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Messages - Ed Shankle

Pages: 1 ... 26 27 [28]
406
Main Message Board / engine coolant
« on: October 30, 2001, 09:23:27 AM »
Ok engine guru's; I need your help. Preparing Tail Wind for the winter, I drained and replaced the coolant. After starting up and running for a few minutes, the temp started climbing, so I shut it down at 180 degrees. Figured there was an air pocket. After allowing it time to cool down, I started it up again, and throttled up to 2800 rpm's a few times, as the manual instructs, to move the air pocket thru the system. Opened the vent on the thermostat a couple of times and only got coolant. Still the temp climbed, so I shut it down again. Tried this a few times with no success.
 The raw water side was working fine, so no coincidence factor there. Since I was hauled out yesterday, this is now a spring project.
 The possible problems are, as I see it, a stubborn air pocket, or coincidentally, a stuck thermostat or broken water pump.
 Thoughts?
 
 thanks,
 Ed

407
Main Message Board / sail storage
« on: October 05, 2001, 12:52:24 PM »
Some marinas require that the sails be removed before haulout to avoid problems like unfurling.
 Even if there aren't any, your genny will take a beating from sun and weather.
 I view the winter as good time to turn my sails over to the local Doyle's loft. They wash inspect, repair (there are always some threads needing replacement)and store for the season. Prices are reasonable and you avoid the crunch in the spring if you find a problem at launching time.

408
Main Message Board / bottom paint
« on: October 22, 2001, 10:23:13 AM »
Mike, another paint to consider is Micron CSC Extra, with Biolux. It's an ablative.
 I've been using Micron all along; it;s great on the hard growth, but I have still been getting a fair coat of slime. This year they came out with the Biolux addition and it has made a significant difference.
 Good stuff, not cheap.
 
 Ed

409
Main Message Board / raw water pump
« on: October 09, 2001, 08:57:16 AM »
I had to replace the raw water pump 2 years ago. Had the Oberdorfer, and Hanson Marine replaced it with the new Sherwood. I too cursed the backwards design with the screws. I have found, however, that a closed end wrench, the one that has about a 10-15 degree tilt, works great to access the nuts.
 I don't know if the pump design is any different on the 35. I have an 25XP. According to Hanson, the new design Sherwood is supposed to be much better then either the old design Sherwood and the Oberdorfer.

410
Main Message Board / packing replacement
« on: September 25, 2001, 06:21:42 AM »
You'll need 2; one to hold the packing nut and one to loosen and tighten the locking nut.

411
Main Message Board / alternator/regulator
« on: August 30, 2001, 08:01:39 AM »
Latest news;
 The regulator was gone and needs to be replaced, as John suspected. Of course the model is obsolete and the replacement is more sophisticated and has a different wiring harness. (my interpretation; more things that can go wrong). The alternator tested ok, but I'm having it rebuilt anyway. It's out, it's at the shop, might as well do some preventative maintenance.
 Looking to install this weekend.
 
 Ed

412
Main Message Board / alternator/regulator
« on: August 27, 2001, 06:25:31 PM »
Ok John, I've got more info.
 The alternator dia. is 2.5" as you suspected. Hard to accurately measure the width; seems like 11/16ths at the top, but 3/8ths inside. All the pulley widths appeared to be the same. The crankcase pulley is 5 1/4" dia. and the water pump pulley is 4"
 The belt was 25/64" wide (labeled). Close enough to 7/16" to use my spare?
 The alternator seemed to pass the spin test, but just in case, it (75 amp Balmar model 91-75)is off being rebuilt and the regulator (Balmar ARSII)is being tested.
 Another major piece of info. that I'm embarrassed to admit is that I discovered the house batteries weren't holding a charge after all. My hydrometer had only 1 ball floating in each cell! (2 6 volt T-105's in series). I guess this added to the misery. The starting batteries were ok. So, I now also have 2 new batteries in the garage, waiting to be installed next weekend, with everything else.
 Any final advice on the belt width? Seems like I'd have to make a bunch of changes to move up to a 1/2".
 
 thanks for all the good info,
 Ed

413
Main Message Board / alternator/regulator
« on: August 23, 2001, 06:05:33 AM »
John,
 Thanks for all the info. As usual, it gets more complex the more you learn.
 I don't know the diameter of the alternator pulley, I'll check this weekend.
 Sounds like you recommend that I should move up to a 1/2" belt and size the alternator pulley to accomodate that? I assume then that the diameter and width of the crankshaft and water pump pulleys on the m25xp will support that? I'll measure those this weekend as well.
 Sounds like I'll be replacing an alternator, regulator and belt.
 
 Ed

414
Main Message Board / alternator/regulator
« on: August 22, 2001, 07:31:28 AM »
John, thanks for the info.
 I didn't think to check the temp of the batteries. But the volt meter on the cockpit panel showed 16 volts.
 Also, I assume the batteries were not depleted, as the previous day the amp meter showed charging at about 15 amps, which is usual when the batteries haven't been heavily discharged.
 I'll try your alternator spin test when I'm at the boat this weekend. I don't think the belt was loose since I check it regularly. That's why I was leaning towards the regulator as the potential problem, figuring it forced the belt to slip because it stuck the alternator at a hard charge.
 Stu, my bracket curves down to the right (like a hockey stick). I assume this is the newer bracket design.
 
 Ed
 
 [This message was edited by Ed,       Tail Wind  #866 on August 22, 2001 at 07:46 AM.]

415
Main Message Board / alternator/voltage regulator
« on: August 21, 2001, 11:35:59 AM »
Lately the alternator has been squealing for a minute or 2 upon start up then it goes away. This weekend, it didn't stop and my amp meter showed it charging at 100 amps at 2000rpms and 75 amps at 1500 rpms. The alternator (75 amp Balmar)was also very hot and slightly smoking at 2000rpms.
 My guess is a stuck voltage regular. What do you think?

416
Main Message Board / speed
« on: July 20, 2001, 10:00:42 AM »
I use Micron CSC ablative bottom paint. The latest version has a biocide which so far seems to be helping to keep the slim down.
 3 blade prop repitched last year to 10. Polished and coated with clear lower unit antifouling paint this year. New stainless shaft and cutlass bearing this year.
 
 Tail Wind #866

417
Main Message Board / boat speed
« on: July 18, 2001, 05:28:11 PM »
How about engine speed? I only get about 5kts (GPS) at 2400 rpm's. And if it gets choppy, it drops right off.

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