Topics

After only 6 seasons of use, the compressor on my Vector Compact is done.  Has anyone experienced this in such a short time and have they been able to salvage the unit by installing a new compressor.  The marina tells me the cost of replacing the compressor is right up there with the cost of a new unit, so might as well get the new unit, complete with warranty.  Would welcome any suggestions before I plunge into buying a new AC unit.

Thanks!!

Hello everyone,
I made a play pen/crib for the port side setee for my daughter.  She's now 4 and doesn't seem to need it.  It ended up being so useful and nice that I would like to give it to anyone that might need it for their child.  She used to nap or play in it while sailing and it is where she slept at night.  She was very well contained during any amount of heel.  She actually used to ask to go inside and thought it was fun, because it was her little fort area.  If anyone is interested, I can send it to them (just pay shipping), or if you are in the Rock Hall, MD area, I can install it on your boat (it's very easy, a few minutes at best).  It doesn't require any holes to be drilled into the boat.  It is supported by straps that attach to the grab rails.  It is held in place by the seat cushions.  One corner is disconnected and lowered so the child can be easily placed inside.  It collapses and rolls up for storage.  It matches the blue interior too!  It's made of blue canvas and netting.  Attached are a couple pictures, I hope they log in correctly. I have a MkII model, but don't know if the positioning of the attachments will work on the MkI.  I'm sure it could easily be modified

Howdy All,
I plan on changing out the cutless bearing (have access to the removal tool) and was wondering if I need to apply loc-tite (or something to that affect) on the set screws.  My thought is yes, but below the waterline, don't know if loc-tite will hold anyway.  Is just tightening them as much as possible all that is needed?

Thanks!!!

Wanted to get ideas on how others have dealt with hooking up items that need to always have power, like the radio memory, tank gauges, etc.  These need to be directly wired to the battery with fuses.  I have my radio memory and tank gauge hooked to the 1-2-all-off battery switch hot wire.  I have propane and CO detectors that I want to connect, but don't think connecting them to the same battery switch lead would be smart.

Other ideas are appreciated.
Thanks!!!

What's the concensus out there for the maintenance schedule for changing the engine coolant.  I changed mine 3-1/2 seasons ago usingExtended Life coolant.  I was thinking of changing it again, but was told I can go longer.  Any thoughts??

Wanted to throw this out to see if anyone has any issues I may not be seeing......on my MkII, the mainsheet is double ended, you can trim the sail from either side.  Now I believe that is good if you're racing, but for everyday crusing, it really doesn't seem to be of any use.  Right now, I use the Starboard side winch to both raise the main, and trim the sheet.  When raising the main, I need to stick the mainsheet into the jam cleat to make the winch available (which I always fear will come out and cause the boom to be left with no control...never did like that jam cleat), winch up the halyard, release the halyard from the winch and apply the line stopper, then wrap the mainsheet back on the winch for sail triming.  Lowering the sail requires the opposite process....

My thought would be to take the mainsheet and tie it off at the starboard side block, before it turns aft.  Then use the port winch, solely for sheet triming, and I can leave the starboard side winch only for using the halyard.  This would delete having to switch lines and using the jam cleat during the switching process. 

Any thoughts??

Thanks!!

Hello everyone,
I have a Standard Horizon RAM mike in the cockpit.  It was installed by the factory and had it on the boat since new.  Last season, I noticed that no one was able to hear my transmissions, although I'm able to receive.  I got rid of the FM/VHF splitter, and hooked the VHF directly to the antenna (I bought an $8 wire FM antenna for the radio instead).  I thought maybe the splitter was causing the issue.   But, still not working.  I did a radio check with my neighbor.  I can hear his transmission on the RAM mike, but when I talk, he gets no voice.  He does hear a 'click', as if something is coming through.  Also, on the LCD on the RAM, it's showing that I am transmitting (TX logo on the panel).  Also did a radio check on the main station in the cabin.  That works fine.  He was able to hear my transmission and I could receive.  So, my thought is maybe the microphone in the RAM mike is not working and that's why nobody can hear me. 

