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I placed mine on dry and they  have has been working for over 6 years with two impeller / gasket changes during that time with no leaks ever.

Was looking for something else today on the Davis light website (www.davisnet.com) and noticed that they have marked all their LED cluster bulbs and cord set as "discontinuted".  Not sure what this is all about or how long this has been the case.  Don't know if they just did not sell enough or if thier versions were poor performers ????   

I don't remember the exact dementions for the remote panel - the documentation that came with my +20 does not list it either - but is it is around 4" to 5" square and may be 1" thick - just guessing. 

I mounted mine on the hull trim above the nav table (on the radio shelf).  I did not want to cut any more holes so I made a simple wood frame from oak (like a picture frame) and mounted the panel in the frame and used velcro strips to attach the wood frame to hull liner trim.  It has been in place for 4 years and looks like it is part of ash panel.  Wires run out to side but are behind the VHF so no one sees them - used hole in shelf for VHF wires to run panel wire under sole to batteries .

Since marina wiring is not always perfect, you could try same testing routines suggested but by moving your boat (when you get back in water) to differnt slip, preferably one not anywhere near your current slip or neighbors boats or on same dock if possible.  You could have faulty service at your slip / dock.

John, you might want to search the board first.  There have been many threads on leaking ports.  Not sure of your port brand, but most of the older boats (mine is a 1991) solved the leaking port issue with just replacing the rubber o-rings in the locking handles.  The rubber gets compressed over time and the handle does not really draw the port up to the gasket as tight as you would think.  Mine were flat, not round after about 12 years.  Never a drop leaked since replacing the o-rings.  Much easier and cheaper thatn attempting to do the port gaskets.

I removed the spyder from the original table and permantly moiunted on the new smaller table I built.  I store the larger table against the aft bulkhead and only use for bedding.  I simply unlock and reomve the small table, push the column down, and slide the large table into place for the bed cushions.  We easly handle 4 floks around the smaller table and never use the large table any longer except for the bed platform.

I have a "standard" Kappa main and the added roach is unbelievable!  I does clear the backstay (just barely) but the performance and handling is greatly improved.  I don't fight the wheel all  the time.  I am not an expert sailor by any means but the cut and performance has made me a much better sailor.

As for Clarke, he personally handled the order and all the questions I had, even suggesting using a different type of slide arrangement due the the age of my mast and the friction in the track.  Helped tremendously.  Also did the same for replacing the rope on the foot with slides - I never could use the outhaul at all before.  Little things make a big difference.

And finally, customer service.  Shortly after I received the main sail, (I had a block rig with SS ring on other side of grommet for single line reef setup) we had a hard wind day and I was reefed (and slack sail tied up) when the force actually pulled the SS ring through the grommet (trust me, the SS ring was bigger!!) WITHOUT doing anything to the grommet.  The result was a sail with reefing line unattached and with the sail being tied down, all that pressure went to the tie eyes and started to tear.  Ripped pretty good before I could dump.  Kappa had me ship sail back, they repaired ($290 total) and if I did not point out where they did the work, you would never notice.  Clarke worked with me on understanding what he was going to do and why so as to not change the shape or performance of the sail.

Yea, I am biased    (Also, I still use single line reef but went back to line through the grommet around the boom and eliminated the block on the sail.  The friction I was trying to eliminate was done away with the new sail shape and quality anyway.)

Our Fleet 13 worked the Atlanta Boat show this weekend with Dunbar Sales( St. Simons GA) and we had a lot of discussion about the the 375 and the new 350.  The 350 has undergone some change to reduce the "boxy" look and I admit it looks much better.  Based on your photos and our dealer comment, the 350 and 375 share a lot of design - notably the new pedestal console, both traveler lines on port side, shear lines, window structure, and the LACK of overhead grab rails (you gotta have some real long arms when you go below).  They said short people could not reach them anyway - well we ain't all short!!!

The Atlanta show price for Spring deliver was about $202,000 - that is with full canvas, 2nd refrigerator, ST-6000 and full instruments, air, etc, and the most expensive entertainment systems you could ever buy, the 19" LCD = $1,900; Jensen stereo . CD + Bose speakers = $2,400.  Also, there was a $1,600 charge for wing keel - funny, I always thought the boats came with keels???  Any way the boat dressed out at around $216-$217 before show discounts.

One customer was interested in the 375 because there was only a $15,000 difference in the base prices of the 350 & 375.  Interstingly, his main concern was mast hight due to his location.  Catalina did not have that info yet but guess was between 52' for 350 and 56' for 387.

One fact that was published for the 375 was Hull Speed of 7.86 knots.  She is a big one....

Refer to my comments about the twist.  Never had a problem since I did this. 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3630.0

One question and a 1000 answers.  Mine is tied into the Accessory breaker on the panel.  I know because my cell phone would not charge recently even though DC was on.  If I had been listening to the XM satellite radio, I would have never know it as that is what I thought was the only item on that breaker.   

I have cleaned old sails a couple of ways.  One was to lay out the sail on smooth surface and scrub with a soft bristle "floor" brush using diluted bleach to clean and kill mildew and fungus.  I rinsed repeatedly with hose and hung sail from couple of trees (neighbors thought I was Crazy) to do more rinsing and let it dry.  Best to do this on sunny hot day so the mild bleach will have best affect.

The other way I did the last cleaning was to use same cleaning agent but applied with pressure washer on low / low medium setting to clean and rinse.  Was much faster and rinsing was much more thorough.

Again this was with old sails and I had nothing to lose.  By the way, the last cleaning I did on the head sail with the pressure washer method was 3 years ago and it is still flying - and the sail is 15 years old and in pretty good shape!!

This may not be the preferred way to clean but again with old sails, it has worked just fine for me.  Just don't over work the stitches.

Oh, final thought, don't use cleaning services - did the mainsail and it shrunk about one foot on the foot and leach.  Still used it another 3 years before replacing with new Kappa main.

Could you guys post some photos of these rigs.  Multiple close ups of all the points would be great.  This seems like something that would be good for the projects page so we don't have to "re-invent the wheel'.

Rocco, what kind of money are talking about?  The system components separate from the Kappa install bill.  I have a main from Kappa and is this someting you could do yourslef - meaning the slides and and batten attachments, etc.

I would call Catalina first.  I know of 2-3 boats in the 2005 range that had their voids repaired by Catalina just this year.  As stated, if the factory had a problem, then you should be able to get them to do the work for you.  May take a while for them to get to your area but worth the try.

I disconnected the wiring from the macerator motor - easy to see they go nowhere.  Pluged the output line from the macerator (input from tank still connected so ues secure plug).  I use the secock for the input to my Mermaid heat/air sytem.  I ran the line from seacock to bilge where I placed the sea strainer and then on to mermaid system water pump.  Makes cleaning the strainer real easy plus any stainer leaks are in bilge if problem occurs.