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This topic has been moved to Question of the Month.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=6148.0

saw this on another site.  seems like it ought to work.  

"BTW some Dawn dishsoap in your motor bucket or garden hose if using "ears" does a fine job of getting the salt out. Old dude with an inboard taught me that and his motor appeared as "new" which simply isn't possible where I live. He also never had to change his exhaust manifolds and risers so there must be something to it. If running in a bucket I let it go for a bit then throw the hose in there to keep the water level up and slowly dilute it to just water."

Could easily do the same thing with the raw water system for the engine.

This site was featured on cruising world.com. 

http://links.bonniermarinegroup.com/ctt?kn=30&m=4703939&r=NDczMDU4NDE5MwS2&b=0&j=MTcwODA4NzI2S0&mt=1&rt=0>


Another place to look if you are shopping.  There is one '88 being auctioned, estimated value is $14k.  I can't get all the pictures to load, but the few I can see it looks like it needs a whole lot of TLC.  Looks stripped, sails, cushions, etc.  But they might be in storage, a call to the broker should answer that.

The rest of the boats are about in the same price range as those on Yachtworld.

Got about 16" at home, that's a lot for this part of Virginia.  Thankfully it didn't snow quite as hard at the marina about 35 miles further north.  Picture courtesy of Michael Shaner...Thanks!

I got this from another email forum I belong to.  These are orange horseshoe style life jackets.

Kent Adult Model 8830 (USCG Approval Number 160.055/184/0) in Lot 53W manufactured in October 2006
Kent Child Model 8820 (USCG Approval Number 160.055/150/0) in Lot 012T manufactured in March 2008.

The Coast Guard strongly recommends that vessel owners/operators using the PFDs listed above check each lifejacket or proper routing of the strap. Completely unwrap the primary strap to ensure it is free and capable of being adjusted for any wearer. The strap of the lifejacket must not be threaded through the fixed "D" ring. If routing is satisfactory, the strap may be wrapped around the life jacket and clipped to the fixed "D" ring for storage. If the strap is incorrectly threaded through the fixed "D" ring, the snap hook assembly should be carefully removed from the strap, the strap pulled out of the fixed "D" ring, and the snap hook assembly re-attached.

Snag at "D" ring Vessel owners/operators are also encouraged as part of general preventative maintenance to verify that all their PFDs are in fully serviceable condition with an inspection of the straps, components, fabric and flotation material. Any significant deterioration in condition or poorly functioning hardware indicates a replacement is necessary.

Please contact the manufacturer representative at the address below if additional information is needed.

Kent Sporting Goods Co.
433 Park Avenue S.
New London, OH 44851
Mr. Wayne Walters
Phone: (706) 769-1682)
E-mail: WWalters@kentwatersports.com

Link to the CG Bulletin that has pictures:  http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/workflow_staging/News/441.PDF

Gary Ambrose (Kije 1986 C34 # 215) asked me to post a PDF of the rough dimensions and power output of marine engines provided to him by Westerbeake.  Helpful if you are considering an engine swap.

It is attached here and also in the Engine "Also of Interest" section of the Wiki

A couple years ago in an attempt to grow the C34IA I started monitoring Yachtworld.com for C34 sales pending notifications.  When a notification popped up I would send the broker an email with an invitation for the new owners to visit the website and join the assoc.

New Owners:
Did you get the invitation?

If yes, did you know about the website/assoc before recieving it?

Did you join the C34IA or just become website members?

If you didn't join the Assoc, what can we change to increase membership?

Just curious if I should continue sending the invitations and we are always looking for ways to increase membership.

FYI, so far in 2010, there have been 54 used C34's listed as sales pending, I have no visibility of how many actually closed the deal.  I only send the invitation to buyers of used boats because new buyers automatically get the first year of membership paid by the dealer.

This topic has been moved to Question of the Month.