I called Standard Horizon about sending it back for service.  They said it's a flat $60 fee just to look at it.  They then told me that they have a surplus of the older style RAM's (mine is about 5 years old), and they sell them for $40 to people that call in with problems.  (FYI, the latest RAM mikes have a different connection that won't work with what's installed in my cockpit)

Just want to mention, I'm aware of the posting (forget where I read it) about the micro switch and the 'ribs' on the rubber cover that inhibit positive pressure.  I remember someone saying that they cut the two outermost ribs and that enabled the push to talk switch to engage positively.  During my radio checks with my neighbor, I squeezed really hard to make sure I was making contact.

Was wondering if anyone else had a similar problem.  Before I end up sending it in and paying the $40 for another mike, I will try to find someone else at my marina that I can hook up my mike to their connection just to rule out anything with the wiring on my boat.  Would appreciate any thoughts.....

Thanks!

Those of you that have a MKII may be able to give me your advice on this.  Port side of the water heater is the factory location for the two 4D batteries.  Starboard of the water heater there is a space that I am able to fit a battery box for a Group 24 starting battery.  My question is this...do you think the starting battery being too far outboard (not close to the centerline of the boat), might cause problems when the boat heels??  (i.e. water leaking out of the caps??).  I like this location because it is near the 4D's (easy checking) and wiring would be simple to modify.

Thanks!

Hello All....
Checked the shaft movement in the cutless bearing and found no movement from side to side.  I did find some movement, I would guess about 1/16" at the most, up and down.  Question is, how much movement is indicative of a cutless bearing needing replacement??  The current cutless bearing is 5 years old.  Is it odd to see movement in one direction and not the other? 

Thanks

Hello All,
During the last few outings, I seemed to notice that the transmission 'chatters' in the 1200-1500 rpm range.  I know that in gear, at idle, there will be damper plate chattering, and that's normal.  But it always seemed to disappear as soon as throttle was given.  I still notice that it does disappear as usual upon increase of throttle from idle, but now I hear a faint chattering in the 1200-1500 rpm range, then it goes away after that.  The engine has 587 hours.

Any thoughts?  Does the damper plate need to be adjusted, and if so, how big of a job is that??

Thanks!!!

I was thinking about increasing my amp hours by connecting additional batteries to my already new 4D's.  What I want to do is keep the set up as it stands, and connect another battery to each of the existing 4D's, making each bank larger.  I like the way the system is set up now (to me it's very simple), as what I do is flip-flop between banks on any given day.  I don't want to get into a whole project of adding starting batteries and major rewiring, etc.  I'll have to take some measurements, but figured I could fit a Group 27 (or something that would fit in the space) on the starboard side, outboard of the water heater, and put another one in the storage lazarette under the center seat at the dinette table.  I could use the largest wires (2AWG) and I wouldn't think the runs would be longer than 2 or 3 feet.  I figure the largest wire wouldn't give me any appreciable voltage drop.

But I was reading Jim Moe's write up on electrical upgrades, and he says you must combine same type batteries (I understand that), must be of same manufacturer and relative age (I get that too), but what I don't understand is that he suggests they need to be the same size??  For example, I couldn't parallel a Group 24, 27, or 31 with a 4D??  Only (2) 4D's can be mated together??  My thought is I could beef up each current bank by putting another battery (similar type, make, but different size to fit location) in parallel with each 4D, thus increasing the amp hours....???

Thanks!!

For those that have noticed water collecting in the bilge area under the V-Berth (in my case with no limber hole), I found out where my leak is coming from.  In this area, I have the knot meter and depth sounder mounted through the hull.  

