Messages

Thanks for the replys.  I feel much better about what I am doing now.  Also talked to a couple of local Catalina owners (smaller boats) and they had same advice.  Flatter is better.

Being new to sailing, I am still trying to understand what the "reasonable" heel angle window is for the C34.  I am on an inland lake but still get very strong winds and gusts.  Sometimes the boat feels like it is going over too far but I know that is my inexperience.  At what angle am I getting myself into real trouble.  I can always point up to bail out quickly but I don't want to be premature.  I hear about people "burying the rail" but in lake environment, that seems like a lot of freebaord to overcome and still survive.  I can understand in rolling seas how you could do that at much less angle.

So what is the opinion?  I have a clinometer that scales up to 35 degrees so what is the "panic" point?

I also had problems recently with boat right after I bought in December.  Ran fine then suddenly while docking (and I an't very experienced - first boat) no reverse.  I check at transmisson end and found everything was fine and cable was moving fine.  At transmission end.  I opened up pedistal (now that was interesting) and checked at that end.  Found shift lever to be binding a little (maybe a lot down the cable length).  I simply got can of teflon spray with long tube and forced teflon in to cable housing while working shifter back and forth (undo from transmisson to maximixe movement).  Gravitiy took care of rest.  Teflon went down cable and I thought I had a new transmission when it shifted.  So problem could just be simple lubricant.  Also go ahead and do throttle while every thing is open.

Did not take ANYTHING lose within pedistal.

good luck.

I am planning to do same in near future.  Point to note, the upgrade price DOES NOT include the furling single line.  That is an extra 100' line Hood sell for about $170 (I think, don't have info with me).  Also you have to consider the stanchion mount blocks for the single line.  I don't recommend the Hood stuff simply because as you may know the double line blocks you have are filled with friction.  There are other alternatives available since you will only need a single block but figure on another $175 for a kit.

Now you have spent $1000 but that is still significanly cheaper than going to a better brand system for $2500 to $3500!

Personally, being a new owner and first boat, I have enjoyed this thread of conversation as it has made me aware that I needed to follow-up on my batteries, consider the type and usage, and most importanly, determined that the charger on my boat is obsolete, will not perform these processes, doesn't do a proper job keeping the system charged adequately, is not documented anywhare, and cannot be repaired.  I am buying a new TrueCharge 40+ before I have a major (and expensive) problem.  Pay me now or mortgage me later!

[This message was edited by Jim Price, #1119, "Lady Di" on May 10, 2002 at 08:39 AM.]

Just received two new Loos guages, PT-2 for 1/4" wire and the PT-3 for the 5/16" wire.  Was pleasently surprised to find the PT-3 has been upgraded (with new sticker on old box) to include 1/4" wire.  Now you can have both in one single guage!  No more two guagers!  The supplier (SailNet) did not know the guages had been upgraded; just came in that way. (They refunded my money on the PT-2)

And thanks to Ken Morton for his tension info!  My backstay bridel was 550# UNDER tensioned on each side!

I would like to get a copy of the chart used to tune the rigging but cannot email Ken Morton using the profile address.  Does any one have the chart or know the new email address for K Morton?