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Messages - Ed Shankle

#406
Main Message Board / batteries
June 22, 2004, 10:58:48 AM
Battery experts, tell me if this makes sense;
Charged up my T-105 6 volt house batteries, got 3-4 balls floating on the hydrometer test, installed the batteries in TailWind and nothing worked! (yes, the main switch was on).
Double checked with a multimeter, and it read 0 volts! Since these are 6 volt batteries linked in series, the contacts were made on the positive pole of one battery and the negative pole of the other. The batteries were wired up in place. An additional hydrometer test gave the same results.
Is it possible to get these opposing results or are there other factors I'm not considering?

thanks,
Ed
#407
Main Message Board / fuel tank leak
May 18, 2004, 08:28:37 AM
I've got a leak in the fuel tank; appears to be coming from the welded seem and potentially from a couple of spots.
I've drained & pulled the tank.
Searching the site, it looks like any discussion on the topic has been around cleaning and repairing the tank. I'm wondering if it should be replaced. Any have insight to a source in the Northeast and price?
What are the thoughts on re-welding?

thanks,
Ed
#408
Main Message Board / water heater/winddirection trans.
February 14, 2004, 05:31:09 AM
Jim,
Can you tell me more about the ATN Climber Rig? I'm looking for something to get me up the mast besides my wife cranking me up on a halyard.

thanks,
Ed
#409
Main Message Board / Deck Organizer
August 01, 2003, 07:11:19 AM
I've replaced them, but didn't have too much of a problem unscrewing them. I assumed there is a nut glassed in place in the coach roof; if so, that could be a concern if you really have to torque the screw in an attempt to get it out.
As far as replacements go, I and probably everyone else in the association, recommend Garhauer ball bearing organizers. they are reasonably priced and a significant improvement.
Good luck
Ed
#410
Main Message Board / overheating
June 15, 2003, 05:49:50 PM
Guess I got my terms a little mixed up. I did use the Jabsco pump between the housing inlet and the coolant reservoir. Seemed like a good flow. I checked the raw water (salt) impeller today, and it was ok. Of course that created another problem. A screw into the Sherwood pump stripped. It's a brass housing, so I guess that is not surprising. This is the 2nd screw that has happened with. Luckily, a slightly longer screw took care of the problem. Anyway, back to the overheating; I ran the engine today for about 1 hr at 1500 rmp, occasionally up to 25 to try and push any air pockets through. It stayed between 165 and 170 degrees, but that still is too high for for neutral, no load. So something still isn't right. I'll try taking the thermastat out and if that doesn't change things, I guess it's out with HX again.
#411
Main Message Board / overheating
June 14, 2003, 05:08:03 PM
Ok mechanics out there, I need some suggestions.
I took the heat exchanger out for a cleaning. Repalced the hoses While I was at it. After reinstalling, the engine overheated. No surprise. So next I pumped the fresh water side with the mini Jabsco pump, as per the instructions in the FAQ's. Still overheated. Next I replaced the thermastat. Here's where it gets interesting. On the mooring with no engine load, the temp got up to 165 - 170. Usually with no load it wouldn't get past 130 - 140. Normally it doesn't get higher than 165 running at 2500 rpm under load. But at least it wasn't overheating. Kept checking it, and it stayed steady for about 45 minutes. Then when I wasn't checking so frequently, the engine alarm goes off. It was overheating.
The hoses that should have felt warm were warm. The raw water out the exhaust seemed ok, but I didn't notice it after the alarm went off, I just shut the engine down right away.
It's a m25xp.
What do I try next?

thanks,
Ed
#412
For getting the old hose off, I just cut it off in the middle, allowing me to torque and cut each end separately. To put the new hose on, I put a little vasoline around the inside of the hose to help it slide on. Definitly a small space to work in!
Good luck
#413
Main Message Board / Forward Hatch replacement
April 20, 2003, 09:46:12 AM
Hi all,
I'm looking to replace the forward hatch this season. Is the general concensus that the Lexan hatch from Cruising Concepts is still the way go?