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I stopped by the Pompanette booth at the Annapolis Boat show to see if they happened to have any conversion drums to make the continous line 915 into a single line unit.  Michael Haber is the Product Manager for Hood Products.  He said no they did not, it was just too costly to maintain the old systems.  They are offering an upgrade package for owners with older Hood furlers.  A completely new roller furling system for $1100.  Looking at the the web site I think they are refering to their  H707 furling system that lists for $1595.  If you are interested give Michael a call at 813 865 2182 or email mhaber at pompanette dot com.

Over 100 people viewed, only 33 took the time to fill out the poll.  As suspected it's top heavy.

Mk1 20-30  0 (0%)
Mk1 30-40  1 (3%)
Mk1 40-50  9 (27.3%)
MK1 50-60  10 (30.3%)
MK1 60+  3 (9.1%)

MkII 20-30  0 (0%)
MKII 30-40  0 (0%)
MKII 40-50  2 (6.1%)
MKII 50-60  4 (12.1%)
MKII 60+  4 (12.1%)
 

The folks at the C36 site were kind enough to share with us this great write up about replacing the expensive Sherwood raw water pump with a much less expensive Oberdorfer.  On the M25 series engines the pumps are interchangable.  On the M35 series engines it involves a bit of surgery to pumps.  Nothing beyond the DIY level.  If interested take a look at in the engine, then cooling section of the Tech Wiki.

Thanks again to the C36 Assoc for sharing.

Link to the Wiki article:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Replacing_a_Sherwood_Water_Pump_with_an_Oberdorfer

My inflatable is approaching 10 years old.  The transom is starting to disintegrate/rot.  I was planning on just buying a new one next season, then I started pricing them.  

I'm thinking now about just replacing the entire transom to get a few more years out of it.  The Hypalon looks to be in good enough shape to last a few more seasons.  Anybody done this?  What kind of solvents do I need to disolve and clean the glue?  What kind of glue is used to reattach?  

Google found an old link that is supposed to descripe the process, but it no longer works.  I've asked for an updated link, will post if it comes through.

I'm thinking about doing a raft up for Southern Chesapeake Bay boats. Thinking either Sep 18th or 25th, I'm thining I want to keep it on the western shore, somewhere in the Mobjack or Fishing Bay.  I thought about Cape Charles, I don't anchoring is allowed so it would be at a marina. 

Any interest? Which is the better date? 

Now that the Hurricane season has kicked into gear will need to take that into consideration before final plans are made.

Ron, I don't want to compete with your Fleet 12 Raft up...what date was that?

Totally off topic but thought I would share.  I was getting ready to shell out some big bucks for new plastic lens for the headlights on one of my cars.  A friend at work turned me on to this kit from 3M.  Comes with everything you need except the drill to spin the disks.  About an hours work to do the four lights.  Cost at Napa, Advance Auto, etc is about $17.

If your lights are getting foggy, I highly recommend this product.  Meguiers also has a kit, could not find it locally, on line it is a bit more expensive.

I've been reading Ron's tales of eel grass (EG).  Didn't quite get the picture because I had never experienced it.  Not a virgin any more.  Had the family out on the Chesapeake for a week.  Because we had the time, explored the eastern shore.  EG was every where.  For you other coast sailer's, it is like a floating island of kelp, but much finer.  More like the weeds/bad grass that grows by splitting into a thousand runners that split at every knuckle. 

I left a dock, must have sucked a bunch of EG up while warming the engine/untieing lines.  Noticed the temp was running 10° hotter than normal, stopped in the middle of the bay (no wind) to investigate.  Pulled a significant plug of EG out of the strainer/intake.  Reprimed the the pump and restarted the engine.  Water flow out the back was not normal.  Shut down again and pulled the impeller apart.  The pictures show the condition of the Globe impeller.  It was less than 3 months old, never run dry.  It probably ran 20-25 minutes at less than full water flow and never saw temps above 170°.  Not buying the 15 minutes run dry.

