Messages

Jerry

I have no experience with wood burning on a boat. But take a look at this. http://www.swego.com/mall/heat_pal_5100.asp I have used this for years and it really throws the heat. The fuel is alcohol and very safe. It also doubles as a stove to make coffee/soup etc. on the colder days.

Mark

Doug, it is a long shot but I have seen this before. A hose will delaminate on the inside and when you create a vacum in the system a bad hose of this kind will delaminate and block off the water from the inside of the hose. The out side of the hose looks normal but the inside is not. Of course the only way you can tell for sure is to get another hose and see if the problem re-occurs.

Just another possibility!

Mark

Mike

Just for interests sake. What did the 8 large lead ingots weigh? A knot and a half is certainly substantial.

Mark

Kerk

We too sail the North Channel of Lake Huron as well as the open lake. I have a tall rig and am very pleased with it. I wouldn't go to a standard rig if I didn't have to. I also wouldn't let that  stop me from buying the boat if all other things were equal. I say that because I have the tall rig, and in light air it does indeed make a difference. I know people with the standard rig  and shoal draft keel who are very happy. They also think I am nuts gunkholing with a fin keel . (You have not been to the North Channel if you have not left some bottom paint on a few rocks). Yea I know. It might be off topic a bit, but I think it is a consideration. A shoal draft keel doesn't go with the tall rig in my mind. Or vice vs. You hit the nail on the head when you said you would have light and heavy winds in the North Channel. If you travel from west to east you would be very glad of a tall rig to take advantage of the prevailing winds.  Regardless it is a great boat and you can't go wrong. A can of worms maybe. Lets see what other say.

Happy Sailing

Mark

Ken

I checked as Stu has suggested. There is a price difference. Not only the Rig$$$. But also other things. ie. Sails, both main and Genoa. May be it is just an honest mistake but then again........

I would go after the broker. What is right is right. If the broker is not professional enough to know the difference, and the importance of the difference. Maybe a lighter wallet might serve to enlighten him.

Can you imagine the favorable comments he might receive from you towards others in the sailing community. Can he imagine the negative comments if he did less than due. He couldn't buy the good will you offer. This is what gives Boat Brokers of all stripes a less than favorable reputation.

I will get off my soap box now!

Ken stick to your guns and happy sailing. Regardless, standard or tall rig you now have an awesome boat.

Mark

Ken, my boat is on the hard for the winter as well. I am lifted out with the mast up too. I have to remove the forstay and furling temporarily in order for the travel lift to pick the boat up. I first loosen the back stay and it is not a bit deal. I did take the time to lubricate the turn buckles and they are loosened by hand. I then take two Jib halyards to bend the mast forward and take the load off of the forestay.  The halyards are connected back far enough on the second stantion so as not to interfere with the travel lift.  The whold operation takles less than 15 minutes and is done by hand by one person.  I am not sure if it would matter to you but try and remove the forestay and not the back stays. That way you only have to loosen the back stays and not totally remove them.

As for considering this year allowing the main halyard and topping lift to support the mast for the winter thereby avoiding the aggravation of reattachment. I wouldn't do it. Your boat is going to experience way stronger winds this winter than it will ever experience in the summer. Also the boat is not on the water and doesn't have the forgiving heeling effect. There is no give in the cradle. Also if the halyard and topping lift were sized to take the full effect of the stress put on your shrouds and stays,  the shrouds and stays would be made of the same size line and not stainless wire.

A few thoughts.


Mark

Steve and Nancy:

It is easy to spend some one elses money.  :P But while you are at it. Check this out  www.e-marine-inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html
There will never be a better time for a drippless packing.

Mark

Kerk.

I have a 1990 version Universal. Very happy. My neighbour has a 1988 Yanmar he too is very happy. That about says it all. Both are very good/reliable products. There might be a few differences that prop types or sizes, boat displacement, maintance issues or just plain old preferences that might sway a person one way or the other. I would not let one or the other sway my thinking regarding a boat purchase. There are so many other issues that are important and $$. I say, maintain either one properly they will last a long time. Just my two cents.

Mark

Richard: Check this out. http://c34ia.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1163&highlight= I did it last year. A lot of work but well worth it. I suggest you deal with the blisters and then put a barrier coat on. Inter-protect 2000. Then VC-17. There is a lot of help on this site dealing with the blisters. First step should be to open them up this fall which will give it the winter to drain.

Good Luck!

Mark

Sun, age and use have deteriorated both of the Genoa foot blocks shattering them (on the same day) and rendered them useless. They were the old vinyl plastic design. I have purchased new guts from Garhauer and am ready to install them. I managed to get at the nuts at the back end of the port block by removing the engine control panel. The starboard side is a different story however. I see no access directly on the side or below in the aft cabin. There is a beckson port below, however I cannot decide if it is there for winch access or the foot block. Regardless it is not in a beneficial position and when I removed the cover I found that there was a good layer of foam sprayed inside.

I did a search and found nothing that answered my questions. Has any done this and how did you gain access?  Any help please??

Regards,

Mark

Jim, I just put on new stanchion blocks for the Hood Furling up grade. On hull #1063, 1991 they were 1" stantions.

Mark

I just did the swap. Not a big deal and this thread helped to make up for the lack of instructioins from Hood. Haven't tried it under sailing conditions yet. But the first time I used it to re-install the sail I was convinced that it was a valuable upgrade. Can't add much to this thread as far as advice. Other than Hood did recomend a 3/8 furling line and that 1/3 of the 80 ft be cored. This allows for more turns on the drum. They didn't tell me about the trade in value. But I will check into it this week.

Next job a rigid vang, instead of the traveller upgrade.  Truly a hole in the water............

Mark :cool:

Mike: I think you are right about the new wireless instruments being the way of the future. They will probably get less expensive as technology advances. The biggest price reduction will come when another manufacturer comes on line. I would imagine Ratheon and others already have something on the drawing board. Should be interesting at the boat shows in about one year.  :)

Mark

David: I did this last year while the mast was down. Not a hard job, but impossible to do with the stick up. Consider replacing at least two of the sheaves. Also other mast maintance can be easily accomplished while the mast is horizontal.

Mark

I am looking to replace the aft cabin cushions with a decent mattress. My long term plan is to move up in boat years from a 1990 model to a much newer model C-34 and I want to bring the mattress along. (Should be my last sailboat) I am pretty sure the Mk2  hull is wider aft. I don't think there is that much of a difference but thought I would ask the question. How much of a difference in the aft cabin size is there between a MkI to a Mk2? Is it enough to worry about as far as the size of the mattress is concerned?

Regards,

Mark