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Work a stiff putty knife under the flange all around to break the seal. Then pry up a corner enough to get a small tool such as a hammer claw or mini crowbar to work it up. Use a piece of cardboard under the handles of the tools to prevent scratching the gelcoat.
Good luck,
Ed

You can also drill countersink holes in the wood strips below the microwave feet just enough to prevent movement but not deep enough to prevent opening the door.
Regards,
Ed

I had to order a new O-ring last year for the raw water strainer, as the yard lost the existing one. The one sent was round, not square like the original. Before returning it, I tried it and it worked! So I kept it. On line supplier of Hypro brand.
Regards,
Ed

When did Peggie Hall switch allegiance from Raritan K.O.to no flex? Haven't heard of noflex until now.

Regards,
Ed

Maybe it will stretch a bit with some heating with a hair dryer?
Good luck,
Ed

I used chrome hinges that have the pin afixed to one end so that to remove the cover you just open the cover and slide to the side. Like Stu, there is enough room behind the cover for the hinge to lay flat. Instead of the spring load cover, I hung a hook from the shelf trim above the cover, lined up with the finger loop cover opener. Just slide the hook through the finger loop to hold the cover open.
Used the same hinges and concept for the engine cover only reversed the setup to hold the cover open. Pad eye on the wall above and hook attached to the cover.
Regards,
Ed

Or from a hardware store/Home Depot/Lowe's that sells lawnmower tune up products, most likely cheaper than CD
Regards,
Ed

Since Select is based in Connecticut, they service a lot of east coast sailors and slow down in the winter. So they encourage doing the non essential jobs over the winter. Lead times might be better then.
Regards,
Ed

Keelson, I'm not 100% sure, but I think it was 1 1/2". It fit easily on the cockpit fitting, but the hull filling was a bear even after after lubing it. If you can find non wire reinforced hose, get that. Would be easier to stretch a bit. Unfortunately, I couldn't find it easily and opted for the wire reinforced so I could get the job done.
Regards,
Ed

I had to replace one of my cockpit drain hoses this year after noticing I was getting more than the usual amount of water in the bilge. Turns out there was a split in the bottom of the hose just above the thru hull. I'm guessing that debris got clogged in there followed by some rain water in the fall before the cover went on, then froze over the winter, splitting the hose. Our marina has enough trees around the boat winter staging area to be a challenge in the fall. Thought I kept the drains cleared but I guess not. For this years winter prep I put a sleeve of fine mesh screen in each drain hole.
Regards,
Ed

Thanks again guys for the fuse reminder. Fuse itself was ok, but the contact on one end of the fuse holder seemed a bit cruded up. Didn't appear to be oxide, but whatever it was, I cleaned it up, returned the fuse and it started right up.
BTW, I do have a weatherproof cap on the start button, which is why I didn't think it was that. But was prepared to buy one to find out.
Regards,
Ed

Thanks Ken and Jon. I picked up that tip regarding the fuse while searching the site. Will check that tomorrow when back to the boat.

Regards,
Ed

For those who have been down this road before, is Cole Hersee part M-626-02-BX the correct part for the Seaward cockpit panel start button?
Key switch is working fine but no response to pushing the start button. I've had this issue previously and resolved it by tightening the connections on the panel, but not this time. Assume the button needs to be replaced. Not original panel BTW, I replaced it a number of years ago.
Thanks,
Ed

I check the invoice; $850 for the job. $50 of which is the cable and fasteners. The labor included the installation and smoothing the run as well as smoothing the throttle run, and testing. I don't know what the labor rate was, so I can't calculate the hours it took. Hope that helps.
Regards,
Ed

I'll have to look back at invoices to see what it cost and the time spent by the yard crew. Because you're still experiencing it after checking the cable run, I'd be inclined to think the internal wire is getting snagged in the sheath. Ok for the pull from the tranny lever, but catching on the push from the binnacle lever. Even though the run looks ok, after yrs of friction, internally it could create a catch. When my mechanic felt the resistance, it was "yep, need to replace the cable". At 32 yrs old at time, I guess I got my money's worth!
Ed