To make matters worse, burned out my back up rubber impeller the same way the next day.  We were anchored in a creek with very brown water.  That's the way it is here because of the tanins and the lack of current.  2-3 inches of visability is normal.  After a few phone calls, we resorted to Towboat US.  Even though we have "unlimited" towing it took over an hour of talking with different supervisors to get approval for the 25 mile tow home.  There was not a impeller available within a 120 mile drive of where we were located and it was Sunday so it would have been an over night wait. They eventually agreed, our only claim in 11 years of boat and towing coverage. 

Had a new impeller delivered by a friend who picked it up on the way to the marina.  Finished the vacation, all in all a wonderful time.  Moral of the story. Either Globe has changed their manufacturing process or there is no such thing as a run dry impeller.  If you suspect you have had blockage of the raw water cooling system, check the impeller before you restart the engine.  Spares are a wonderful thing, wish I had 3 sets of impellers and Heat Exchanger gaskets instead of just 2.  It was my first "experience" in 9 years on the bay, there is always something to experience and learn.

Legal Disclaimer:  Not dissing Globe.  They are cheaper than comparable rubber impellers.  Just not buying the marketing claims any more.

On the west coast it is going to be July 9-11 at Catalina Island.  On the east coast Aug 20-22 at Solomon's Island.  Register at http://www.catalinayachts.com/events.cfm  near the top click on the link for the appropriate location.  Cost for the east coast is $145 a person.

If you haven't been to one, you owe it to yourself to attend at least once.  Frank, Gerry and Sharon put on a great event.  The price includes dinner (and usually drinks) on Friday and Saturday nights, breakfast and lunch on Sat, breakfast of Sunday, a bag of goodies, door prizes, prize drawings, etc.  Informative lectures by the vendors that supply Catalina (usually with more give aways).  The loot I've collected at past events more than pays the cost of admission.  One lucky couple gets a week free at the Catalina house in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.  The folks from Garhaurer are usually there, you can play with the hardware and purchase if desired.  There is usually a seminar on diesel maintenance, the last one I attended it was done by the owner of Westerbeake.  Charleston Spars, Harken, and Raymarine are usually in attendance.   Kind of like a mini boat show dedicated to Catalinas.

Bunch of manuals that may be of help.  Wooden Boat Restoration and several on fiberglass repair.  Presented by the owners of West System Epoxy.

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=99649

The link has been added to the Manual section of the wiki.

One of my winter projects was to replace the engine exhaust hump hose.  I had noticed a slight water leak coming out the bottom that tightening the clamps would not stop.  Visually it looked ok, but as I took it out I realized how hard and brittle it was.  I was concerned about the motor mounts because of vibrations but they were tight and the rubber remains in good shape.  I was amazed during my first trip how much quieter the engine was with the new soft hump hose.  If you haven't converted yet, for about $30 and a half hour of work it is a great upgrade.  

When you think about it, it all makes sense. I should have realized the heat and age stiffened up an all ready stout hose.  Wriggling my hand back there and giving a squeeze rather than just a visual check would discovered the problem earlier.  I'm a bit surprise that it didn't cause an exhaust riser problem.

Very interesting article on heat exchanger cleaning in the C47 section of the Feb Technotes.  Recommends the use of product called Rydlyme Marine.

The MSDS sheet says it' active ingredient is Aqueous HYDROGEN CHLORIDE that is environmentally friendly.  Might be a good alternative to the old standby CLR (Lactic Acid) or muriatic acid.

Supposed to be available at most chandeliers or on line.

I was thumbing through the equivalent of Mainsheet for Porsche owners sitting in a waiting room today.  In the tech area there was a question about repairing plastic gas tanks.  I don't know if they are the same material as our plastic tanks, but the tech editor recommended Dow Corning RTV 730 to seal the leaks.  Said he had successfully repaired several tank using it.

Anybody heard of this RTV 730?

In the previous thread I asked how many folks would be interested in converting their continous line furler to a single line if we can get a group buy from Hood.  Please PM me if you are interested.  If you have other non C34 owners in your marina with the same furler, please ask them too, the bigger the group, the better chance we have of getting a discount. 

