Topics

This may have been reviewed before but since search is not working I will ask.  Has anyone replaced manual head with electric on 1991 series boat.  Seen several on Mk II but I think the hull slope and foot print are different.  I want to do "drop in" replacement on existing bolts without a lot of fabrication work.  On the lake, using holding tank only, either current sea water inlet or water tank fed set up.  Waste line currently goes off bow side of toilet through wet locker to holding tank. Looking for experience, brand, model, effort etc.    thanks

I cannot seem to find an easy way to do a change of address so the organization has my new address and I don't miss any Mainsheet issues.

Help!!

Was looking for something else today on the Davis light website (www.davisnet.com) and noticed that they have marked all their LED cluster bulbs and cord set as "discontinuted".  Not sure what this is all about or how long this has been the case.  Don't know if they just did not sell enough or if thier versions were poor performers ????   

Friend of mine is a surveyor here in the Southeast and just returned from "corrosion school".  He has an older Allied Princess 36 he is rebuilding for offshore.  Intersting info about corrosion and zincs.

"Just back from Jacksonville where I took a metal corrosion course.  It was quite informative & required studying 4-5 hours every day after class.  Won't know if I passed the certification test for a couple of weeks.  It was an intense course with a lot of information. 

We usually only think of corrosion in salt water, but there is a lot of "stray current" corrosion in fresh water.  Float switches and bilge pumps are a major source of stray current as are heat & AC pumps.  The brushes are carbon & the dust accumulates around the SS shaft then they leak DC current into the bilge water and through the ground wires. 

Also, the zinc anodes are worthless in fresh water.  They "go to sleep".  Aluminum is the answer, it's lighter, more active and lasts longer.  It can also be used in salt water.   NEVER use magnesium as it is so active it will cause the paint to bubble & peal off the boat.  It also should not be used unless the water is free from polutants.  The PH needs to be about 7 for them to work properly.  I have seen so many zincs during my surveys and never realized they were worthless on the lake. 

It has convinced me to install a galvanic isolator on our boat & put all new bonding wires on the metal fittings.  A perfect time since we are in the tear it apart stage & can access everything.  Check out the galvanic isolator that was recommended in the class.

http://www.dairyland.com/index.php?page=products_mgi  "


Just thought I would share his opinion and insight.

I am looking for parts / alternative parts supply for a "finger latch" on one of my access doors.  These are the latches that you have the hole in the door and you place your finger inside to release.  It seems the little spring is broken and the latch will not set.  I did quick search in board and did not find any hits on subject.

Does any one have a solution  / location for replacements.  I assume you can get from hardware supplier but not sure how to narrow down choice / description.  I have not called Catalina - looking for quicker solution.

Latches are MkI series - 1991.

Test posting.  Even my internet spell checker still interfaces with the new forum.   

Just received this product update today from Sailors Solutions.  

I am not endorsing, just posting for others to review.  If it works as advertised, may provide a convenient method of sealing contacts; especially in "hard to get to" areas.  Looks like something you could even spray on all the connections behind the panel for example.

http://www.sailorssolutions.com/master.asp?page=ShowProduct&Item=SH01

Hopefully I inserted the link correctly.

If anyone has any experience with this, let us know.  We always need to know if it is good or bad.

By the way, if you watch the video on the link page, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME !!!

This popped up today from Sailors Solution.  I am not endorsing (I have  used Lanocote in the past) but thought it might be another alternative.  
http://www.sailorssolutions.com/master.asp?page=ShowProduct&Item=TG01

Quick question. I am not in town and about to order stanchion blocks for outside furling line but don't know if we have 1" or 1 1/4" stanchions.  I am having a brain void.  Boat is 1991 Mark I.  A little enlightenment please. :confused:

I am looking for a little one-on-one chat with someone who has actually completed the replacement of the continious line furling drum for the new single line Hood 915 series drum.  I will be happy to later provide info / experiences for site with photos, etc.  I plan to replace later this summer when I schedule a bottom job but would like to go thru every thing in detail berfore.  Just respond here or send me your email address direct to jprice1645@mindspring.com.  :rolleyes:

Does any one know the dementions of the pedistal wheel for 91 / MK I?  I want to order leather kit for wheel and am out of town at the time.  Trying to save time.