I've been noticing a few cups of water in that area.  It looked like 'fresh' water, so I figured either the water tank was leaking or rain water was finding its way in.  After checking that the water tank was intact, I sprayed the anchor roller with a hose to see if the bolts may be leaking.  I opened up the inspection port mounted inside the anchor locker, just below the roller.  The bolts were dry, but I did notice water running down some wiring in that area.  Well, I saw that the wires were stabilized by a wire tie that was screwed to the underside of the deck, right near the backing plate for the anchor roller.  There was water coming from this screw in the wire tie.  Apparently, the factory tied the bow light wires together and attached the tie to the fiberlass with a screw, which was too long.  The screw is below the anchor roller, so you can't see it protruding out.  The screw hits the anchor roller from the underside.

So if you see water in your forward bilge area, check to see if the wires below the anchor roller are tied and attached to the fiberlass with a screw.  That screw my be where the water is entering.

I don't have any experience with a ratchet block and I'm thinking about using one on my furling line to help when reefing.  Question I have is this, does the block hold all the opposing force on the line, or does the block just add friction when the ratchet mode is engaged which still lets the line slip out slowly.  Are the 'teeth' in the sheeves supposed to grab the line and not let it slip out in the opposite direction that you are trying to pull?  Kind of like how a self tailing winch works.....

Thanks!!

I've come to the conclusion that the smell of diesel fuel I notice is due to the odor that is imbedded (saturated) within the walls of the plastic fuel tank.  The odor is not of 'combusted' fuel, i.e. exhaust.  There are no exhaust leaks detected.  After motoring, the engine bay does not smell at all.  What smells is the aft cabin and aft storage lockers of diesel fuel.  Pulled the panels out of the aft cabin and no leaks are found on the tank or fittings.  However, the tank walls had a very strong fuel odor.  The odor is most apparent after a re-fuel or when the boat bounces around under sail, a result of fuel sloshing around the tank.  Never noticed this the first couple of years with the boat, probably because it took time for the plastic tank to get saturated with the odor.  Has anyone noticed this??  I'm thinking that Catalina may have had a poor batch of fuel tanks, sub-par resins used for diesel fuel containment??

Roc : Here's a copy of the message to you that bounced:

Roc : Guess that Black Dog must have enough business from the Big Power Boat BENT Props, so they don't need us anymore.  Good info to know, but too bad as they do a better job than a regular Prop Shop.  Yes, I had mine done there and wrote a Mainsheet article on BlackDog.  I'm sure that you'll be happy with the job that they did.  Hope that you repitched yours up from 9" (if you have a 3 bladed).  I repitched mine to 11" with my 23hp engine - and glad that I did.

As far as a block of wood between the prop and the hull - that's crazy as you don't need to put the prop on that tight and you could easily bend a blade!!!  
I hold one of the blades in one hand and snug the castellated nut on with a wrench until it's tight and the hole line up with one of the slots in the nut head.  Then insert the cotter key cutting one leg short and bending the other leg over in a loop.  Just make sure that you've lined the prop shaft and the inside of the prop with water proof/resistant grease.  
That way the prop will slide up in the keyway when you tighten the nut and it'll be easy to remove at some future date(without a prop puller!!).    Ron

-------- Original Message -----
From: Palaia, Rocco [CPCUS]
To: (1) Ron & Phyllis Hill  
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 2:52 PM
Subject: Black Dog Prop suggestion


Hello Ron,
I just got my propeller back from Black Dog propeller.  By the way, did you know that they don't do small propellers anymore.  They did mine out of courtesy since they had some extra time.  They said it's been over three years since they did a propeller that small..........

Anyway, they suggest not using a wood block to jam between the hull and blade when tightening the nut.  I think you had your prop done by Black Dog, and if so, what did you do to tighten up the nut with enough torque??  Did you use a wood block??

Thanks for the advice.

Take care,
Roc-

I posted this 8 position circuit breaker for sale in the Market Place section of this website.  Please see topic for details.  Contact me if interested.

Thanks

Hello All and Happy New Year,
I removed my exhaust elbow so I can easily remove the hose leading to the muffler in order to replace it with a more flexible Vetus exhaust hose.  Question I have is I noticed a carbon-like gasket between the elbow and engine.  Is this something that I can re-use??  Or, should I get a replacement gasket.  Also, should there be any sealant applied?  I don't notice any sealant, but the gasket is stuck to the elbow when I removed it.  Probably just stuck from clamp pressure.  But just wondering if any sealant is/or should be there.

