Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Jim Hardesty

#1081
Main Message Board / Re: Advice on adhesives
December 03, 2015, 01:49:46 PM
I've not used this, saw something like it at Home Depot or Lowes.  Looks like the stuff my dentist uses.   Might be worth a try. 

http://www.buylazerbond.com/?gclid=COm3y-LSwMkCFUytNwodT18JMQ&gclsrc=ds

Really, looks like the plastic on your depth sounder is badly UV damaged.  Any fix may not last long.
Jim
#1082
Main Message Board / Re: Wet Deck 2 - the jib track
November 23, 2015, 07:08:12 AM
You may consider an impact driver.  To work it....set it to loosen, apply a little twisting to loosen, then hit with a mallet, repeat. Most of the time don't need to hit it very hard.   Here is a link to a cheep one
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
if you want a better one try a motor cycle shop.  I bought mine when I was doing dirt bikes 40+ years ago, still use it a couple of times a year.  Just not on dirt bikes.
Also there is spray on oil products Kroil or PB Blaster are good ones.  My concern with that is clean up and resealing after using oil on a porous area.
Hope that helped.
Jim
#1083
Main Message Board / Re: How to use bow water tank?
November 21, 2015, 03:33:42 AM
Ron is right.  Again.  The easy way to add your boat information is to put it into your signature.  From the forum home page click profile.  Then add what you like.  Took me a bit of time looking at every thing to discover this.  FWIW it's worth the time to look at everything included.  A lot of information on the site.
Regards,
Jim
#1084
Main Message Board / Re: How to use bow water tank?
November 20, 2015, 05:08:31 AM

On my 2001MKll it's exactly as Tony described.  I don't use my forward tank think the boat is a little bow heavy with it filled.  Would if I needed the extra water.

If you haven't used your tank for a couple of months sanitize it per Peggy Hall's recommendation.  ie  drain the tank...add 1 quart bleach per 50 gal (forward tank is 28 gal) ......fill tank with water..let flow through each faucet.....let stand 3 to 24 hours max.....drain....fill with fresh water....flush through each faucet.

Highly recommend the book.  If you buy one be cautious loaning it out. 

http://www.amazon.com/Get-Boat-Odors-Peggie-Hall/dp/1892399156

Jim
#1085
Main Message Board / Re: Fun with sewing
November 18, 2015, 07:02:31 AM
Nice :thumb:
Jim
#1086
Tony,
I have the same plugs Ken suggested, they work well.  Also I go to an auto parts store and get dielectric grease, the stuff that's used on the brake and turn signal bulbs.  Use that to damp proof the connections.  Had a problem with my 2001 with dirt and stuff building up between the mast and the mast steep.  The rain water would not drain at the base of the mast, sometimes would leak for days after a rain.  Both on the deck and water would follow the wires to the bilge.  I just increased the size and length of the existing drain slot.  No problems since.
Hope this helps,
Jim
#1087
Or, you could just put screws back in the holes.  Possibly flat head or oval with trim washers.  That's what I'd try first.
Jim
#1088
Main Message Board / Re: roller furling
November 17, 2015, 06:11:21 AM
They have worked the bugs out of roller furling.  Like Stu said a lot of good solid units are made.  My 2001 MKll also came with a Shaefer, works problem free.  On my previous boat, at the recommendation of the sailmaker, I installed a Furlex.  I believe the Furlex reefed better.  It was made to roll the foil before the tack to flatten the sail.  It also worked problem free.
When I was looking to install roller furling on my previous boat, some units included the forestay some did not.  The Furlex did and was simple to install.
Jim
#1089
Just a word of caution.  Don't try to start the engine without water going to the raw water pump.  True the engine won't overheat for a while.  But, the raw water pump will burn up.   And the exhaust system is made to run wet, running dry may overheat it.  Also the manual cautions not to crank the engine for longer than 30 seconds.  After that you need to drain the muffler.
I just don't want you to make a problem worse.
Jim
#1090
Main Message Board / Re: new mast
November 07, 2015, 10:52:02 AM
Just curious, did you consider in mast furling?  FWIW I'm very happy with mine.
Jim
#1091
Main Message Board / Re: loose foot or not?
November 06, 2015, 04:20:44 AM
Don't want to change this discussion to sail trim 101.  Just want to second Ken's recommendation of Don Guillette's sail trim book and guides.  I study the book every spring and keep the guides handy when sailing.  It's the only book that I don't loan out. 
Jim
#1092
Main Message Board / Re: loose foot or not?
November 05, 2015, 09:38:22 AM
Paul,
I have in-mast furling so my main is loose footed.  So don't know how your standard outhaul will work.  My observation is that sailors that have switched use the outhaul more often trimming the main.  Now may be a good time to get the outhaul working well and possibly lead the adjustment to the cockpit.
Jim
#1093
Main Message Board / Re: Holding tank flood
October 31, 2015, 05:40:08 AM
Paul,
If it still bubbles back after fixing the kink.  The next thing to try is a new joker valve.
Jim
#1094
Is one anywhere close to Erie,PA?  Don't think so, wish there was.  Don't think there is even a dealer on Lake Erie.
Jim
#1095
Paul,
The breaker may be sized for the wire.  Before running the AC check that you have the right sized wire (#12 I think) all the way to the shore power plug.
Jim