).
Lately, we've developed a "head odor" with no evidence of a fluid leak. It got very difficult to pump the head, and we discovered that the holding tank appeared to be under pressure!  Through our previous adventures, we had replaced hoses, so don't think that is the source.  We tried to make certain that the vent opening in the stanchion was not plugged.  Then we realized that the tank was actually full, even though it was just supposed to have been pumped out by the marina.  So did our own pump out and are now waiting to see if the odor is gone.  Does any of this sound like the stanchion vent was clogged, possibly preventing a complete pump out and causing odor?

After launching this spring, we started having brown, sticky fluid leaking around screws in the ceiling of the head.  Occasionally when there had been heavy rain, there was also leakage around the hatch frame, and once, even around the port side dorade vent into the salon.  We are only on the boat on weekends, and there have been leaks each time we return to the boat.  The screw heads where most of the leak is are for the teak handrails that are inside the dodger and protected from rain, so I guess the water must be migrating there inside the deck.  I read in tech notes about leaks possibly from the traveler mounting or even cracks in the traveler base.  We have some small cracks there, but I didn't find any info on how to go about fixing them.  I don't think our traveler bolts go clear through the coach top, but will check that next weekend.  Any other suggestions besides patching those little hairline cracks next to the traveler?  We have re-bedded chain plates successfully in the past, thanks to this group! But I don't know where to start to find the source of this higher up leak! 

My husband made 2 stern perch seats for ChriSea.  He traced the seat (from a friend who had them) and made the seats out of mahogany.  For the clamps to hold to the stern pulpit, he used pvc pipe pieces with a slot cut out of them.  The pvc pieces screw to the bottom of the seat and snap down firmly onto the rail.  At the hardware store, we found painted metal pipes that are meant to hang light fixtures or ceiling fans down from the ceiling.  They are threaded on the ends.  We cut them to size and put a "crutch tip" on the lower end.  We bought a part at the hardware store that mounts flat on the bottom of the seat and the support/pipe screws into it.  We made back rests from swimming noodles which I covered with sunbrella.  We did find a long shaft drill bit that enlarged the hole in the noodles some, so maybe that makes them a more reasonable size to cover the rails.  Ben cut holes in the seats for plastic drink holders.  Be sure to seal these inside edges of the wood well, or they may absorb moisture!
We love the seats, although we have had the same "challenges" with crowding with all the accessories hanging from the rails.  Actually it's not so bad leaning on the dinghy motor!  We have had many compliments on them.

I found a parts supplier on the internet for the rollstop hinge replacement parts.  I believe it is Oyster Bay Marine....  You have to have the exact measurements of your hatch to get the right kit.  We replaced ours last summer and the hatch works great.  We used to prop ours open with a Wet Ones plastic dispenser - that was cheaper but less flexible.

FYI: Ben is the guy in the picture and Chris (who the boat is named after)is the admiral or my new wife.

We are replacing our old Data marine electronics with RayMarine ST60. My Question is about sealant to use around through hulls.  The instructions say to use a sealant and make no suggestions as to which sealant. If anyone has any suggestions on sealant it would be appreciated. Ben Holland /ChriSea #832

Another suggestion:  When we built Dan Harrington's mahogany sole boards that you can see on the Projects page, I used "Helmsman" by Minwax.  Being a furniture maker by trade, I have found "Helmsman" to be exceptionally well-suited for exterior durability.  On "ChriSea", we have teak cockpit sole boards, and we prefer letting the natural color of the teak show through a clear finish rather than use the tinted "Cetol".  As to the actual finishing, make sure the wood is sanded well before any finish is applied;  use 150 - 180 grit.  I would apply the finish with a foam brush.  Let dry 12 hours, scuff sand (220), apply another coat, dry 12 hours, scuff sand......repeat to 4 coats.  You don't say where you sail, but this should be good for 3 - 4 years on Lake Michigan where we are.
Chris and Ben Holland
ChriSea #832

I bought last fall the Raymarine ST60 value pac from West Marine. Also had to buy a NavPod Instrument  Housing.  Make sure the Housing will fit the Pod. Measure the Center to Center spacing on the pod and order accordingly.  I forgot to measure this fall when the boat went on the hard so on our way to Strictly Sail in Chicago we will stop by Hammond and measure. Of course, I've already received the instruments.   Most important , I have a friend at our marina who knows exactly what to do and is a lot younger than I  which means he doesn't mind climbing the mast for the wind inst. Total cost for the instruments, NavPod, taxes , and shipping was 1695.17. Labor is estimated around $400.  Ben  ChriSea # 832

Picked up a shutoff valve from local hardware store for about 3 dollars.  Works as if I paid sailboat prices.   Ben Holland / ChriSea

After sailing ChriSea for 2 years, we discovered that we cannot find anything on the boat that looks like an emergency tiller.  We are thinking that a 1" pipe about 15" long should fit.  Any suggestions where the emergency tiller could be hiding or what it looks like?  Has anyone purchased one?  We used the Search function and found some information about using it, but no description of the actual part or where it is normally stored.  Thanks!