Messages

that's an amazing trip!  Is 2 months the longest you've been on Shamrock?  How many in your crew?  I've heard many good things about the beautiful north channel.  I would need a solid amount of time off to sail there from the toronto area

I've spent a little over 2 months on Shamrock, enjoyed every day.  I mostly single hand and like my sleep, so it takes me longer to get places.  The North Channel is great for me, gorgeous scenery, lots of anchorages, very clear and clean water.  Looks much like the coast of Maine without tides, lobster pots and much less tourist. Downside for some is its basically remote, bars and restaurants are few and far between, make your own drinks and meals. You should look into the Trent Severn, one season in the North Channel I met a couple on a C32 they took the Trent Severn and enjoyed it.
Jim

When did Peggie Hall switch allegiance from Raritan K.O.to no flex? Haven't heard of noflex until now.

My statement saying Peggie Hall recommended noflex may be out of date, that was a few years ago.  I remember something about noflex adding oxygen. Was thinking about adding the larger, below the rubrail vent, now using noflex and don't seem to need it. It works for me, but I was 95% happy with odorlos.
Jim

Will also look into NoFlex.  This past season I used Odorlos - are they comparable products?

I had no problem when I switched from odorlos to noflex.  Just did a good pump out and started using noflex.
Jim

Working in such close quarters the fumes can be quite overpowering to the point where I've actually gotten a headache, to say nothing of working with the horrible smell.

A season before I changed the sanitation hoses I started using Noflex.  Was impressed with how clean and lack of smell in the system.  Of course the old, original hose was permeated and need changed.  FWIW it's what Peggy Hull recommends.
 
 https://www.amazon.com/BoatersMate-Noflex-Digestor-Treatment-Eliminator/dp/B07C7HRV4P

Jim
 

I'm dreading replacing the sanitation hoses.

I did Shamrock's a few years ago.  Wasn't bad, finding and cutting all the cable ties were what I remember as time consuming.

Thinking of attending the GLCC rendezvous in Escanaba MI.  That would be a couple of months on Shamrock.    Of course that would include the North Channel    A plug for the GLCC, Great Lakes Cruising Club, terrific information on Great Lakes harbors and anchorages.  Their harbor reports take a lot of the mystery of pulling into an unfamiliar harbor, marina or anchorage.  Also the GLCC school, webinars, are great, I recommend the weather series for anyone.
https://www.glcclub.com/.


Jim

Ron makes an excellent point here and I want to second that motion.

I agree with that.  Also go with the better isinglass, think the trade name used on mine was stratiglass.  It's still nice and clear after 6 seasons.  Also haven't restitched anything.
Jim

It was surprising to me to find our NTU C34 with a double ended mainsheet with jamb cleats. I think I will rig ours as a single line on the port cabin top with an added Garhauer clutch.

The way I sail Shamrock, MKll double ended mainsheet, is I rarely adjust the port side of the mainsheet.  I adjust the starboard side and when things get hard to adjust I use the cabin top winch, the mainsheet just pops out of the jamb cleat.  If the winch in needed for something else it's easy enough to ease the sheet into the jamb cleat.  That works well for me.
Jim

Survey recommended new motor mounts amongst many other things

Welcome and Congratulations.  Hope you enjoy your C34 as much as I do and find this group as helpful as I do.  The better surveys I've seen rate their recommendations in order of do immediately to nice things to do.  Was yours rated that way?  Were you present at the survey?  If they are original motor mounts I don't doubt that it's time to take a good look. If the PO, that's previous owner in C34 speak, was careful changing oil the original may be ok. What I'm saying without seeing of feeling the mounts is that they may be usable and the surveyor just put them on the list. In my opinion there are lots of good surveyors and some that are just good enough.
The reason for my long post is that you probably have lots to do on your new to you boat, probably too much.  Can be overwhelming.  Make a list, starting with the "do this or else" post and your survey.  Safety and must do first, then sail and sail some more.
It helps if you put in your signature the boat information year, model, hull number engine, see what others have.
Welcome,
Jim

A couple of pictures that show Shamrock's canvas but not well.  It's the one supplied by Catalina and is called California style.  I like it.  I do have a connector piece and don't find too bad to sail/motor with.  I've thought about having one made from isinglass or the sunbrella sun mesh but haven't. One picture shows a sunshade that I had made up, zips into the Bimini where the connector would zip.  Works well at anchor and after a little practice goes up quick.
I recommend you sail and think some about sailing without the dodger.  Often have waves hitting my dodger.  But that's sailing in Lake Erie.
FWIW when I replaced my canvas a few years ago got it from the shop Catalina uses and it was just like original and much less cost.
Jim

Another thing I discovered here is someone in a previous thread said it is bad to start the engine while on shore power and that it can damage the tach.

One of the things I was told when I got my first boat was, not to start the engine with shore power battery charger on and not to turn off the engine key before shutting the engine off.  Some guys said for the starter, most said alternator.  Not one of the knowledgeable guys said to do it differently.
So that's what I do.
Jim

FWIW.  The second season I had Shamrock the GFCI started to trip occasionally.  When I troubleshooted I found a bad, poorly made, crimp to the outlet.  The wire easily pulled from the connector.  Easy enough to fix.  Then I thought if one connection was bad, were others also bad?  So, one rainy day I gave all the connector/wire a firm pull and a good look.  Found a good number of them pulled out or were loose. That was AC and DC, receptacles, busses and breakers. Catalina factory must have had a bad crimping tool.
So, if your hull number is close to Shamrock,1570, it may be worth checking the connections.
Jim

I can't trace it nor can I find a path to run a new wire to the light.

To answer your question with any specifics need more information.  Year and model would be a good start.  It's been my experience that the wire is rarely the problem. Chances are it's a bad connection or fixture.  The switches on the fixtures often are a problem.  A good multimeter, one with a audible continuity, is helpful. Of course know the basics of using it.
Happy hunting,
Jim

t's your boat, your call of course but I wouldn't drop the keel to fix it, seems a bit like killing ants with a sledgehammer. I'd just open it up with a grinder let it dry out and fill it with the fairing material of choice

That's about what I would do. Inspect, retorque keel bolts then fill and fair. Also see that the boatyard doesn't add to the problem by having too much pressure on the bow.  Will probably be some redoing each year.
Jim

the reason the topic doesn't because it's mainly cosmetic rarely structural. "Spider webs" are just nature of the beast when it comes to most fiberglass construction.

I agree, some gelcoat is flexible some not so much.  Don't think the boat manufactures have much control over the product (gelcoat).  It all looks good from the factory.  Here is a fix that a club member uses.  He uses it on some noticeable spider cracks, it looks good for a couple of seasons and is easy to do and redo. May be worth a try.

https://magicezy.com/collections/marine/products/magicezy-hairline-fix?variant=40293538955471

When it comes to the elbow joints I'd use one or the other but not both, I prefer the tape. When it comes to coolant hoses I just push them on dry and never had a problem on boat or car, clean surfaces of course.

That's just what I do.  If the hose/barb is a little tight, I may use some water to help it slide/rotate until in place.
Jim