thanks,
Ed
Tail Wind #866
#414
Main Message Board / Engine Mounts
April 22, 2003, 05:17:30 AM
Tom,
Do you get the heavy vibration at low (700 - 900rpm) that others have reported about the k50s?

thanks,
Ed
#415
Main Message Board / Engine Mounts
April 20, 2003, 10:07:50 AM
Hey Ron,
Did Catalina provide any advice regarding the Vetus K50s?
I'm planning on replacing my mounts this season, but I'm a little hesitant based on the comments about vibrations at low idles. I saw Charlie Holder's comments on the R&D mounts and asked him for some more info.
After sending that request to Charlie, I was wondering if Catalina had offered any preference or advice.
thanks,
Ed
Tail Wind #866
#416
Main Message Board / winter mast storage
October 11, 2002, 11:16:58 AM
I know this is a tangent from the original question, I'm more responding to Ron's inquiry;
I don't pull the mast annually, but do it every few years for inspection and maintenance. I concur with Ron, you need to get it higher than the pulpits for good sloughing of snow and water. Also, that is one heavy mast. Add to that the weight of snow and you get a lot of pressure on the pulpits. I'd suggest either building wooden saw horses for the height needed for on deck storage, or store it on the ground, raised on normal sized saw horses (reinforced of course). You can build an inexpensive ridge rail and frame from PVC pipes to support your tarp, or simply have it shrink wrapped, in which case the "wrapper" will build a frame from strapping.
I've gone the PVC way with a tarp. Going on 5 years with the same tarp, whether mast up or mast down.

Ed
Tailwind
#866
#417
Main Message Board / Sherwood pump
May 24, 2002, 10:10:45 AM
There's an expression about the right tool that eludes me right now, but I think you get my drift.
I too gnashed my teeth over the reverse screws, but ultimately found the closed end box wrench with the offset the right tool. Now it's only a few minutes to change over.

Ed
#418
Main Message Board / leak
December 28, 2001, 08:28:58 AM
I'll be interested in what you discover. I have a similar leak; port side under the forward port window. It leaks from where the wood strip is screwed into the liner. There is some separation between the liner and the strip, so I can see the opening. Only leaks a little water, less than an ounce, on a port tack; and only after we've had some rain. I've rebedded the port window, chain plates, stanchions and caulked the boot. The only thing I haven't done is rebed the grab rail. There is no sign of drips or rust from the grab rail screws so I doubt it is coming from there.
I'm considering drilling a small hole in the horizontal section of the liner, just below where it leaks, so that if there is any puddling in there it will flow out.
As I said, I'll be interested in what you discover.

Ed
#419
Main Message Board / winch maintenance
December 11, 2001, 10:22:35 AM
Ever notice how one project creates another?
A couple of years ago I decided to maintain the primaries. After taking off the housing, I realized I couldn't slide out the gears due to the custom teak "tops" on the coaming (about 3/8's high). So rather than take off the base, I chiseled bevels into the teak and varnished them. Only the teak on one side of the winches needed to be done, but that didn't look very good, so I beveled the pieces on the opposite sides as well. Actually, now the teak pieces look better!
I'm assuming the winches had never been done before due to this problem and the seal between the base and coaming looking original and the remnants of grease being more like beeswax.
Also, I used Ron's idea of the box with the cutout. Works like a charm; saved me a pawl!

Ed
#420
Main Message Board / shaft replacement
October 31, 2001, 07:56:03 AM
I had my yard replace the shaft and cutless last spring. Add me to Ron's list of people who had the shaft removed with the rudder in place. It wasn't easy, but with a clean shaft and some grease, it works. A tip; on the install, slip the cutless onto the new shaft after passing it thru the shaft bracket and once the shaft is fully in position, push the cutless into place in the bracket. This gives you some wiggle room to get past the rudder.

Ed