Messages

Jeff,
There was a post with the tensioning recommendations; try looking for it again. If you can't find it, I'll make a copy of mine for you. I've got it printed out and stowed on board. I can either fax it to you or hook up with you. I'm at Hawthorne Cove Marina in Salem.

Ed

I'm not so sure the vent filter is the way to go. If you check out the book referenced, I think the author doesn't recommend a vent filter, as it impedes air flow. I tried the filter for a couple of seasons and it didn't seem to help. However, I have since removed it, changed out the vent hose and altered the the path of the hose slightly, taking out the right angle so there would be a smoother up flow. This required some redrilling of the panel that the hose passes through. Also have been using the K.O. product referenced in the book. The combination has helped. I also think I have a saturated tank that I should replace, but the aroma is low grade enough so it isn't a priority yet.
I also think that regular use actually helps, as it introduces oxygen to the tank, which the "good" bacteria need. An anerobic state is what the "bad" bacteria like and those are the ones that create the aroma.

You still have to deal with your rusting components; clean them up and spray with some Boeing T-9.

Ed

I'm one of the members who took advantage of the special offer end of last year to buy the lower unit of the SL to replace the old CD lower unit. I've done the installation and am looking for advice and guidance on the initial furling line wrap and headsail hoist and furl.
The manual that accompanied the unit didn't provide any instruction on that topic and I figure there is some technique that would be good to know.

thanks,
Ed

Just to clarify, is there a particular brand of Techron for diesel systems?
What I found at NAPA made no reference to engine type. Is this stuff ok for both gas and diesel? The guys at the store weren't sure.

thanks,
Ed

I did that a few years back, but didn't do a first coat of hard bottom paint, as Ron recommends, just went to 2 coats of ablative.
Ron, what's the rationale for the 1st coat of hard paint? When I did mine, I didn't do the keel, just the hull, since the previous owner had switched over to a fin from a wing the prior year, and so it already had a new barrier coat and new coat of hard bottom paint. So I simply added ablative over that. What has happened over the few years since is that I have to scrap different patches of the keel each year, but virtually have to do nothing to the hull except repaint. It seems to me that over time, the hard bottom paint flakes off, requiring scrapping and sanding. Ron, do you experieince that with your method?

Ed

Steve,
What is your engine size and what are your new prop dimensions?
The results sound great!

Ed

Also check your fuel tank. It may be dripping down the hull and working it's way to bilge.

Ed

I just spoke with the folks at Select Plastics in CT. this week. They do the replacement of the Lexan and also provide the hinge replacement.
If you want to replace the lens it's $405.
You send them the hatch cover, they confirm the work, and return it supposedly (I haven't done it yet) in 2-3 wks.
They also said that replacing the entire hatch will be more work than it appears at first, as the holes in the new hatch are not in the same alignment as the old ones.
You'll find them on the net: www.selectplastics.com

Ed

Ron,
Yes, the added weight on that side makes sense; guess I thought it wouldn't significantly alter the compression. I am more concerned about it since it exceeds the max compression in the specs for the K50's.
I measured it by lining up another mount next to it and measuring the difference in the height of the bottom edge of the metal "cap".
I called Vetus tech service and they are sending out another and want this one returned so they can check it out.

Ed

Worked on installing the Vetus K-50's this weekend, and I have a question for those of you that have previously done it.
I followed the procedure of cutting out the old mount and replacing with the new Vetus, one at a time instead of lifting the engine off the mounts.
The new forward port mount compressed more than the other 2 I installed(3 is as far as I got yesterday). It's about a 5mm compression and the specs say max is 4mm. It seems like the engine is either heavier on the port side or I have a defective mount. Did anyone else experience this?

thanks,
Ed

I've used Interlux varnish (Schooner) for the topsides and cockpit sole, with good results. I'm in the Northeast and get a full season from it. I haven't tested to see how long I can go between redoing it. Every spring I lightly sand and put on one fresh coat. Doesn't take long, can do it all in one day, including sanding.
Interlux also makes a nice interior varnish that leaves a "hand rubbed" look.
Two years ago I did the cabin sole; light sand and 2 coats of varnish. Unfortunately I don't recall the brand, but I can check. I do know it was marine grade floor varnish, with a satin finish.
As stated previously, depends on your location, condition of the wood and your tastes.

Ed

Jim,
Yes you should repitch to 10. That's been the recommendation from the experts on the message board. I've got the 3 blade pitched at 10 and at the beginning of the season will get 6 kts at @ 2800 rpm. Once the bottom gets soft slimed I lose a half knot or more.

Ed

I replaced my fuel tank last year; and have a "watch out" for you.
Catalina included new fittings (fuel out and fuel return) with barbed ends as well as a new sender with the new tank. However, both ends of the fittings, the barbed and the threaded were different dimensions from mine. At first I thought it was just the barbed end so I figured I would just re-install the old ones. Then I realized the threaded end was also different. After a few phone calls, Catalina sent me the correct fittings. Cost me 2 additional weeks to get the job finished.
So the "watch out" is, give them the dimensions of your fittings so that they send you the configuration.

Ed

Since you are in MA, I assume you are on the hard and have a cover over the boat. If you are shrink wrapped, you should have vents built into the wrap. Otherwise it won't breath enough. If you are "loosely" covered with a tarp, that should allow sufficient ventilation. As you said, could be just due to the crazy fluctuations we've had in the Northeast so far this winter.

Ed