Messages

Did mine with 5200, I did not re-fair the joint.  I just paint over it with VC17.  I only see it twice a year.
My project is in the wiki if you missed it.  Jerry may like the stuff he recommends but the guys in the factory were hardly using any of it to bed the keel.

Gentlemen! A very entertaining thread.  1 question to all:
I hold my glo button until the engine starts.  Pretty much the same time you'd let go the start key. I only glo for about 5 or 6 seconds.  Engine starts right up in about 2-4 seconds.  Glo current is about 18 to 20 amps plus cranking amps 100?.  Did this heretofore bad habit ruin my four 2 year old Duracell 6v GC batteries?

Notes: Samlex 3 stage charger, Isotherm water cooled reefer, no inverter, no other loads when the boat is on shore power for the week.  I always crank the engine on ALL.  No dedicated start battery.  Suddenly this season the batteries have been losing water... last check was 1 gallon in a week.  Bought a new Samlex charger, it as well as the old one are charging at 10-12 amps continuously, used to settle in a 1-3amps.  The old one is a suspect due to an overvoltage of shore power which damaged a lot of peoples equipment at the club 2 years ago.  Recently I've had to use the compression release to get started.

I replaced the forestay a year ago.  I also had a damaged foil, the one with the drive hole at the bottom.
The mast was down anyway and that makes things easier.
If you are doing this with the mast up I don't think you can push the whole furler up enough to get to the turnbuckle, but I'm not sure.
loosen the clamp with a 3/16 allen then the you can slide the part with the continuous furling line down to get the rope out.  There is a stripper in there don't do this over water.
Slide the entire unit up to unscrew the turnbuckle. There is a bolt that goes through the top of the furler drive and into the first foil.
Once you back that off and remove the turnbuckle, the furler drive should slide off.
The foils have a plastic guide that goes on the forestay first then insert into the foil. 
I've had the boat 12 years and never knew I had no cotter pins in the forestay turnbuckle.... 
I also have the "manual" for my Hood 915 but it's fairly useless. 

Patches, let me know how it works out for you. 
You can contact me here for return or if you want to hang on to it as somebody may need it soon this time of year.
my email is servolaz@rochester.rr.com

Mark, I had same problem with mine.  Run it off a battery charger and it acted like it was brand new.
Put it in the boat and it popped the breaker.  Could be bad breaker, higher than normal resistance in the circuit connections getting to the pump. Or in my case it's just a crappy pump no pun intended. I removed it after trying to shim the pump housing with more gaskets and found that it's not worth the effort it took to make it work. 

On this subject I'd like to point out that the shrinkage of the hull at temps down to 0F are enough to pull out all the screws in the Eyebrows I put back on in 90F summer temps.  I drilled and filled all the holes, used teeny bit larger screws and put my teak eyebrows on the boat during a nice hot week in the high 80's to 90F.
Over the winter the eyebrows pulled most of the screws out mid Eyebrow.  My plan is to do this again when temps are about 48degrees.  Any thoughts??

Joyride so where is the old furler?  I'm not ready to part with mine... would be interested in parts from it.
Thanks!

Food for thought:  My bronze shaft which is cast, so you can only indicate on the machined ends was within .005" runout.  All the vibration in my case was from the prop which I had balanced and 1 blade re-pitched back to normal. If there is any vibration from the shaft it's pale in comparison to what the engine is doing.

.025" is a lot and it also takes a huge amount of force to bend a ss shaft like that so I would be inclined to think it was like that when they put it in your boat or it was hauled with the strap over your prop shaft. 

This is my low budget table solution.
It started out as a cherry glue up I did for a head board for a single bed.  It never got finished so one day I just took to it and laid out an ellipse that was as large as possible 36x19 I think.  It swivels on the pedestal for easy access and is perfect for 2 eating at the table and perfect for 4 doing cocktails etc...   we never eat below underway. 

I can't understand how you'd need to do anything to Black Dragon after reading/seeing all the posts of the PO.
There again, this only confirms that boats are always a work in progress.  I dropped my keel, you may want to see what we did there.  In my opinion it was an easy task as long as you have a bit of mechanical ability.

Can I suggest you take the tank out and clean it.  It comes out easy.  Hardest part is getting the filler hose off.
I put a gallon of simple green and a gallon of water in the tank and left it in my work truck all winter. Sloshing around while driving.  It never froze even if it did it's doubtful it would hurt at 2gal level.  Drained and rinsed with boiling water.  Clean as a whistle.

I bought my 1990 in 2008 and it had the original painted same color as the engine secondary fuel filter.
I replaced it with a Napa in 2008 and have not changed it yet as there is less than 150 hours of run time since then.

put mine in in less than five minutes this weekend.  What a deal!  slide and forget

Is that the original spin on filter for the injection pump??

I wouldn't bother removing the hose barb. Barnacles stick out enough you'll knock the out with merely a coat hanger.  However I now have a piece of 1/4 plastic tube and a 30'' length of hose for unclogging my engine intake.  Pull the engine hose, slip on the 30'' water hose no clamp needed, open the ball valve, shove the plastic hose down the whole works, done.  I got clogged at sea and I had nothing on board for this.  I didn't want to go over the side.  I used my shower to unclog the intake: unscrew shower/faucet head from hose, withdraw hose from sink fixture, remove hose from water pump on the engine. shove faucet shower hose into engine intake hose. Turn on the water.  The pressure began to increase then there was whoosh sound.  This won't remove barnacles of course but anything else will have a hard time staying in there.