No need to respond again if you all ready have.

I've been fighting a low power situation for a couple seasons.  I think my prop may be slightly overpitched, but there is something else going on.  Injectors were new last season. Fuel tank has been cleaned, screen is off.  Did pick up a bad batch of fuel a couple years ago, after changing a couple racors the filters since have had their annual change before fouling.  I was beginning to think it was the injector pump, similiar to the problem Ron had a few years ago (see the Technotes).  I sent the local Kubota service folks a note, this is their response.

I FEEL YOU STILL HAVE A FUEL ISSUE WITH ENGINE. BLOW BACK WITH AIR FROM FUEL FILTER TO TANK TO REMOVE ANY ADDITIONAL BLOCKAGE THAT MAY RESTRICT FUEL FLOW. CHECK FUEL PUMP, BUT I DONT THINK YOU HAVE AN INJECTION PUMP PROBLEM. THIS IS VERY UNCOMMON ON A KUBOTA ENGINE. ALSO EVEN CHECK FUEL FILTER AGAIN FOR VARNISH OR DEBIS BECAUSE OF FUEL TANKS PREVIOUS CONDITION. HOPE THIS WILL BE HELPFUL.

From this my list of things to do when I recommission this spring has grown.
Blow out line from Racor to Tank, using dingy pump or compresser.
Electric fuel pump.  Check/clean filter, pump should put out 3-7 psi and pump at least 2 gph
Clean internal passages on Racor and engine mounted filter brackets, new filters.

Hopefully that will help, will report back.

Stumbled across this web site on another sailing site I monitor, the "free guides" in the blue menu on the left side of the page look helpful.  I have looked at the first article on engine surveys, well written, easy to understand, think it will give you a good sense of an engine's status.  Might be a good site to add to your favorites.

http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm

I've got a 1990's vintage Nissan 2cycle 5 hp outboard for the tender.  The ethanol gas (with sta-bil) plays havoc with the carb.  Seem to rebuild/clean it at least once, been twice this season.  The carb bowl gasket is a unique shape, rubber, not paper. Experience shows that it will leak if reused.  The carb kits are expensive, in the $40-60 range.  Anybody know of a source for cheaper kits or where I can just get the bowl gasket?  Not having any luck with the local dealers or on line.  Thankfully some local marinas are now offering gas without ethanol, so maybe I'll be in luck next season.

I was rereading the May 2009 Technotes today at lunch.  In Mikes article about the systems behind the walls of the aft cabin I noticed for the first time the 2x6(?) boards that are between the the aft water tank and the cockpit floor.  I don't remember having them on mine, curious about their purpose.  Or maybe I'm just getting forgetful.

Saw this on the Sailing Anarchy site, passing it on.

I was wondering this week why all the currents around the PNW were going so badly awry. Come to find out, Garmin chartplotter antennas have a rollover glitch that ocurred last weekend. Check your system time and date. If you're back 20 years to Jan 5/6 1990 you'll need to switch over your source from Garmin to NMEA. It's easy-- once you know the deal. Handhelds don't seem to be affected.

Go to your menu.
Select GPS
Change source from Garmin to NMEA

Problem solved.

Stumbled across this list of on line manuals looking for something else.  Link is also in the manual section of the Tech Wiki.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/on-line-shop-manuals-8758.html

Curious about the sails.  It appears that the main is loose footed, kind of unusual on a std rigged boat.  How big is the genoa?  The clew on my 150 is way forward of the one in the picture.  From the caption on Flickr he does well racing so they may be racing designs.

Please cast your vote.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5240.msg32256.html#msg32256

Please help the administrators keep this board current.  When you have sold or found your C34 please post that the deal is done so we can delete the thread. 

Thanks for your help

Please help the administrators keep this board current.  When you have sold or found your needed item please post that the deal is done so we can delete the thread. 

Thanks for your help.

