Messages

Mike:

Here is the correct address    http://www.pyacht.net/.

George:

Welcome to the fun world.  I used 3/8" Sta-set X with a 2:1 block system for the tack.  I moved the boomvang from the inboard starboard stopper to a jam cleat on the cabin top and used that stopper for the tack â€" easier to get at and the cabin top winch can be used if needed to adjust the tack. I used 7/16" Sta-set for the sheets.  One idea - If you have not replaced your halyards as yet, replace them with low stretch T-900 and use the old halyards for spinnaker sheets.

Enjoy!

l

Mine is in the compartment in front of the holding tank on the starboard side - never had a problem with it..

I used the bale on the anchor roller for some time (2 years) until I got the tack line tangle in the furling roller. The bowsprit that I added is only as long as the anchor roller but it is much lower to allow the tack line runs under the furling drum.   Joe:   Some place on the C34 web site there is a write up on how to use the anchor roller to hold a short spinnaker pole â€" a search will probably find it for you.

Ray

Ted is correct unless the sail was cut to fly on a bowsprit pole using one would just complicate your life without any gains.  I have added a 12" long stainless steel "bowsprit" attached to the head stay anchor points to get the tack point lower.  This allows the adjustable tack line to run under the headsail-furling drum and hence out of the way.  

Have fun with your new toy!

Ray

This puzzle is finally solved.  The Catalina engine control panel has "red" lights across both the water alarm and the oil alarm buzzers.  With both of these connected, the lights will come on but the alarm will not sound.  With the one light disconnected (does not matter which one) the alarm would sound.   The solution is Crews Nest now has two separate buzzers â€" one for low oil pressure and one for high water temperature.  I come away from the probelm with a great deal of knowing about this all works.

Ron, thank you.  GMTA as I arrived at the same conclusion earlier this week â€" replace this mess with something simple and failsafe.  I have the as designed circuit diagrams, have a few design ideas for the wiring, and have all the necessary parts.  The actually implementation will depend on how the circuits are implemented which wires are easiest to get to.

After numerous e-mails with Joe Joyce, I understand this problem a lot more but have no solution as yet. The problem revolves around how the "ground" circuit on the alarm buzzer ("P" terminal) works when there is no oil pressure (alarm switch is open).  When the alarm switch is closed, there are 12VDC on both the "+" and "P" terminals of the buzzer and it does not sound.  When the switch is open, there is still 12VDC at the "+" terminal (come from the key switch on my boat) but the "P" terminal attempts to find ground through the lift pump/preheat solenoid circuits.  The problem is there is too much resistance (945 ohms) in this ground circuit (outside of the alarm buzzer), and the voltage across the alarm buzzer never get above 4 volts on my boat â€" hence no alarm.  This all appears to be a little complex and the oil pressure alarm is not fail safe.

I believe that the circuit is this way so that the lift pump stops when the oil alarm switch opens.   The alarm should not sound when the engine has oil pressure or the key switch is in the pre-heat position.  

Has anybody had a similar problem?   If so how did you fixed it?

Thank you.
?

The oil pressure alarm does not sound when the key it turned on.  My boat is a MKII #1383 with the Universal 35HP motor.  This problem has been intermittent for some time but now has gone hard not working.

A. The red oil pressure alarm light comes on and then goes off when the engine is started.  The means to me the alarm sensing unit is AOK.

B. I replaced the alarm unit with the loudest one Radio Shack had â€" know no oil pressure is bad news.

C. I measured the voltage across the alarm when the motor was not running with the key turned on and found it was less than 4Volts.  The label on the alarm takes more than 4.2 Volts to work.  I would have assumed this would be closer to 12V.

D. Unlike to water temp alarm, which just grounds the negative side of the alarm to activate it, the oil pressure alarm is some how involved with the lift pump and the pre-heat circuit.  Does anybody know:

1. How the circuit works?   I gather it is to shut off the pre-heat and the lift pump once the engine has oil pressure.

2. Where the 10A circuit breaker should in the circuit is located. I can find the main 20A breaker but not the 10A breaker in this circuit.

E. The Oil pressure is AOK when the engine is running â€" yes, I do have an oil pressure gauge.

Questions:

A. Do I need a special alarm unit that work with a lower voltages
B. Could something else in the circuit be broken?

Thank you for your help.
ˇ

George:

Yes, it is the same situation with Crew’s Nest â€" it fits but only just. I concluded the close up under the trash shelf was better because the trash shelf provided some protection.  As I said before make sure you tape over the switches once you have them set.

Ray

George:

Welcome to the club.  Mine went last year and took the batteries with it â€" expensive failure indeed.   I have installed a Truecharge 20 in the same location â€" under the trash can.   Yes, it is a tight fit but worth the effort to same space in other areas.   One note, once you have sent the battery type and temperature switches, tape them over so that do not get bumped and moved to some other setting.

If you do a search on "max prop" on this forum, you will find a good deal of discussion and more than a few comments and suggestions.

Raya

One thing you should note is that the 3 or 4 instrument NavPod that comes with a C34 from Catalina is an OEM version (at least on my boat with ST50  instruments) which is a different width than one you will get directly from NavPod today.    just my 2 centss

Winter is the time to do some local looking around as many of the sail makers are not that busy and will give you a good deal.  They will give you better service when you need it and may even sail with you to show you how their particular sails are set etc.  Many of the discount people are not great on the service side.  

Also a serach of the forum will give you a good number of comments and suggestions

Ray
a

Alex: If you send me you e-mail address, I will sent you a copy the Company alert on this
 problem. I just did the change to my C34 #1383 today.

The guy to e-mail at the factory is:

Tom Herrmann <THerrmann@Westerbeke.com>

He got me the parts for the ECO

Sorry to hear of your problem.