Thanks!!!!
Roc
Sea Life #1477

Hello,
Does anyone know if the deck area where the chainplates are mounted is solid fiberglass or is it cored??  Reason I ask is I am rebedding them and want to know if I should grind out the core in that area and put epoxy in it's place so no future water can migrate into the deck.  Just want to prepare my supply list.

Thanks,
Roc-

Hello all,
I can't find the initial message from the person asking where to get curtain replacements for the opening port hatches.  Well, here is where I got curtains for my fixed ports (below the rubrail).  My boat already came with curtains on the opening ports.  These are much like the type that are already supplied with my boat.  Here is the contact:
Odyssey Sailmakers,
877 W. 16th Street
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Phone: 949-631-2311
Fax: 949-631-2651
email: dpreed@earthlink.net
Dennis Reed, Gen. Manager.

Ask them to send you information about the Pleated Shades.  They come in white or ivory, my boat uses ivory.  

Regards,

I will pull my muffler off to fix a leak, and planning on re-installing it with a hump hose.  I received the new hump hose from Catalina, part #80648, and noticed it is very rigid.  I have a MkII, so the elbow coming off the engine points downward, and the input to the muffler is on the side (not the top like the older ones).  As a result, the hose will need to make close to a 90 degree bend, and in looking at the hose, I don't think that can happen without it kinking.

Anyone with information on the installation of a new Hump Hose on a MkII (w/M35B engine)would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Roc-

Seems like I found an exhaust leak, not where the hoses are attached, but coming from the bottom of the muffler, where it is bolted to the hull.  Used soap and water to check around all the hoses and no leaks were found.  When I felt around the base, I felt air coming out where it meets the hull.  No water, just air.  Has anyone ever found an exhaust leak in that area??  What's weird is that no water comes out.  Does this sound reasonable?  I plan to take it off and marine tex any cracks.  I will also install a hump hose.  Seems like a bolt on/bolt off project to take the muffler off. Any suggestions would be appreciated.  I did do a search and read stuff about the muffler, but most failures are at the hose connections.

Thanks,
Roc-

I've searched this site (Stu please don't yell at me) for the posting about someone talking about the 3M tech saying that thier caulk isn't really formulated for sticking to stainless steel and the name and phone number of the type of caulk the 3M person suggested.  Does anyone remember that posting??  It wasn't too long ago.

Thanks!
Roc-

Hi all,
I installed an MTI Safe-T-Alert CO detector in my aft cabin, SB side, on the teak trim up by the ceiling.  This past weekend, it sounded an alarm. We did not have the engine on and there was nothing used that would emit CO.  I called MTI and told them what happened and they said occasionally, the gases from a charging battery may cause the alarm to sound.  Now I did check my battery earlier that day, by looking into each cell.  It was raining, so the boat was closed up for most of the day.  So it seems like it was the battery gases.  

Would like to know if anyone has this unit installed and if they had any false alarms (particularly when charging or checking batteries).  I'm thinking this was due to the closed up boat because of the rain and by lifting the sette cushion and checking the batteries??  Any thoughts would be appreciated..

Thanks!
Roc-

Hello All.. :)
I called Catalina parts and asked them about buying a hump hose for my C34MkII.  I measured the distance from the muffler to the elbow.  It's not a straight shot, there is a bend.  The total distance (by measuring along the bend) is about 16".  Catalina parts said they only stock one that is 8" long, and they only put it in 36's.  I thought Catalina got special hoses from Trident that are longer and will fit the longer distance for the 34???  I told this to Kent in the Tech Dept. and he is not aware of the longer hose.

Does anyone have any other info about this?? :confused:

Thanks!
Roc-

Greetings to all....
What products do you put on your prop and shaft for antifouling?  How do you prime the metal?  Have you ever used Micron Trilux 33??