My latest project is to install a stern shower.  I found the box and faucet assembly, missing the hose and hand sprayer at a marine yard sale for $10.  It is distributed by Scandvik, I thought what a deal.  Looked in Defender for the missing pieces, $114 for just the hose!!!  A little more research revealed that the input lines are 3/8" NPT threads and the output is 3/8" BPT (British Pipe Threads).  The US standards seems to be smaller for sink sprayer hoses and 1/2" for RV shower hoses. 

I'll figure out and post a work around, just beware if you are buying products from Scandvik, especially plumbing to double check for compatibility before buying.  Not dissing Scandvik, they are well represented at all the boat shows and have some great products.

Even us experienced folks can learn new tricks.  I reefed for the first time this weekend.  Normally when the wind picks up it is always on the nose, rather than tack, we normally just put the sails away and motor.  Had some guests that really wanted to sail, so I thought I'd give it a try.  I have a single reef line through the clew.  Pulled the sail up to the just below the first reef, inserted the tack cringle into the hook, pulled the clew tight with the small winch on the boom, finished raising the main and off we went.  Had a great sail in 18-25 apparent   It was much easier to accomplish than I would have thought.  So those of you that haven't tried yet, don't be afraid, give it a try at your first opportunity

Both the brackets have seperated from the 3" HX on my M25xp.  I left the note that had the distance between the bolt holes on the boat by mistake.  There is too much slop in the markings of the mounting area, really don't feel comfortable getting it repaired without knowing the correct distance.  I've checked with all the local suppliers and Torreson, they haven't been able to come up with it in a weeks time.  If anybody happens to be working in that area, can you post the dimension please. I'm sure this is not the last time this will happen, good to have it on record.   

New batteries are on the spring project list.  As well as a battery wiring update.  I've got everybodies notes, still planning and referencing.  One think I have decided is to move the starting battery to the aft cabin with it's own switch.  It is probably going into the void under the settee.  I know more power is better, but I think I might be space limited.  What is the minimum CCA needed to reliably get the engine started?

May the holiday season find you and your family well and in good spirits!! 

I just spotted Santa dropping off boat presents on the s/v Segovia, hope your boat gets all the new goodies it deserves next year!

Merry Christmas and a joyous New Year to all.

Reposted to draw attention. 

We are trying to update and redesign the C34 web page.  Our webmaster is in need of help, between work and new babies he doesn't have enough free time to do it by himself.  This is not hard, knowledge of some HTML, page design and the ability to FTP are all that is needed.  It is not a long term project.   Anybody have the expertise and time to give him some help? 

email me kenandvic@cox.net or Dave Sanner Sanner@big.net for details.

This topic has been moved to Archives.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=4571.0

This topic has been moved to Archives.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=4494.0

I saw this in a magazine, first time I have run across anything like it.  Go to www.masepoxies.com and watch the video on nonskid repair.  Looks like it is a great product.  I didn't get as far as pricing.

About 2 years ago I bought a Raymarine C series chartplotter/radar.  The radar I replaced was at the Navsta, so the new one went there for the first year until I got my pedestal guard modified this spring.  I did not hook up the GPS or buy the map software until I moved it to the cockpit.  Got it all installed, inserted the map card and discovered the chart plotter would not work because the Chartplotter software was too old.  After a month delay I finally got the correct Compact Flash card to upgrade the software.  Fire it up and the Radar doesn't work   Since we have had several lightning strikes in the vicinity of the marina I figured that was the cause and called the local Raymarine Tech to verify.  He verified the software load, did some diagnostics that pointed to a bad cable.  Brought a new test cable to the boat, same fault, must be the scanner unit, which he took off the mast and took the the shop for testing/repair.  He plugged it into his test bench and the radar worked like a champ.  After some trial and error testing he determined the software upgrade from Raymarine has a fault in it.  He is going to reinstall the scanner and down grade my software to the last known good one and I should be good to go   Hopefully Raymarine will own up to the error and pay my bill.  If you are using a Raymarine chartplotter I would not upgrade to software version 4.29 the cause of my problem.

