Messages

My engine serial number is before the E001 date.  However, when I took my water pump off, my cam shaft did already have the collar installed.  The only way you can make sure is if you pull the pump off and take a look...

Roc-

Mine has two set screws, both on the same side.

Roc-

Defrost setting on the microwave  

Roc-

I put a tee on my head sink drain, and connected my head intake hose to that. I close the sink drain seacock, fill the sink with water and flush.  This is easy to do because the sink drain and head intake are right next to each other.  To flush with sea water, just put the drain stopper in the sink and open the sink drain seacock.  The head intake hose will now draw water from the seacock.

Roc-

I forgot to mention, when you take the bolts out you need to drill out the hole a little bigger than original.  Then put in the epoxy.  After it sets, redrill the holes to the correct size.

Roc-

Andrew,
It seems like the wood is not binding with the bolt because the bolt chewed up the hole.  What you can do is take to bolts out and epoxy the holes closed.  Then redrill the holes and insert the bolts back in.  I would consult the 'West System', they have good instructions and many additives/fillers for specific types of jobs.  You can buy this stuff at WM or Boat/US.  You can call them and have them send you free literature on product uses.

westsystem.com

Roc-

I get Lanocote and a small brush.  Close the seacock so the ball is in view from under the boat.  Slop Lanocote on the ball, then go back in the boat and work the handle several times.  I do this to all the seacocks before launch.

Roc-

Paul,
You may want to 'warp' your way out, using your dock lines.  Tie a line on your starboard stern cleat which is connected to the dock piling on your SB side.  As you back out, pay out the line while keeping it taut.  This will stop the movement to port, and will help pivot the boat to SB.  You can loop the line off the piling such that when you get the boat angled (the bow pointed in the right direction), just let go of one end and pull it around the piling and back onto the boat.

Roc-

Paul,
Sounds like you need to rebuild your head.  The joker valve is probably worn and letting holding tank waste to back up in the head. You can get the kit from WM.  However, if your head needs more than a rebuild kit (about $40), you might want to think about getting a whole new head.  You can get them on sale for about $100.

Roc-

is that you don't purge the sea water inside the bowl.  That's where the critters die and stink.  By introducing fresh water into the inlet hose, all the sea water is purged out of the bowl.

Roc-

I re-plumbed my head intake to the head sink drain hose with a 'TEE'.  To flush with fresh water, I close the drain seacock and simply fill the sink with water.  When the head is pumped, it draws fresh water from the sink.  If I want to flush with sea water, open the seacock and put the sink strainer plug in.  Now the head will draw water from the seacock.  This is simple, only the cost of a nylon 'TEE' and a few extra hose clamps. What's nice about this is the original seacock used for the head intake is now used for the water intake for my air conditioning system.  I didn't have to cut another hole in my boat for my air conditioning.

Roc-

Actually I put in a little oregano, basil and a touch of garlic.  It really gives the water coming out of the exhaust a very fragrant aroma  

I think the instructor (Larry Berlin, you probably have heard of him) suggests olive oil because it is vegetable based and not petroleum based, therefore it will not harm the rubber. I don't know if any of you have taken the Yanmar seminar given by Mack Boring, but it is very informative.

A few years ago I went to a Yanmar Diesel seminar.  This is what the instructor said about raw water impellers.  If the impeller is inspected carefully, the vanes are moved back and forth and no cracks are noticed, you can continue to use it.  Over the winter, he suggests to remove it so the vanes don't stay bent and put it into a jar covering it with olive oil to keep it from drying out.  I have the one I used last season marinating in olive oil.  I figure I'll use it one more season.  I also keep a spare.

Roc-

Jon,
You are right about the clearance.  I originally asked the yard to install a Vetus coupling, but according to the specs, it wouldn't fit.  They suggested about this one.  I don't know where they got it from, but maybe you can search the web.  Also, in my email above, I have the contact info about the yard that sourced the coupling and did the installation.

Roc-

John,
I have a Federal Flexible coupling that looks like this (see link below).  Definitely worth the price.  It really helps dampen any vibrations.  Having something flexible between the gearbox and shaft just makes common sense because a boat is not a totally rigid structure.  I believe there is some movement, and something needs to give.  

Regards,
Roc-

http://c34.infopop.net/3/OpenTopic?a=tpc&s=508296417&f=318296417&m=9902993276&r=5482915276#5482915276