Messages

Alan,
Get a water soluable marker and draw a line around the perimeter of the bilge.  The area where water enters will smear the mark.  Maybe this can help you narrow down what area the water is coming from.
Roc-

To winterize my engine, I unhook the intake hose from the seacock and place it into a 5 gal bucket filled with fresh water.  I let this pump through for a few minutes (adding water to the bucket with a garden hose).  I then put non-tox anti freeze into the bucket and do the same.  I guess if you wanted to flush with fresh water on an on-going basis, you could put a y-valve right after the seacock with a hose attached.  Close the seacock, and open the y-valve and place that hose into a bucket of fresh water.  This will let your engine suck the water out of the bucket.  The drawback on this is you will have a coupling with a valve, some estra clamps, and an open hose right after your intake seacock.  An additional break in the hose and just another place in the system to fail.  Just a thought.

Roc-

That noise you are hearing is because the blades are 'too sharp'.  Have a prop shop dull the ends of the blades.

Roc-

I would suggest a stainless steel shaft.  Bronze does tend to 'whip', because it is softer.  While you're at it, look into a flexible coupling.  I have both the ss shaft and flex coupling and highly recommend them.

Roc-

I used to have a Precision 23 and I installed a Standard Ds40 (I think that was the model)depth sounder.  Standard told me they had three types of transducers. Aft mounted (like what is on power boats mounted on a bracket off the stern), another that is mounted in a hole in the figerglass, and (this is the one I installed) a transducer that shoots 'through' the fiberglass by being mounted inside the boat.  I installed this 'puck-looking' transducer by using marine tex to bond it to the hull.  Standard told me the only drawback by shooting through the hull is that you limit the maximum range from 250 ft. to about 150 ft.  The minimum range of 2.5 ft. stays the same.  I have to say that I had that depth sounder for 4 years and it never gave me false readings.  The shallow readings were not compromised.

To Rodney.  I don't know what type of depth sounder you have, but my Raytheon ST-60 (again, I think that's the model, or it may be ST-50) did exactly what you mention.  Saying I was in 2 feet of water when I actually was in 60 feet.   I called Raytheon and they told me that their program version was bad (I verified I had the version they mentioned, you do this by pressing a sequence on the buttons).  Anyway, they sent me a new head unit (transducer was good), I swapped it out on the pedestal and now everything works fine.  This happened after the unit was working correct, then it started giving me weird readings.  This was a new boat and all electronics came from the factory.  

About location, my C34 has both the knot wheel and depth transducer located under the v-berth, on either side of the centerline of the hull.  I understand that these units are mounted forward of the keel so not to be in the wake of the water passing from the keel which would affect the readings.  Also, the depth transducer is giving readings before your keel could hit the shallow water (granted it's only a few feet ahead and you would have to be going VERY slow to use that as an advantage).

Roc-

Goes something like this: The difficulty in docking is directly proportional to the number of people watching.  

Roc-

My guess would be to try wet sanding with very fine grit sandpaper.  Probably 1500 to 2000 grit.  You can find this in auto parts stores.  Start with 220, 400 grit, then keep moving up to the finer types.  The other option would be to brush on a layer of gelcoat, and polish that up.  

Roc-

Would appreciate tips on the best/easiest way to clean the crud off the prop and shaft.  Everything was power washed when the boat was hauled in the fall, so all the barnicles are off.  What's left is a grimey coating. I used metal cleaner and a rough scotch brite pad, but my elbow doesn't have enough grease.  Would a coarse steel wool work better?  Shaft is stainless and prop is bronze.

Thanks!
Roc-

I have a 2000 mkII and had a similar experience.  It was the hose that runs over the heat exchanger.  Apparently, one side couples to a 1-1/4" connection and the other couples to a 1-1/8" connection.  Both ends of the hose are of the smaller diameter, which when Universal attached it to the larger connection, it must have damaged the inner plys.  As a result, the hose was delaminating over time and anti-freeze would leak when the engine was running.  A mechanic replaced the hose, but it is a type that is more pliable.  It fits the larger connection perfectly, and the clamp is able to conform the hose to the smaller connection.  I've had no more leaks.  Run the engine and see if anti-freeze is coming from any of the two connections.

Roc-

Randy,
If you look at 'PROJECTS' on the C34 Homepage, you will see the inserts that I made to keep the sun out (also privacy for the v-berth).  I have lots of extra material left, so I can make them for you.  Let me know if you're interested.

Roc

Aaron,
When was the last time you re-built your head pump??  If it has been more than a couple/few years (or you never did), it sounds like it's time.  You can buy the kit from from B/US, WM or Defender (which is the cheapest).  It's not hard, takes about 2 hours if you never did it before.  The kit has all the rubber parts and other stuff that needs replacing. Make sure everything is rinsed out very well before you start (or put clothespin on nose).

Roc-

I have hull #1477 (2000 model) and mine does the same thing.  Soon after I bought the boat, I called Catalina and spoke to Gerry Douglas about it and he said it's normal.  It's cavitation as the stern is pushed hard to one side.  This usually happens when moving forward, in gear, with the rudder hard to port or SB.  Plus, the boat needs to be moving at quite a good pace.  In reality, how often is that the case, that's why I don't worry about it.  I also have a 3 blade fixed prop.  
Roc-

I've also read lots of stuff on folding/feathering props and their advantages on drag and the ability to back up straight.  But, so many times, I count on the prop walk to port to help me back into places.  More often than not I position myself to use prop walk.  Therefore, I'm not too sure it's an 'advantage' to give up prop walk.

Has anyone used the Loos gauge to tension the forestay?  With the extrusion for the furler in the way, how did you do it?  Also, what about the backstay, was the gauge set above the split?  Would appreciate the advice.
Thanks--
Roc-

I let the pump empty the tanks, and use a bulb siphon I bought at Walmart for about $2.00 to suck out the last bit of water our of each tank.  I drain the water heater by attaching a compressor hose to the inlet.  I disconnect the outlet and point it to a bucket.  The compressed air pushes all the water down and out of the tank.  I pour about a quart of non-toxic antifreeze into the outlet hose so just a little of it sits on the bottom just incase I didn't get every drop of water out.  Before running antifreeze through the tanks, connect the inlet hose and outlet hose together to bypass the hot water heater.  I pour a few gallons of pink antifreeze in each tank.  Starting with one tank, I open each faucet one at a time, both hot and cold separately to fill each line.  In the spring, I get the Walmart siphon and take out as much antifreeze out of the tanks as possible before filling with water and purging the system.  Doing this purges the system of antifreeze rather easily.