Thanks!
Roc-

Hello all,
Has anyone ever converted the stock single line reefing set up on a MkII to a double line.  One line for the clew and another for the tack.  Reason I ask is because the single line set up doesn't seem to do a good job, especially for the tack.  The sail bunches up in that area and the line binds the sail at that point.  I can't get the tack close in toward the boom.  Do I need to take out the sail stop in the mast groove so the slides can move to the lowest point?

Thanks!
Roc-

Does anyone find it advantageous to be able to manually turn the vent off like what is available on the Powervent 3000?  Or is the Day/Night version (much smaller) adequate without the manual shut off switch??  For those that have these vents, what are the pros and cons.  The Powervent might have some bells and whistles that may not really be necessary.  I am comparing both and would like to get some feedback on the options for each.

Thanks for the input.

Roc-

I recently noticed the Blower hose that's on the SB side cowl vent on the transom is connected to a plastic Y-plenum, which is located above the A/B fridge unit.  The hose is connected to two of the Y openings, but the third is not connected to anything.  It has been my understanding that when the blower motor is running (the blower motor unit is connected to the port side cowl on the transom), it blows air out of the port cowl, causing a vacuum effect in the engine compartment, drawing in fresh air from the hose connected to the SB side cowl.  But with the Y set up, not only would air be drawn from outside, it would also be drawn from the rear lazarette.  But not only that, I'm sure this compromises the amount of fresh air that is allowed to be sucked in from the SB cowl because of this third opening.  For anyone with a MkII model, I am curious if you also have the Y-plenum and if so, why is it there?  Why isn't the intake hose connected directly to the cowl vent??

Thanks,
Roc-

Hi all,
Would like some advice on where to splice in 12volt connections for items that need constant power.  For example, a carbon monoxide detector, propane leak sniffer, etc.  Right now I have the wire for my radio settings and my acu-gauge tank monitor connected to the hot wire on the 'Off-1-All-2' panel switch located under the Nav table.  No matter what the switch is set to, those wires always have power because they're connected to the incoming hot wire that leads from the batteries.  However, it's not a good idea to have more than three wires on a connection.  One thought is to get a multi-buss bar connected to the hot wire, mount it off to the side, and then connect various components to that.  Any other ideas??

Thanks!
Roc-

I'm thinking about adding a microwave in the galley.  I was planning on installing it in the center cupboard, which is where Catalina puts it as an option.  Took measurements of the allowable space, but haven't found a unit that will fit.  Those of you that have a microwave installed in the cupboard, what model do you have and where did you buy it?  I already searched the message board and projects page.

Thanks for the tip...

Roc-

Hi All,
I just got one of these GPS units.  I notice in the instructions they talk about a program you can buy called 'MapSource'.  Those of you who may have this GPS unit, did you get this MapSource upgrade?  What advantages does it give you and was it worth it??

Thanks!!

Roc-

I have two 4D batteries in my 2000 C34.  Always use distilled and never have to add more than a few tablespoons in each cell.  Over the winter, I usually turn the charger on every couple of weeks to keep them topped off.  Last week, I checked the voltage with a multi-tester.  I noticed 12.66 volts in one battery and 12.76 in the other.  It's been about two weeks since my last top off.  Whenever I have checked this in the past, both batteries have always been within 0.01 from each other.  I checked the water level, all ok.  I did notice that there is some caking on the plates (sulfation??).  I checked Calder's on this and there is something about an 'equalization' procedure, but it's a bit confusing (and sounds dangerous).  Has anyone tried this or should I talk to the marina and have them look at it. Any idea why one battery was 0.10 volts lower??

