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Messages - Roc

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Main Message Board / Re: Removing engine covers - Mk 2
« on: January 22, 2019, 09:46:28 AM »
The 3 screws in your picture, remove them along with the ones on the other side.  I know the moldings get in the way, but I take one side (left or right) first, keeping the other side stationary.  Once one side passes the molding, then the whole panel can come out.  I never did this, but maybe in your case you may.  Once you get it out, you may want to sand one side to reduce the width of the panel, so next time, it's easier to remove.  I've taken this off a number of times.  Agree, it doesn't just pull out, but if you angle one side first, then the other, it can be removed.  Don't tilt the top forward, just pull one side first (you may want to slide it towards the side that's stationary, in order to clear the molding), then pull the other side out.

Main Message Board / Re: Removing engine covers - Mk 2
« on: January 10, 2019, 04:10:17 AM »
For the panel that is behind the companionway steps (panel that has the swing out door to access front of engine), there are screws along both sides.   Take those out and the panel will come out.  You may need to take one side out first then coax the other side.  Mine is a tight fit and it doesn't just pull out straight.  With that front panel out, and the hinged cover below the top steps opened up, you get good access to just about the whole front, top and sides of the engine.  In the aft cabin, the panel that sits below the hinged cover can come out.  You will need to look inside at the braces and take out the screws holding the panel.  There are screws that hold the brace to the fiberglass and screws that hold the panel.  What I did was put screws with finish washers right through the panel front into the braces behind.  This is on both sides of the panel. Yes, you see the screws, whereas originally, they are hidden behind.  But it's much easier now to take the panel off to get good access to the rear of the engine.  Also, the screws with finish washers are no different than many other interior wood fixtures throughout the boat.

Main Message Board / Re: Propeller reconditioning
« on: January 08, 2019, 04:16:03 AM »
I have found that not too many shops use Prop Scan.  There might not be any in Rhode Island.  You may need to ship it to whatever closest one you find.  That's what I did.  Shipping the prop is not that expensive.

Main Message Board / Re: Catalina 315 as a replacement to 34?
« on: December 03, 2018, 10:12:37 AM »
I'm sure Stu's layout is accurate, but I'm thinking the 309 came after the 310.  Reason why, I know a couple that bought a 310 the same time as we bought our C34 (year 2000).  It was after that I noticed the 310 to disappear, replaced by the 309, which seemed like a similar boat in many respects, but the name sounded like a "smaller" boat (30ft vs "31").  The 310 was a model in the same mix as the 320, 380 and other "0" boats...

Main Message Board / Re: Catalina 315 as a replacement to 34?
« on: November 30, 2018, 07:13:02 AM »
Catalina has been around the block with boats in the 30ft range.  They had the 310, 309, 315 and probably others that I can't think of since there were so many.  But they're all C30's and from actually sailing on them, they are pretty much the same.  Not sure why Catalina keeps doing this, but it makes it seem that they don't really have any plans moving forward. They take the same boat and then call it something else.  From what I notice, they are all nice boats and sail well with solid Catalina quality.  But yes, they are all 30ft boats for all intents and purposes.

Main Message Board / Re: Bow-sprit installation
« on: November 30, 2018, 04:49:19 AM »
I made a permanently mounted bow-sprit.  Bolted on the stem head.  Picture is WIP shot, and the other has the anchor in the way, but I think you can get the gist.

Main Message Board / Re: Winter Sailing
« on: November 28, 2018, 10:12:07 AM »
Are you sure you want to be out on the water in the winter?  Wind chill and cold water spraying at you does not sound like fun.  If you have the urge to sail over the winter, go on a BVI charter! 

Main Message Board / Re: Mk II oil pressure alarm
« on: November 13, 2018, 03:53:07 AM »
My alarm does the same thing. Been like that for almost 20 years.  Not always, but sometimes at the first position, no alarm.  Move key up to engage glow plugs, then back down, and alarm sounds.  Sometimes alarm sounds at first position as it should.  Sometimes I need to engage glow plug position more than once and alarm will sound in first position.  It's just random.  Sometimes when engine is shut down, alarm sounds, sometimes it doesn't.....  Also, sometimes when running in gear at low RPM (~1200 or so), alarm chirps.  Increase RPM, chirp goes away.

Main Message Board / Re: blower vent cowl's
« on: November 05, 2018, 05:27:55 AM »
mdid:  Did you go to the place in Asbury Park?  Wondering what the fee is....

Main Message Board / Re: Instruments - not recognizing speed
« on: October 26, 2018, 09:41:58 AM »
My paddle wheel will foul up just enough in a couple weeks to make it inoperable.  I got tired of always pulling it out and cleaning it, so I just keep the plug in.  I've been waiting for the price to come down on the speed transducers that monitor speed without the paddle wheel, but last time I looked, those transducers are several hundred dollars.

Main Message Board / Re: Water heater inlet hose popping off
« on: October 25, 2018, 09:48:53 AM »
Hi Mainesail,
Any possibility of posting pictures of your mixing valve and ss hose bypass?  From what I gather, the mixing valve is at the hot water output, where cold water is mixed to bring temperatures to safe levels?

Main Message Board / Re: Furling line blocks and fairleads suggestions?
« on: October 22, 2018, 04:29:19 AM »
Looks like they updated their website. It's the foot block with clutch

Main Message Board / Re: blower vent cowl's
« on: October 18, 2018, 05:02:30 AM »
I'm in NJ and would like to do the same thing!  I understand, however, that to re-chrome something is very expensive.  Probably several hundred to do those two little cowl vents.  I never investigated it but would be interested in what you find.

Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal and engine movement
« on: October 18, 2018, 04:56:25 AM »
Hi John
PYI also told me if burping didn't clear any debris, you can use fine sandpaper, 400-600 grit.  What I do is fold it in half and place it between the carbon ring and ss rotor.  Spin the shaft so the rotor spins against the sandpaper.  this cleans the rotor surface.  Then move the sandpaper around to clean the stationary carbon ring. 

Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal and engine movement
« on: October 17, 2018, 08:18:47 AM »
There could have been some debris between the carbon and SS surfaces.  That will not give good contact.  Burping it would clear that up.

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