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Messages - Gary Brockman

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 9
Main Message Board / Re: CNG
« on: May 22, 2015, 03:00:29 PM »
In Southern California, most of the fuel docks have CNG tanks where you trade your empty tank for a full one.

When I bought my boat in 2008 I found two leaks under the the aft berth: the first being a void if the filler around the strut; and the second from water leaking into the skeg from a small crack at the aft joint from where the skeg meets the hull right before the rudder post. When the yard drilled into the skeg close to a gallon of water came out. The boat had to be hauled out to repair both leaks and the rudder had to be dropped to fix the skeg leak.


Main Message Board / Re: raytheon st60 speed with signet paddle wheel
« on: April 12, 2015, 09:15:25 AM »
Call Signet in Redondo Beach. They have parts for everything they made and can tell you if your unit is a Signet if you send them a picture.

Main Message Board / Re: Jib Halyard Shackle Broke...How do I retreive?
« on: February 17, 2015, 09:27:00 AM »
Going up the mast is the only way I know.

Main Message Board / Re: Size for Spinnaker Sock/Sleeve
« on: January 27, 2015, 01:59:44 PM »
My tack line is set up with a two to one purchase so it is easier to adjust while sailing. When I used a direct line the load would sometimes get too heavy for someone to adjust. The end of my tack line has a loop that I attach onto the stainless pin over the starboard anchor roller. I then have a block on the line with a snap shackle attached to it that snaps onto the spinnaker, then the tack line goes thru another block that is attached to the stainless pin over the port anchor roller, then leading back to the cockpit to a cam cleat. We are able to adjust the tack line under a heavy load with this set up.

For just daysailing you could get by with a shorter static line thru a block to the anchor cleat. When we douse our spinnakers, we usually release the shackle on the tack and pull in on the sheet. We did it the same way when we used the Tacker.


Main Message Board / Re: Size for Spinnaker Sock/Sleeve
« on: January 27, 2015, 12:11:38 PM »
My boat, which is also a tall rig, came with several symmetrical chutes and a cruising asymmetrical spinnaker with a sleeve. I believe that the sleeve was around 44 to 45 feet long as it did not go all the way down the leech of the sail which was 46 feet long. I tried using this sail with an ATN Tacker and also with a tack line to the bow and found that the tack line worker far better than the Tacker.

I gave up using the sock after an incident where my son in law and I were using it to fly the chute on a day sail and when we tried to pull the sock down, we found that the sock had wrapped around the headstay so tightly that we could not get it down. As we were rapidly approaching a lee shore, we tried to gather the chute behind the main, turn on the engine and go into the marine about 1.5 miles away. It didn't take long for my son in law to loose control of the chute and we entered the marina with a 46 foot long banner flying from the mast head. Once in a slip, my son in law hauled me to the top of the mast where I unhooked the chute and it quickly unwrapped and fell to the deck. Some of my friends still like to joke about this incident from time to time. From talking to my sailmaker and friends, my no name sock may have been the problem as everyone speaks highly of the ATN sock.

Using a symmetrical chute with a Tacker will limit the angles you can use the chute to tight reaching angles of 90 to 110 degrees true and maybe out to 120 degrees at the most as the main will shadow and collapse the chute in running angles as the shoulders of the chute are not cut to float out around the front of the boat like an asymmetrical.

I would take the time and the expense to rig using your pole as you will be able to get a lot more use from your chute. We use the pole for both symmetrical and asymmetrical chute for running.


Main Message Board / AC Refrigeration Question
« on: July 14, 2014, 05:16:44 PM »
I am about to convert my Aldler Barbour refrigeration system to AC for when the boat is in the slip. I have copied the John Nixon article from the Tech Wiki and have my power supply but I am not sure what to buy for the relay. I went to Pep Boys this afternoon and told them I needed a SPDT 30 amp relay and they said that they had 5 or 6 30 amp relays but as I know nothing about the electronics involved, I was not sure which, if any, were the right one to purchase. Does anyone have a suggestion of what I should buy?