Thanks,
Roc-

Many marinas have a 'hold-harmless' clause which says that the marina is not liable for any damages.  It may read something like this: "Member (i.e. you, the slip renter) shall indemnify and hold Owner (i.e. Marina) harmless from any and all costs, liabilities and damages incurred by Owner as a result of personal injury or property damage caused by the storage of the vessel at the Marina...unless caused by Owner's negligence...."  For example, the marina's dock burns down from an electical short, and your boat with it, they are not responsible.  The dock master puts a boat next to yours, it catches fire along with yours, they're not responsible.  So you say, no problem, I have boat insurance.  Then you look at your boat insurance policy and it will have a statement saying if you waive your rights against another party (i.e. the Hold/Harmless clause), your policy is void!  In your policy, it would be under a heading stated as 'Subrogation (Right of Recovery)' or 'Impairment of Recovery'.  What they are saying is if you make an insurance claim, the standard procedure is that the insurance co. pays you (that's how it works).  Then, since it's the marina's fault, the insurance co. will try to recover the cost from them....BUT, if you sign the agreement which holds the marina harmless from any liability, then the insurance co. can't recover the funds paid to you.  By signing the hold harmless condition as a slip renter, you now took away any possibility for the insurance co. to recover from the marina.

Check out your insurance policy and the Terms and Conditions you signed when you rented your slip.

I learned all this from looking into new insurance carriers (and reading lots of fine print).

Any feedback/advice/comments from C34'ers that are attorneys would be appreciated.

Roc-

Would appreciate tips on the best/easiest way to clean the crud off the prop and shaft.  Everything was power washed when the boat was hauled in the fall, so all the barnicles are off.  What's left is a grimey coating. I used metal cleaner and a rough scotch brite pad, but my elbow doesn't have enough grease.  Would a coarse steel wool work better?  Shaft is stainless and prop is bronze.

Thanks!
Roc-

Has anyone used the Loos gauge to tension the forestay?  With the extrusion for the furler in the way, how did you do it?  Also, what about the backstay, was the gauge set above the split?  Would appreciate the advice.
Thanks--
Roc-

Howdy,
I'm finishing up the installation of an A/C unit.  I mounted it under the sink in the head.  It's a Marine Air, 16,000 BTU unit.  Here's my problem.  What to do with the condensate water??  Most installations just have a hose that leads from the pan to the bilge.  But in my case, I have a nice dry, sweet smelling bilge via my dripless packing seal.  So the last thing I want to do is have stagnant water sit in my bilge!  One thought is to put one of those flexible water jugs I've seen in B/US in the bilge and lead the hose into it.  This way I can dump it out when it's full.  Another thought is this, I've seen on the Mermaid Air website that they have a gizmo called the 'condensator'.  I attaches to the discharge drain hose just before the thru-hull.  It basically siphons the water out of the pan by the suction created by the moving water out of the drain hose.  Does anyone have one of these that they can comment about??

Any other ideas on what to do with the condensation water will be greatly appreciated.  

Thanks!!
Roc-

Hello everyone,
I see evidence of rust stains around the acorn nuts next to the chainplates when viewed from inside the cabin.  This is seen on the forward two chainplates on the port side.  I did read the article in FAQ on 'How do I rebed leaky chain plates' and have a question.  I was thinking about leaving the tension on the rig, just like Ron suggested.  It seems the force from the shroud is directed through the deck with the T bar that is attached to the tie rod.  I figure I can remove the two bolts on either side of the chainplate along with the plate cover that is attached by two little screws, and dig out the old bedding.  I also see there is a gasket of bedding on the plate where the tie rod is attached to inside the cabin.  I can also dig this bedding out. My question is, am I correct in thinking I can remove these two bolts because the force of the rigging is actually directed to the tie rod??  I want to take these bolts out and check the plywood core.  Based on the design, it seems these bolts can be removed while leaving the system intact and in tension.  I plan on injecting the bedding using a plastic syringe with a flexible small diameter tip.  Any thoughts??

Thanks,
Roc

I saw an ad in the latest USPS ENSIGN about an additive you put into your battery electrolyte solution.  It dissolves any sulfation on the plates and prevents new deposits from forming.  It supposed to reduce charging time and increase discharging time.  Any electrical gurus out there that might comment??

Thanks,
Roc


Battery Equaliser homepage

What kinds of things have you done to keep water from trickling down the filament lines and going through the holes cutout on the top of the mainsail cover?  I notice my mainsail gets dirty from the water.  Would appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks!
Roc