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Messages - Ed Shankle

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 28
Main Message Board / Re: Automatic bilge pump
« on: December 29, 2019, 05:25:52 AM »
I had to replace my float switch a couple of times over the years, not sure what caused the breakdown, maybe getting frozen in bilge water over the winter? So I decided to try the built in switch instead. Like I said, so far no issues.
BTW, I do put antifreeze in the bilge, but it stratifies with water eventually, with the water on top, which freezes.

Main Message Board / Re: Automatic bilge pump
« on: December 28, 2019, 06:39:21 AM »
I replaced with a Rule 1500 two years ago, automatic switch. It has worked as advertised, no issues. The only thing to get used to is the test button. Since there is a delay and the button doesnít make a distinguishable click that you can feel, it may take a couple of tries to get it to run.
Also, I had to position it a bit off center in the bilge to line up with exit hose. Not a big deal, and yours may be different anyway.

Main Message Board / Re: New Dodger
« on: November 04, 2019, 04:58:50 AM »
I noticed you didnít mention thread type on your materials list, so I thought it would be worth suggesting Teflon thread. A couple years ago I needed some repair work done to my dodger, including restitching where seams had failed. The glass and sunbrella were still in good shape so a wholesale replacement wasnít necessary. The person I was working with from the canvas company told me when returning the dodger that he had the shop use Teflon thread, saying it would last much longer than the regular thread. This being my second time around with seam failures since owning TailWind, I was appreciative and hopeful.  Itís only been a couple of years, so the jury is still out. But it would be nice if the life of the seams can be moved closer to the life of the glass and cloth!


Main Message Board / Re: Water heater by pass
« on: October 03, 2019, 07:34:55 AM »
Hi Jeff,
We probably have the same model. Not sure how well it will drain with your new setup, but it will drain. Iíve found I need to remove both hoses for it to drain quickly from the lower one. The other letting air in. But as Ron noted, there is still water in there, 1 gallon +/-.  Putting a shop vac set to blow, or using a foot pump, will allow you to push out the remainder. I then connect the two hoses with a 2 sided barbed connector to bypass. Not the most elegant, but it works.


Main Message Board / Re: Rigging a Barber Hauler
« on: August 28, 2019, 04:45:44 AM »
Practical Sailorís Sept issue has an article on rigging a barber hauler and as another option, suggests using low friction rings.

Main Message Board / Re: question about whisker pole
« on: August 12, 2019, 04:27:44 AM »
That small pad eye you said was on the mast up by the steaming light most likely is for a small block for a topping lift. I think thatís what Jim was alluding to, but just wanted to be clear.

Main Message Board / Re: Who can supply a stern pulpit?
« on: August 04, 2019, 05:38:55 PM »
Not sure about stern rails, but when my bow rails got smoked in hurricane Sandy, I ordered from CD. Even the rail foot holes were perfectly aligned! Shocked at that!

Main Message Board / Re: Which Oberdorfer pump is this?
« on: August 04, 2019, 05:35:47 PM »
I use Scotchbrite pads. Seems to work good. Any concerns with that?

Main Message Board / Re: Anchor locker hatches
« on: August 04, 2019, 05:32:40 PM »
Tie it off to the opposite rail?

Main Message Board / Re: Cruising Speed/RPMs with Universal 25XP
« on: August 04, 2019, 05:28:18 PM »
Hi SS,
If you are considering a new prop, I suggest checking out a folding prop. I got more motoring speed as well as sailing speed.
Also, as others are indicating, be sure to check you actual tach rpms with a laser device.


Main Message Board / Re: Starting problem
« on: July 18, 2019, 06:11:41 AM »
Iíve had that problem in the past. The first time it was resolved when I replaced the engine control panel (tach had quit), which of course included a new start button and key switch. The 2nd time was with the new panel. The wire from the key switch to the start button on the back of the panel had come loose. No problem since after tightening.
Checking the back panel connections and replacing the start button might be good, quick, cheap steps to try. Good luck.

I use a Loos gauge and like Ron says, itís good to get equal tensioning. To that Iíd add that it helps to get you in the ballpark of appropriate tensioning if you are not comfortable with your own sense of what feels right. If you search the site, someone posted a spreadsheet of tensions plus other useful info by each stay and size. I keep a hard copy of that with my gauge.


Main Message Board / Re: Peel Away Stripper for bottom paint
« on: March 28, 2019, 06:59:49 AM »
Hi Dale,
I used Peel Away years ago on a build up of layers, a mix of hard and ablative coats. I had to apply twice and still had to scrape. It was a lot of work and not as simple as I had hoped. A few years ago when I decided to move to a non copper, solvent free paint, I wanted to start fresh, so I had the bottom blasted instead. It came out great, no gelcoat damage. Followed with a new barrier coat, then the new paint.


Main Message Board / Re: Diesel in the bilge!!
« on: March 10, 2019, 10:43:13 AM »
A few thoughts;
You said the ďmain bilgeĒ had diesel in it. Did you mean the section directly aft of the mast step? I expect it would have been in the section aft of that one, unless it somehow got on the bilge pump hose and trickled along it into the bilge??
When I had a pin hole leak in my tank a number of years ago (which I replaced), the thinking at the time was that if there is water in the metal tank, it attacks the welds in the tank creating the pinholes.
On another occasion where I had a small leak, it was due to filling the tank too full in the fall, and it expanded when the weather got warmer, forcing fuel out the sender cover. Pumping out a few gallons and snugging the sender cover resolved the issue.
Also, did you check the tank vent hose to be sure it was intact?
Good luck with the investigation!

PS Noah - got a chuckle from your ice in the bilge comment : :mrgreen! Yeah, with mast up, the internal mast trickle of water will most definitely freeze up.

Main Message Board / Re: Poor exhaust water flow
« on: January 16, 2019, 09:03:31 AM »
Ross, also remove the raw water hose at the HX end and check the inside of the HX nipple for a blockage. Iíve had it happen a couple of times. It builds from the edges inward, slowly enclosing the center. Stu has noted it previously too and thinks it is salt. I thought it may be calcium, but never tested it. You can break it up easily with a screwdriver.
Good luck,

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