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Messages - WTunnessen

#61
Ron - United Diesel is still around but Baltimore Diesel is open on Saturday mornings, so I went there. 

They recognized the pump and said they have worked on them in the past, but usually they are very durable and rarely require service.  On Monday they called to let me know it was done. Since they had the repair kit (like what Robert mentioned) in stock, they were able to do job quickly.  They also confirmed there was a problem with the pump. 

To Robert's point, when I brought the pump in and described the symptoms, they asked me about the shut valve and even suggested taking the shutoff assembly apart to make sure there isn't any crude stuck somewhere there. Not sure I want go that far, but I will double the lever and cable connections when I re-install the pump.
#62
Luke at Hartge's said they've used Baltimore Diesel in Glenn Burnie in the past. I called Baltimore Diesel who thought they could rebuild it but need to see it first.  Plan to take the pump up there on Saturday AM.  Is there anything I should tell the shop other than the engine model and that its a KIKI brand PFR type injector pump with roller tappers?
#63
Looks like I might need to have the injector pump for my M25XP re-built.

Does anyone have any recommendations for diesel workshop in Maryland (western shore) or the Washington DC metro area that might be able to do it?

Unfortunately, in the process of replacing my injectors, two of the nozzles the injector pump rotated when I tried loosen the compression nut on the fuel line. After re-installing the injectors, there was a fuel leak around the nozzles. I also noticed a loss of fuel flow thru the middle injector. I wound up removing two of the valves completely since the compression nuts on the nozzles where completely frozen requiring a lot of PB blaster brute force to get off. I replaced the o-rings, re-installed the nozzles, and bled everything.

For some people, that procedure worked. However, I can not get the engine to turn over. It sounds fuel starved.  Additionally, while bleeding the injectors while cranking the engine, the fuel only seeped out of the injector compression nut rather than sprayed.  A boat neighbor helping thought there might be a lack of pressure. I'm not sure since I've never bled injectors before. The electric fuel pump is working.

Part of why I replaced the injectors was due to a lack of power and difficulty getting higher RPMs. The injectors have been suspect for years but the recent loss of power occurred during and after motor sailing in rough conditions. The engine would run fine for an hour and then lose power.  There was some crude in the filter but the symptoms I experienced were very similar to those Ron and others have described in their posts about injector pump issues.  I have a new fuel tank circa 2007 so I don't think there is a screen on the pick up line but I have not checked it. Fuel filters have all been changed & bled. However, I did disturb the injector pump nozzles and I have seen other posts that say that if that has happens, then the pump needs to be rebuilt.

If anyone has some other suggestions, please let me know.


#64
Main Message Board / marinepartsdepot.com
June 28, 2018, 02:40:07 PM
Curious to what other people's experience has been with this site/company since mine has not been good.

Having heard about them on this site and others as a source for discount hardware, I thought I'd check them out.  Placed an on-line order in April but never received anything.  They did charge my credit card (now disputing charge). I've tried emailing and calling but their voice mailbox is "full."  Upon checking the BBB profile, I've discovered I'm not the only person who has experienced this problem. So - be warned...
#65
You can pick up a AIS enabled VHF radio for under $400 at Defender.  I've found mine very helpful sailing through squalls with limited visibility on the Chesapeake Bay in the shipping channel last Thursday. It helped us spot freighters so we could get their bearings and speed and get out of their way. I'd say its worth the investment if your concerned.
#66
Main Message Board / Re: Cetol remover
May 18, 2018, 09:24:28 AM
I've tried eco / water base strippers but I don't like the mess and worry about getting stripper on the gel coat.    In end, I've found sanding it off to be the best option and given the time spent setting up drop cloths etc. and cleaning up - strippers did not save me any more time, which is my limiting factor. The grit you need will depend on the condition of the existing Cetol. 80 grit usually takes it off. Besure to tape in order not to scratch the get coat with the sand paper. If I'm just touching up, I'll use 120 or 180.
#67
RE: Stench I'll second the Pure Ayre. Works very well. I even use it on boat shoes if they start to get rank. You can buy it on-line.

If you don't have a fuel shut off value between the filter and the tank, consider installing one.
#68
Main Message Board / Re: Stemhead Fitting Rust
May 11, 2018, 02:28:23 PM
Everything looked fine on the inside so I'll consider this cosmetic.
#69
The I posted a picture in this thread that shows some old teak vs new refinished.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9863.0.html

#70
Main Message Board / Re: Location, location
May 01, 2018, 03:21:29 PM
The advantage of the Eastern Shore of Maryland is that from Phily, you only have to be on 95 for a short period, which mean less traffic issues. The traffic thru Delaware on 301 is not usually too bad since it does not go to the beaches. But I lived in Phily quite a few years ago, so things may have changed.
#71
Here's a picture that shows differences between old teak oil on original wood,  refinished with teak oil + polycrylic, and new teak finished with teak oil and polycrylic.  I'm not sure what brand of teak oil the PO used, but the picture shows how it ages. Perhaps this will help with original question about coloration.  Sanding helps. Random orbital sander attached to a shop vac makes a huge difference with dust control.  Of course you can't use it everywhere.
#72
Main Message Board / Stemhead Fitting Rust
May 01, 2018, 02:37:44 PM
I've noticed some rust along the slide of the stemhead fitting and some rust streaks.  See picture.  I recall reading that the bolts should be removed, inspected, and probably replaced.  But I am wondering if the entire fitting needs to be removed and re-bedded?

#73
Main Message Board / Re: Location, location
April 26, 2018, 07:37:35 PM
Weekend traffic might be a consideration. On the Chesapeake, Rock Hal, the Sassafrass, and Havre de Grace are popular ports with sailors from Phily. My yacht club - Chesapeake Yacht Club - has some great incentive offers to at track new members, but it's a ways from Phily on the West River south of Annapolis.
#74
I've been refinishing the oiled teak in my '88 by sanding down with 120 and 220 grit sand paper, then rubbing it with Star Brit teak oil followed by several coats of Minwax high gloss polycrylic.  So far I have been very pleased with the results.  Sanding the teak helps to lighten it up by removing the old carbonized teak oil which on my boat tends to get dull after a couple of years as well as darkens. HavingI already sanded and rubbed the teak before, I've decided to try something different.

Since I did re-rub the wood w/ teak oil, I am curious to see how it ages under the polycrylic.   Polycrylic is a water-based coating and drys clear unlike some polyurethanes that have a yellow tint.   What I like about the polycrylic is that it drys super fast which means you can put a couple coats on over the course of a few hours.  I usually put on 2 or 3 coats over 4 hours, then wait 24+ hours and then sand with 320 grit. Then put on 2 or 3 more coats with rubbing with a fine grit white 3M scotchguard pad between coats. The result is a good gloss and so far seems very durable.  Stuff is forgiving with sags and air bubbles but does dry fast when the humidity is low so you have to work fast.  But that means I can get the project done faster.  The down side is that it is thinner than oil varnish or polyurethanes, so you have to use more coats.
#75
I used the Vetus mounts and changed all four without pulling the engine. Do a search on engine mounts and you will see discussions on removing them one at time. There is also a discussion on which size to use. I bought mine at Defender.com.