Topics

Had my radio expert neighbot do an attenna check on my non-functioning VHF.  Bad between the "bilge" joiner and the VHF.  Any info on routing from radio to bilge.  1986 vintage I am assuming it is original.

Mannaged to drop my old autohelm last fall getting off the boat, thus a new one to install.  Any suggestions as to where to put the display?  Can I avoid cutting any new holes?  I presume that would mean reconfiguring my 1986 pods at the hels station.

I have recently installed the garhauer rigid vang and I am sure that anyone who has done this knows that the original mainsheet lead now chafs on the vang.  I've done the search on this topic and noted where Ron Hill suggests eliminating going through the bock under boom and strait to the block at the base of the mast and back.  

What I would like to know is if anyone has set up a system that would bring the working end of the mainsheet through a fiddle block with jaws that would eliminate running from the mast through a deck organizer and back to the cockpit?  I would imagine you would need to multiply the blocks to improve purchase as it is only 6 to 1 (I think) now.  You could still run to a winch if needed.  Suggestions.  Thanks.

I managed to wreck my grounding cover with a jib sheet yesterday, not screwed down.  It is a Hubbell 30 amp 125v Grounding cover.  I can't find it on the Hubbell web site. Found a Marinco on Defender but it doesn't appear to be quite the same.  Any suggestions?

I know I could probably find this somewhere, but then I would deprive Ron Hill the pleasure of telling me ;-)  What is the diameter of the dorades on a 1986 vintage C34?  Thanks.

The spec sheet from the Mark I brosure is much less detailed than for the MK II. Is a better one available?

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

A green indicator light on my electrical panal has burned out it is a Solico 14v 1/w stamped Mexico.  As I recall it indicates when my shore power is on.  It is app. 1" wide by 1/2" tall.  I haved tried on line to locate but cannot find anything retail.  No luck either at NAPA or Radio Shack.  Any suggestions?

Mark

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

I put a new three blade flex-o-fold prop on my boat last year and this season have noticed some cracking in the hull where the shaft strut goes in to the bottom of the boat.  There was water in there (obviously) when I pulled the boat the other day.  It seems to be a crescent shaped crack on both sides of the strut a few inches above where the strut enters the hull aft and arcing down to the bottom of the hull.  I was wondering if the torque of the folding prop put enough strain on the strut to cause the cracking?  I did some rudder repair last year and noticed that someone (previous owner) had drilled in that area from the bottom up and filled in with a type of caulk.  Any ideas?

Mark Cassidy

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

I'm sure I could find this info somewhere, but a quick question is easier!  What is the optimum RPM for my 1986 Universal 25 for cruising? I have been using about 2800 which pushes me at 5/6 knts.

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

Both of my stanchion braces have pulled out of the deck.  They were secured with an anchor type devise that expanded when screwed down.  Any suggestions on resecuring?

Mark Cassidy

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

I bought a used C34 this past Spring and club raced it.  My performance was so bad that the Lake Ontario PHRF wouldn't even consider it! I won the club champiomship in my Irwin 30 a few years back, so I'm not a rookie sailor. I put new sails on that appear to be shaping well, I have a fixed 3 blade prop, and a fixed back stay which I plan to replace before the start of next season.  Any other suggistions?

To all 1986 model owners,

I put my water intake strainer and housing in a safe place last Fall and now, somebody stole it. Does anyone know what I need to replace it?

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

Upon hauling my boat this weekend I noticed hundreds of little blisters starting about eight inches below the water line and extending about a foot or more down.  Most on the starbord side.  They are abot 1/4 inch in diameter and all rather uniform size. I popped a few and dug one out and it was through the gelcoat but no further.

This is my second season with boat.  I didn't have any blisters when I hauled last year. This Spring, I did sand down the barrier coat to get a better bottom, which the former owner and left very heavy.  It is the Interlux epoxy version of barrier coat. One friend is saying I'm looking about $800.00 in materials and 500 man hours of labor, another says "don't worry about them..."  I am! Any suggestions?

Mark

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

Can anyone suggest getting a positive reply from Catalina.  I need to order a new sliding storage door and a hanging locker bracket.  Mr. Martinez in parts never returns my calls.  I hate leaving multiple long distance messages from New York!

I have read most of the discussions from the Message Board re battery chargers, pro and con.  I cooked my Newmar 20 Amp charger the other day.  My local Catalina dealer tells me that Catalina is now finally installing a good charger, the "Charles" any comments?  Anyone no anything about the Newmar?  The Guest 20 amp goes for around $400 and the Charles a bit more.  My charger was mounted in the hanging locker next to the head and I would like to mount the next one in the same place. Any recommendations?

Mark Cassidy

Mark Cassidy
#232 1986
"Rapparee"

Last season I posted a message lamenting my miserable performance on the race course and seeking some advice.  I sailed 80 seconds off my rating last season.  I did the bottom as suggested, bought a flex-a-fold three bladed prop and a new head sail.  I have yet to install the adjustable backstay set up I got from Garhauer.  I am happy to say that I just took 3 bullets out of 3 races in the clubs annual regatta and am doing very well in the weekly series as well.  Thanks for the advice.

Mark Cassidy

I bought my boat last Spring and am planning on redoing the  brightwork this season. I need to go over "original" cetol.  I would like to get rid of the "orange" cast and have seen a comment regarding adding some Petit's mohogany to bring out a richer color.  Has anyone used the new cetol that talks of an "oiled" look? That is what I would like to achieve. If I redo the cetol, do I need to take the brightwork down to the wood?

When I took my spreaders off the mast to prepare for the the winter storage rack the "mast fixture" that the spreaders attach to slid right out of the spar.  There was a little collar on both sides of this piece but they did nothing to keep it in. It was not an integral part of the mast. I just bought the boat this Spring and the former owners yard rigged it. My old Irwin 30 spar had two "ears" welded on the mast that the spreaders were pinned to. My local C30 owners had never seen anything like. She is a 1986 #232.

When preparing my mast for winter storage the "mast fixture" that the spreaders are attached to slid right out of the mast when I took the spreaders off. This is a solid piece with holes drilled in it (unevenly I may add)  which the spreaders slide over to be pinned.

My old Irwin 30 spar had"ears" welded right to the mast over which you put the spreaders.  My local C 30 buddies never saw anything like this. I bought the boat yard rigged this Spring.

This seems a bit unsettling to me. Should I be alarmed?