Messages

Has anyone washed the fabric covers used in the veer berth or aft cabin?  The fabric used to cover the foam mattress's in our berths is different from the salon cushions.  I think many boats were done this way.  Just wondering if we can throw the covers in the washing machine and hang them to dry or if they shrink?

Thanks in Advance.
Cory

John S
Do you happen to remember the part number for the K&N.  I have  an m35a but I bet they are the same.

Cory

Markr
Our house bank consists of four golf cart batteries under the seat forward of the galley and a start (emergency) battery under the starboard settee just forward the house bank and water heater.  Mk11's do not have a water tank in this location so this might not work for you.  We had to add about 5 feet to the battery cables to make it work.  We increased the cable size to 2/0 at the same time. 

Cory

Check out this months SAIL magazine.  They just did a 3 page article of how to install one.

cory

Ron
I did the alignment prior to pulling the boat.  Should this suffice? 

Thanks Cory

The factory brochure did not change the displacement between the mk1 and mk11.  Does this seem possible?  I would assume the mk11 is a little heavier considering the how much farther aft the beam is carried.

After reading all the posts on this site we decided to install a flexable coupling.  I went with the federal-43A.  This coupling was a direct replacement for the stock coupling.  The shaft did not require any modifications and the prop remained the same distance from the strut.  This coupling also allowed enough space for the PYI shaft seal. 
We purchased the coupling directly from federal in Florida.  Including shipping to Toronto it came to around $275.  It came with the required hardware, including the bolts and grub screws.  I think that is what the screws that go into the shaft are called.

The boat won't be back into the water for a couple more weeks, so I can't say if makes reduces vibs or not yet.  We also changed our cutlass bearing and installed a feathering prop (from a folding) so a totally accurate report is unlikely.

Just wanted to let everyone know how straight forward the install is with this model.

Hi Stewart
I have an SS anchorlift swivel.  It is the strongest rated component in my system.  Breaking load is rated for 12,500 pounds.  Working load is 1/4 breaking load.  I wonder what would happen if I applied 12,500 pounds to my chain stopper or the cleat or an other part of the boat for that matter.  Mine works great, the windlass sucks the chain in, anchor spins around to the proper position, spray the goop off and push the windlass button again.  Clean hands, and happy wife.

Cory

Hi Les
The luff lenth should be the same as your current sail even if you go to a 155.  So you should be able to measure your current headsail.  I noticed you are from Barrie, so am I.  I recognized your named from the Midland Bay sailing Club.  I used to be the vice commodore and remembered your name from the waiting list.  I remembered the name because you used to have a C30 (as did I) and lived just a few streets away from me.  I also bought a mk11 c34 last year. 
Small world.  I have new ullman 150 if you want to measure it to be sure.  I also have a ullman 155 fiberpath performance sail that could be mearsured as well. 

Cory

flush trim bit and a template works really well.

Mike
I just changed my bearing (and prop, and coupling).  I was not able to get the shaft past the rudder (mk11).  As a matter of fact, it was not even close.  I was concerned about drooping the rudder until I actually got to it.  20 minutes to dig the hole and 15 to drop the rudder.  Installing the rudder took close to an hour, and that included finding someone to lift the rudder while I lined up the quadrant and inserted the retaining bolt.  I would not give the yard more then 2 hours labor for this job. 

I was not able to remove the bearing with the strut pro.  As a matter or fact I had to cut the bearing up with hacksaw and dig it out in pieces.  It moved about 1/4 inch with the strut pro and stopped.  I put a ton of force on the wrenches and it just would not go.  Weird. 

Food for thought.

Hi Steve
We have a 11 and half foot rib on davits.  No issues.  The mk11 carries the beam farther aft but the i think the beam is the same (or very close).

Cory

Hi Kurt
If you disassemble the end of the boom you can reach a long way in.  But I don't think you can make to far enough for a second reef cheek block.  I have a MK11 boat with the single line reefing.  I just added cheek blocks to the front of the boom for both reef 1 and 2 and a double cheek block to the rear of the boom to lead the lines aft.  I drilled and taped the boom.  I found the single line reefing difficult at best.  The boat is fairly new to us, but it only took one reefing exercise to realize single line reefing does not work for me.

Cory

KevMar
You do not need to fill the new filter first, but it will make it easier to reprime the system.  I don't fill mine first because I don't want too drop the thing when it is full of fuel.  As far as not getting air in the system, that is not an option.  You will need to bled the system.  I am sure there is a hundred posts on how to bled the fuel system, so i will leave that alone.  It also matters what engine you have.  I have had both the M25 and M35 and they are a little different.

Clean Fuel = Happy Engine

Cory

This site, the for sale link on the homepage. Click on the for sale link on the bottom of the homepage then go to parts and pieces.  You will see the posting for a microwave from a 1999 MK11.

I copied the guys email address for you. 
Ssayian@hotmail.com

Cory