Main Message Board / Re: GPS Inside the Cabin
« on: April 29, 2014, 11:07:32 PM »
Like Stu, I have used the BU-353 for four years by just setting it on the chart table behind my iBook Mac and have never had a problem with reception. If fact, it gets reception faster than my Garmin 76csx handheld which is mounted behind my computer. You may have a defective unit.

Main Message Board / Re: Downwind Racing
« on: June 20, 2013, 05:26:54 PM »
It seems that everyone has been talking about running down wind without a spinnaker, because I think the 34 does very well under spinnaker. I normally race our boat in point to point random leg races rather than windward leeward races around the cans as I find we do not point very well and can't compete with the boats that do point well. In off the wind races we are very competitive have done very well. Although we have symmetrical and asymmetrical spinnakers, I have completely switched over to asymmetrical spinnakers as they seem to be have more sail area and are easier to handle. Unless it is really blowing, we normally sail from 140 to 160 degrees to the true wind depending on the wind strength.

Two weeks ago, we were in a 30 mile race from the west end of Catalina to Marina del Rey in primarily 7 to 9 knots of wind and in a fleet that included two well sailed Catalina 42's and a Swan 44. We sailed at angles of 140 to 150 degrees to the wind, gybing back and forth while one of the 42's took a rhumb line of approximately 170 degrees to the wind and the other 42 and the Swan sailed an angle like us but sailed one long leg and gybed for a long leg to the finish. We were first to finish and corrected out over the fleet. The 42 that sailed the rhumb line was second to finish and corrected out to second and would have beat us if we hadn't sailed at a hotter angle and continued to gybe back and forth across the rhumb line.


I was at the island Saturday and Sunday and spoke with the Harbor Patrol about the reservation system and was told the the guy who set it up last year is gone as is the software they used. They ar hopeful to set up a new reservation system in the future, but its not likely this summer.

Main Message Board / Re: leaky dorade vents
« on: June 05, 2013, 02:22:20 PM »
May not be the dorade vents, could be leaks from the traveller finding their way into the dorade vent openings.

Main Message Board / Re: Adding gear to an asymmetrical spinnaker
« on: March 17, 2013, 04:49:16 PM »
My boat came with two spinnakers, a racing symmetrical and a cruising asymmetrical. I bought an ATN Tacker for the asymmetrical and used it 3 or 4 times before I decided that since it used a tack line through a block on the anchor roller, I could just use the tack line without the Tacker. I set up the tack line with a 2 to 1 purchase running back to the cockpit so it is easy to adjust the tack line when the spinnaker is filled. I took the Tacker off the boat and it is sitting in my garage.

Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Replacement Rudder for 1986 Mk I
« on: September 08, 2012, 12:27:10 AM »
Ron -

The Foss rudder is an elliptical rudder that was designed by Alan Andrews, who has designed a long list of highly successful racing boats on the West coast over the last 30 years from 30 to 80 feet.

Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Replacement Rudder for 1986 Mk I
« on: September 07, 2012, 11:26:44 AM »
Here are the copies of the Catalina and Foss replacement rudders superimposed over the old rudder.


Main Message Board / Re: gooseneck failure
« on: September 03, 2012, 11:03:22 PM »
Ken -

The same thing happened to me during a daysail about 3 years ago but the solid vang kept the boom off of the deck.  I installed a new cotter pin and forgot about it until 2 weeks ago when it happened again on the first windward leg of a 14 mile random leg race.  I was lucky to have Aleks (a rigger) crewing for me that day and he was able to jury rig a workable solution using short pieces of dyneema line within 5 minutes of it happening and we were still able to take 2nd in the race. 

After the race we looked at the problem and Aleks suggested that instead of inserting a new cotter pin as a short term solution that he take it to a welder and have the pin welded into the end fitting by welding the washers to the pin so that the boom is still free to turn on the pin but won't have a surprise separation. This made sense to me so we did it.  Its only been 2 weeks but it held up this weekend in a 30 mile race in 20-25 kts.


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