Messages

Not sure about stern rails, but when my bow rails got smoked in hurricane Sandy, I ordered from CD. Even the rail foot holes were perfectly aligned! Shocked at that!
Regards,
Ed

I use Scotchbrite pads. Seems to work good. Any concerns with that?
Regards,
Ed

Tie it off to the opposite rail?
Regards,
Ed

Hi SS,
If you are considering a new prop, I suggest checking out a folding prop. I got more motoring speed as well as sailing speed.
Also, as others are indicating, be sure to check you actual tach rpms with a laser device.

Regard,
Ed

Phil,
I've had that problem in the past. The first time it was resolved when I replaced the engine control panel (tach had quit), which of course included a new start button and key switch. The 2nd time was with the new panel. The wire from the key switch to the start button on the back of the panel had come loose. No problem since after tightening.
Checking the back panel connections and replacing the start button might be good, quick, cheap steps to try. Good luck.
Regards,
Ed

Geoff,
I use a Loos gauge and like Ron says, it's good to get equal tensioning. To that I'd add that it helps to get you in the ballpark of appropriate tensioning if you are not comfortable with your own sense of what feels right. If you search the site, someone posted a spreadsheet of tensions plus other useful info by each stay and size. I keep a hard copy of that with my gauge.

Regards,
Ed

Hi Dale,
I used Peel Away years ago on a build up of layers, a mix of hard and ablative coats. I had to apply twice and still had to scrape. It was a lot of work and not as simple as I had hoped. A few years ago when I decided to move to a non copper, solvent free paint, I wanted to start fresh, so I had the bottom blasted instead. It came out great, no gelcoat damage. Followed with a new barrier coat, then the new paint.

Regards,
Ed

Brian,
A few thoughts;
You said the "main bilge" had diesel in it. Did you mean the section directly aft of the mast step? I expect it would have been in the section aft of that one, unless it somehow got on the bilge pump hose and trickled along it into the bilge??
When I had a pin hole leak in my tank a number of years ago (which I replaced), the thinking at the time was that if there is water in the metal tank, it attacks the welds in the tank creating the pinholes.
On another occasion where I had a small leak, it was due to filling the tank too full in the fall, and it expanded when the weather got warmer, forcing fuel out the sender cover. Pumping out a few gallons and snugging the sender cover resolved the issue.
Also, did you check the tank vent hose to be sure it was intact?
Good luck with the investigation!
Regards,
Ed

PS Noah - got a chuckle from your ice in the bilge comment : :mrgreen! Yeah, with mast up, the internal mast trickle of water will most definitely freeze up.

Ross, also remove the raw water hose at the HX end and check the inside of the HX nipple for a blockage. I've had it happen a couple of times. It builds from the edges inward, slowly enclosing the center. Stu has noted it previously too and thinks it is salt. I thought it may be calcium, but never tested it. You can break it up easily with a screwdriver.
Good luck,
Ed

Switch,
If you are in Charleston, then you should check out the fleet that is in the vicinity, ( Boston Sailing Center maybe?). They sail all winter. I always see them out on the weekends whenever I'm in Boston. I'll bet you could catch on as crew.

Regards,
Ed

Was the engine running at the time? If so, low rpms will cause the engine shaking. If the engine wasn't running, you should have the transmission in reverse to prevent the prop from spinning.

Regards,
Ed

Whether mold, mildew or algae, the traditional cleaner is bleach and tsp in a water solution. However, Practical Sailor made a case in the past year or so for tsp, borax and baking soda as an all purpose cleaner. Saves having the exposure to bleach fumes. I've started using it and it works. Although you may need the high octane solution! Try it first, if it doesn't work, go to the bleach solution.

Regards,
Ed

Paul,
I agree with your comments on mast bend regarding sail shape, etc. But that is under active conditions. I was referring to an "at rest" state, such as back on the mooring, where presumably the backstay tension would be eased back to tuned levels, allowing the mast to return to an "in column" state.
Regards,
Ed

Sorry, I should have directed that to Fatamorgana, who noted the forward rake of the mast.
Regards,
Ed

I'm by no means a rigging expert, but the fact that you have some forward bend in the upper part of the mast says to me that the mast isn't properly tensioned. My observation with my own is, more mast pumping when it's been out of column. Once realigned, the pumping goes away, except for when an occasional big gust hits. Of course, I'm on a mooring, so that may impact the frequency.
Regards,
Ed