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Sounds like you are the right path.  I would say keep doing more of the same.  Try looking at some different pullers from napa or somewhere that loans tools.  When I pulled mine I used a socket and the longer bolt method.  I would try that, leave the pressure on the shaft and then apply heat, then more pressure, PB, heat and so one.  Then throw the coupling away and get a flexable one from federal.

99% chance they are lewmar

As others have stated before, unless each engine has been checked with a laser tach, all readings from the boat tach are useless.  Calibrate the tach then start to compare speed.  And I would use a gps in calm water and no tide verses the boat knot meter.

Paula's, sounds like your panel is a great balance for your average daily usage.  We used a 130 watt panel on our previous c30 and never had an issue. We currently use a 240 panel mounted on the Davits and have power to spare even late in the year when the sun is much lower up here above 45 degrees lat.  We have converted to LEDs but we still use a ton of power.  Our kids watch movies on a 32 inch tv, charge up all the electric gizmos, and the fridge never gets shut off.  I would always recommend to anyone to mount the biggest panel you can fit.   

if the bolt you see is vertical ( pointing down) than its from the headsail car track

pop the hose off after the joker valve fitting, pump and you know what side of the system has the problem. 

Roc, I had the guard made locally by Stainless outfitters in Barrie Ontario.  The standard Edison guard was two inches shorter.  I needed the extra couple of inches to allow the table wings to unfold and still clear the cup holder.  I also try and use local guys whenever I can.  They have made me a couple of sets of Davies, and lots of odds and ends over the years and have fair prices. 

I do like the options others have used to allow them to rotate their plotter towards there seating location.  I had this for years and do miss this option at times.   I am still exploring different options to mount my iPad.

Steve, I got the Nav pod from defender last winter. I think it is model GP1171.  Not sure if it is still in production or not.  If you go to the nav pod website you will find just about any combination or size you want.  It was a perfect fit for a C80 and 4 ST 60's.  The usable surface is available for each modal, then you get to figure out what layout you want.  I printed out the templates for each of my units and arranged it how I wanted on my kitchen table then found the mount to fit.  I had to have a new pedestal guard made $175 and the nav pod was around $450.  If you have the guard off ditch the crappy plastic guard feet that edson uses get some stainless ones and remove the core material from the cockpit sole and seal it with epoxy at the same time.  We have been working on removing all potential exposed core material from every fitting on the boat.  This will be the winter I will have the rest of them done.  I have done over 70 holes so far, I think we have about 80 more to go.

This is our setup.  I installed this last year after having a miss mash of different set ups.  I really like how clean and organized everything is.  I can clearly see over the an pod, I am 5' 10''.   All devices are integrated and I run a iPad with navionics for backup

Thanks Fred, we are headed towards San Souci today and the sun is shinning so I might tackle it up there.

Thanks Fred, we are on the boat for the month so this looks like a great sunny day project.  Is there enough clearance to get the cover off without removing the traveller?  Does the cover just slid straight aft when you remove the screws? 

The design of the companion way cover has driven me nuts for years.  Water drains off the cover into a track and then aft into the cockpit right onto your cushions.  After a couple of rainy days I got fed up and taped over the grove that the cover sits in.  Can anyone tell me whether I can just fill this grove with silicone and deal with the mess if I need to remove the cover.

We mounted our wash down pump under the head sink and tied into the head intake.  Also added a strainer basket just above the static water line.  Makes it easy to winterized by shutting off the intake and running the pump.  A couple of strokes on the head and it's done as well.

Are you kidding me, is there ever an issue that Ron does not have an immediate solution for.  Wow!

I was attempting to replace my accessory belt this week and realized I cannot get enough slack in the belt to get it off.  The alternator hits the coolant line running down the port side of the engine.  I have an extra piece of hose around the coolant line to prevent chafe because the hose rubs a bit on the engine and the alternator bracket so this might make things worse for me. 

I removed the water pump pulley to get it off, I guess I could have pulled the alternator as well, but the pulley seemed easier.

Anyone else run into this issue, I will take a picture next time I am up!