I know Hurricane Fay dumped a whole lot of water on Florida, did it help your water level?  Looks like you might get some more from Hanna.

I've seen the ads and articles about "Prop Speed"  an antifouling paint like compound for props and shafts, but until today had not heard any owners reports.  The stuff is expensive so I didn't want to be the guinea pig.  A report on another site indicates that sport fishing operator in Fl used it on his fleet and hasn't had a barnacle in over 3 years!

Might have to give the stuff a try the next time I pull for a bottom job.

Not to start another debate on the correct sized fuel filters, enough has been written on them.  But here is a different take on the issue.

At the Catalina Rendezvous we had a Yanmar rep speak.  He was very emphatic that the primary (Racor)must be no smaller than a 30 micron.  The reason being that the engine requires a lot of fuel for cooling/lubing the fuel system components, finer filters clog too quickly robbing the engine of the necessary fuel flow.  I only mention this for the owners of newer boats that may still have some time on the engine warrenty.  The engine will probably last for ever, but don't void your warrenty.

He also mentioned about 5 times to use a cetane booster and a lubricity enhancer with every fill up, they chemically mix with and become a part of the fuel.  The BioBor type products are also necessary, but do not chemically mix.  He said research has shown that most owners fill the tank up at about the half empty point.  If a full dose of Bio product is used, the concentration will eventually get too high.  He recommeneds adding the Bio product on every other or every third full up. The exception being if you suspect dirty fuel use it.  As has been mentioned on the board a couple of times, he recommeded "buy what the truckers buy".

I've got a pair of group 29 (I think) wet cells I use as my house bank.  They are in the later stages of life.  After several charge/equalization cycles the best I can get is a Specific Gravity in the white (~12.5) range.

I have always thought the chemical battery additives to extend life/rejuvenate batteries were in the snake oil family.  But I was talking to an experienced cruiser this weekend that swears he bought some "stuff" at Wal Mart that restored and kept his batteries alive for a couple years.  He couldn't remember the name of the "stuff", is supposed to email me this week.

Anybody got any experience with these kinds of additives?

Missed the Sailstice a couple weeks ago but planning on watching fireworks from the cockpit this weekend.  You'all be safe and have a good holiday

When I pulled the boat a couple weeks ago I noticed that the prop was hard against the strut.  After a bit of cleaning I noticed the strut was actually worn away about 1/16".  Gave the prop a hard pull and it popped back to it's normal position with about 1/2" clearance to the strut.  When I got the safety wire loose the set screws were only finger tight!  Bad on me, I figured with them safety wired they would be tight so I haven't ever checked them.

Sign up for the East Coast Rendezvous was just posted at:

http://www.catalinayachts.com/rendezvous.cfm?part=EAST

If you have not attended you owe yourself a visit.  Informative, fun, great door prizes and give aways.  Food is always great.  Where else can you get 2.5 days alone with the owners/designers of Catalina Yachts; Frank Butler, Gerry  Douglas and Sharon Day.  They are very approachable, love to talk to owners.  Questions, feel free to PM me.

I have thought for a couple seasons that my prop was over pitched.  I can only get about 70% of the max neutral RPMs when in gear.  The prop manufactures says he has sold several of the same size and pitch to other M25xp owners who do not have a low rpm problem.  I confirmed the prop's size and pitch. 

So am I over pitched or is the engine not producing enough power?  New injectors made no difference, fuel filters are clean.  I've run injector cleaner through the system.  Clean prop or dirty prop results are about the same. 

The prop manufacturer suggested: "Is the exhaust riser clear and the back flow valve working and not stuck part way open? This is a common ailment with the Universal engines. Is the Exhaust hose clear and not kinked somewhere?" 

No kinks in the exhaust hose, as far as the riser and hose being clear I get good water flow out the exhaust, I would assume that means it is clear.  Do we have a back flow valve?

I've thought about the fuel injector pump. But power does not seem to be declining. Suggestions?