Messages

How bad was removing the cover?  How long did it take?  Please let us know how you like it removed after using it for a while.
Jim

They would be just as strong as they are now.  Might look a little odd with a small diameter.  You may have rust and corrosion under the vinyl.  I put my full weight on the top life line each spring to test.  Sounds like a lot of work taking the vinyl off.  I replaced them on my previous boat, a 30 footer, I don't remember them being too expensive. 
And.....It's a safety thing.  I don't like to go cheep there.  That's just me.
Jim

I'd blow out all of the water in the water heater and watch all the "junk" come out!!

Ron,  When I changed my water heater I was surprised at all the water that was still in the tank after being drained.  I'm sure draining completely would be good.  Just how do you blow out the water from the water heater?
Jim

"you didn't get it from me"

Thanks, what ever your name is.
Jim

from Mainsail

Something is wrong with either how it is plumbed or the filter or filter head itself.

I will take a close look at the plumbing and the filter head in the next couple of weeks.  Does anyone know a contact at Racor that can answer questions I may have?
Jim

Ken,
Yes, it's the factory set-up Racor, pump, then spin-on.  I did add a vacuum gauge just after the Racor and get no useful information.  ie. The vacuum is still low when I start to loose RPM's.  Do you think that the Racor is defective?  How can I check?
Jim

I hope someone can explain my ongoing experience with my factory set of filters on my 2001 MKll.  I use a 2 micron Racor filter element, R15s, and a Universal factory filter spin on, or a Wix 33390.  The first filter to plug is the always the factory spin on.  The max engine rpms will start to drop, then if I change the on the engine, spin on, filter the engine will run normal again.  This happens using a variety of filters on the engine, spin on.  Neither filter looks dirty, or to have water in them.  The Racor bowel looks clean.  My logic says that the first filter should get dirty first. Also I think that the Racor 2 micron is much finer filtering than the spin on. 
Now I change the spin on every season and the Racor every 2 seasons. A few times I've had to change filters during the season.   I use 2 or 3 tanks of fuel each seasons.  Seems like not much fuel being filtered to dirty a filter.  I do have confidence that the fuel I buy is clean.
Something just doesn't seem right to me.
Jim

A plastic shield does sound like a good idea.  It's easy to start working on the DC side at the dock and have the AC side live and not give it the proper respect.  Another thing to put on the to-do list.
Jim

One other thought.  If your barrier and bottom paint isn't well (an inch or two) above the water.  Now is the time to move it.  On the first boat I barrier coated I left the water line as was (above the water but not by much) and got some "splash blisters" on the gelcoat below the boot stripe.  Not a big deal but would have been an easy thing to avoid if I had known.
Jim

Tony,
Not sure if your breakers are identical to mine, if they are why not just unscrew it from the jumper bar and remove the screws from the front of the breaker.  Add the wire then reassemble.   Or remove what breakers you need for access to remove the plastic protector then change that to be removed easy.  The plastic protector is a good idea the lack of access is not.
FWIW my MKll has no plastic protector.
Lots of luck with your project,
Jim

I would do the full barrier coat.  Prep is the most work and that's done. I think the extra time/money would be a small addition to the overall project.  But then it's probably not necessary.  Perhaps a selling point when you sell the boat.
Jim

Bob,
My radio is connected to my gps for the distress calling.  I think new radios have built in gps so it's only my radios generation that are connected.  If you don't have the red button for distress you don't have to think about this.
Jim

Steve,
I think most boats flex some on the hard.  Just think, in the water the keel is hanging, on the hard its supporting most of the boats weight.  The important thing is adjusting the support pads.  They should be just snug.  I've seen many boat yards just set the boat on a cradle without adjusting the pads. Another consideration is if the mast is up and the tension on the rig.  A half inch does seem like a lot, but I think a couple of days floating and everything will come back.
Hope your launch goes well.
Jim

Sounds like it is set to "No Bar"... Go into set up and check the Rudder Bar setting first..

I did that.  I'll recheck it to see that it took.
Thanks
Jim

In attempt to improve the operation of my Autohelm st4000+ autopilot I installed a rudder position sensor (rps).  Got it installed (a real pita) but I don't see the display I expected.  The manual isn't clear to me what I should see.   I just don't see bars or a pointer on the display when I move the rudder.  I did go into the set-up and add the rps.  I did a resistance check on the outputs and as best as I can tell (don't have factory values) every thing seems to be working.  My question for those who use a rps is.  What should the display look like?
Thanks,
Jim