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Mine is 3/8". You can get by with a smaller topping life line as there isn't that big of a load on it, but 3/8" is easier to grip.

I didn't get an error message and my file size is 92 kb. I hit the Choose File button and chose the jpg file I wanted and its title showed up to the right of the Choose File button. When I hit Post the post was added to the tread but did not contain the jpg picture.

I am trying it again with this post.

I tried to attach a picture but it didn't attach. I'm not sure what I did wrong.

I replaced the standard Catalina backstay adjuster earlier this year when I replaced all of my standing rigging. I now have a 32/1 cascade on the backstay that allows me to quickly obtain a very firm forestay when racing. I originally planned to have a 64/1 purchase but my rigger said that 32/1 would work really well and that it could easily be changed to 64/1 later if I thought I needed it by adding an additional single block.

The cascade is made up of three Harken single blocks using smaller and smaller dyneema line for each segment ending with a smaller 4/1 block and tackle. I also had him install a safety line within the cascade in case there was a failure in the cascade.

This system has worked really well and gives a tighter forestay than I was able to get from the original backstay adjuster.

I agree with Stu that anyone you talk to at Garhauer is very familiar with Catalinas. I believe that the owner still owns a Catalina and his son Mark used to own a Catalina 36.

Seaward Products was sold in 2012 and the new owners cut back on selling things direct to consumers. Dennis continued to be able to provide a selection of former Catalina electrical panels and engine panels for all of the Catalina models. I don't know if he still works there or if he can still sell these panels if he does. The last time I know of someone buying a panel was in 2016. My last telephone number for Dennis was 626-374-6422.

I keep the starboard tank about half full and the aft tank empty to reduce total weight as well as aft weight in order to reduce hobby horsing in chop.

My original Day/Night vents worked really well and were basically silent. Over the last 12 years I replaced the motors twice as they wore out. When Marinco stopped selling replacement motor kits (I think their supplier went out of business) they brought out the new models.

One of my vents recently failed, so I bought two of the new 3" models and installed them last weekend. One of them makes a soft whirling noise while the other makes pronounced whirling noise that is very distracting. Has anyone else who has installed the new vents found them to be noisy, or did I just get two bad ones. Marinco said I could send them back to be repaired or replaced, but if they are all noisy, i may return them and go another way.

It all depends on the conditions you experience. A well made deepwater boat can have major problems and a Columbia 26 can go around the world without seeing winds over 20 kts. An Islander 36 was beefed up and went around the world a few years ago with only a few problems.

The mast and rigging on a 34 are over sized and should not be a problem, as long as they are in good condition. The hull is well built and strong enough. My question would be if the connection of hull to deck joint and the bulkheads could take the beating. The cockpit on a Mk I is very large and the drains are far to small to drain it fast enough if you take a wave. Installing larger drains through the transom would help. The extreme forces on the rudder are always a potential problem, so the rudder and the steering system should be gone over very carefully. I would want a strong under deck auto pilot with a back up. As mentioned above, plywood window covers could protect the ports. I would rather take a 34 to Hawaii than cross the Atlantic, but it can be done.

From my experience, a barber hauler is used to bring the jib/genoa clew closer to the centerline when going to weather, resulting in being able to point higher. What you did was more like using a tweaker on a spinnaker sheet. When reaching with a genoa, you want your lead to go forward and outboard to the rail. You can attach a additional sheet as you did, or you can re-lead the lazy jib sheet to the rail forward of its normal lead position and under the life lines.

The distance from the top of the mast to the base of the headstay should be about 46', and since the spinnaker luff curves out from the boat and is not a straight line, you should be OK. I fly my asymmetrical spinnakers using a 2 to 1 tack line forward of the headstay and don't think you will have a problem. Even when the tack is sheeted in tight on a beam reach, the spinnaker may touch the bow pulpit but it is not a problem. When you are on a deep run, the tack line is normally eased out so that the tack of the sail is above the bow pulpit.

Gary

Sorry, I just looked at the picture again a saw that the rudder length dimension included the shaft.

Gary

Paul -

When I wanted to replace my rudder, I got a set of rudder plans from Catalina showed the following:

The original fin keel squared rudder: 51" deep
The original wing keel squared rudder: 46" deep
The elliptical fin keel: 58" deep
The elliptical wing keel: 46" deep

As you can see, the fin keel rudder is deeper than a wing keel rudder, for both the early squared off rudders and the later elliptical rudders.

Your rudder dimensions are much deeper rudder than any of the Catalina plans show.

Gary

I switched to a 10/1 two years ago from the factory original and it was well worth it. I race my boat quite a bit and have a loose footed main with the outhaul is lead back to the cockpit. The outhaul adjusts very easily from light winds to heavy winds even with the extra friction of bringing it back to the cockpit. It you just set the outhaul once and never adjust it, you don't need 10/1, but if you adjust it a lot like we do, the 10/1 is great.

I replaces my original Lewmars with Spinnlocks two years ago and the holes lined up perfectly.