A friend of mine with a Cape Dory 25XP sent me this he found on a C36.  Looks pretty neat.  Documentation and photos are very good.  Site has some other well documented upgrades that can work on our boats.http://home.maine.rr.com/halekai/pcv___air_filter.htm

I am exploring adding an asymetical spinnaker to the inventory (Inland lake).  I want to fly the spinnaker from the furler and not deal with a pole.  I would like to hear what brands, etc. others have and their opinion.  Trying to narrow field of sailmakers without spending a ton of money - but still want something that can run 60 - 160 degree range. Light but broad range degrees and wind speed.  What is your opinion??

I am in process if re-bedding the shroud chainplates.  I don't have any problems but do have aquestion on how tight should the rod bolts (the one on the end of rod inside the hull)be torqued.  This is the final step after the T-Plate and thru bolts seal has cured before I tension the shrouds.  Any ideas as to how tight for the rod bolt?? :confused:

:(I received a letter notifying me that Blue Seas is recalling all of their T-1 type cicuit breakers.  I added one for my windless last year and guess I registered for the warrenty.  They will replace at no charge with  "slightly" different type / style.  You can get replacement from their web sitewww.bluesea.com.  The T-1 breaker could cause a fire if tripped and contacts weld together.  
Apparetly it does not matter if breakers were on new boat or added later.  You will have to get the Part Number and Serial Number from the breaker(s)itself to enter into the replacemnt request form.  I had to pull mine to read the numbers but avoiding a problem is worth the effort.

My water pump has started to breifly cycle when no water is in use.  Looked for leaks and found water accumulated on hot water tank shelf.  Appears that water is coming from either one or both engine water line connection points.  Water is clear (potable) so does not seem to be from leaky clamps (tight, not antifreez - green).  Very slow leak semms to be coming from INSIDE or AROUND fitting tube from tank (back side).  That could expain breif pressure drops, thus pump cycles.  Question, before I start taking everything out, has anyone had this type leak before? Is it repairable on the Seward tank side?  If so how, etc.  Or does this mean a new tank? I can see that I will need to replace or repair the shelf due to the water accumulation but trying to have a better game plan.

I know this will be a can of worms but, anyway, what are your opinions on drilling holes in the spreaders?  I want to attach a micro block on each side for pennant halyards.  Around my sailing club I have been getting a lot of ideas.  Some say never put holes in spreaders, just creating points of potential stress failures.  These people wire tie / wrap blocks to the spreaders to avoid holes.  Others say they just drilled the spreaders and pop rivited the eyes to the spreader.  I know many of you have all sorts of stuff hanging off the spreaders and mast.  Opinions??  Or should I just rivet eyes to side of mast below the spreaders for the blocks and move on?

Being new to sailing, I am still trying to understand what the "reasonable" heel angle window is for the C34.  I am on an inland lake but still get very strong winds and gusts.  Sometimes the boat feels like it is going over too far but I know that is my inexperience.  At what angle am I getting myself into real trouble.  I can always point up to bail out quickly but I don't want to be premature.  I hear about people "burying the rail" but in lake environment, that seems like a lot of freebaord to overcome and still survive.  I can understand in rolling seas how you could do that at much less angle.

So what is the opinion?  I have a clinometer that scales up to 35 degrees so what is the "panic" point?

Just received two new Loos guages, PT-2 for 1/4" wire and the PT-3 for the 5/16" wire.  Was pleasently surprised to find the PT-3 has been upgraded (with new sticker on old box) to include 1/4" wire.  Now you can have both in one single guage!  No more two guagers!  The supplier (SailNet) did not know the guages had been upgraded; just came in that way. (They refunded my money on the PT-2)

And thanks to Ken Morton for his tension info!  My backstay bridel was 550# UNDER tensioned on each side!