Topics

Hi all electrical engineer, I've got a mystery. My 2 6 volt and 1 12 volt batts all passed hydrometor test and showed 12.5 volts yesterday. Put them in my car last night, brought them to the boat today and installed the 6 volt ones first. Nothing, volt meter on panel showed nothing. Checked with my multimeter, nothing.
Tried the hydrometer and passed, fully charged
Checked the 12 volt batt sitting on thr cabin floor with multimeter. Nothing. 
Thoughts, before I go off and buy new ones?
Thanks

For those who have been down this road before, is Cole Hersee part M-626-02-BX the correct part for the Seaward cockpit panel start button?
Key switch is working fine but no response to pushing the start button. I've had this issue previously and resolved it by tightening the connections on the panel, but not this time. Assume the button needs to be replaced. Not original panel BTW, I replaced it a number of years ago.
Thanks,
Ed

Can't confirm it since we were away for a few days last week/weekend while couple of tstorms passed though. But when we went to the boat this past Weds, I found the oil pressure alarm that comes on when turning the ignition key over didn't work. At first I thought it was a power issue, but gave the start button a push and the engine turned over as usual. Tried a couple more times to be sure and no start issues other than the silent alarm. Soon I found the raymarine wind indicator not working, the VHF only receiving not transmitting and later that night, my anchor light out. I checked out connections at the mast base and everything looked ok. Got back from an overnight yesterday and plan to do some troubleshooting today. Wondering if I should be placing orders for a new VHF (and maybe antenna which was new this year), wind speed/direction indicator, and pressure alarm (and anchor light bulb). Or wait until the yard can check out the mast head?
Thoughts?
Ed

My marina has gone to full service since last year and require all maintenance to be done by the marina. This year when doing the fall decom, they changed from the Racor R24S that I've aways used, to a R24P. In other words, 2 microns to 30 microns. What are your thoughts on this? Anyone else using the R24P?
Thanks and regards,
Ed

More fun and games...
After having the family out last weekend and using the head, I went back to the boat on Weds and discovered about a gallon or more of black water in the bilge. Actually, it was more pink (antifreeze) than black since I didn't have a need to pump out yet this year (late start due to Covid). I could see the flow pattern on the hull bottom and it appears to be coming from the area of the pump out hose connection to the tank. I put some paper towels below it to see if that would confirm the location, and left it. When I returned yesterday, the paper towels were soaked, but not enough to trickle into the bilge. Cleaned it up placed some dry paper towels under it again and checked it periodically. There was no new leaking and I assume that was due to the level of the water in the tank. The connectors were all dry. I pumped some water into the tank and checked shortly after. The paper was a bit wet, but I couldn't feel any wetness around the hose where it is clamped on, or the connector joints.
So here are the questions;
It appears the connector to the tank is "welded" in place, not screwed in with plumbers putty, so it's not likely the source. Is that a fair assumption?
There is a right angled connector that screws into that tank connector, with putty. That seems dry. I taped a mini "diaper" around that and it was dry. Hose connection dry as well. Could there be a leak in the tank itself? What have others found to be the source of leaks?
I assume I can't replace that 90* elbow connector without removing the tank due to a lack of spin space, correct?
I'm thinking if I have to remove the tank, I might as well install a new one. Am I jumping the gun or being prudent? It's the original tank. Of course I'd do the hoses as well.
Assuming I do remove the tank, what's the best way to remove the tabbing on the aft end of the tank, Dremel?
Looking forward to your input.

Thanks,
Ed

I installed a new water heater last weekend (new hoses as well). The Whale/Seaward unit that replaces the OEM in our boats. They recommend installing an anode, replacing the drain spigot that comes installed. I did that and it leaked. Tried snugging it in some more, still leaked. Tried using plumbers putty, still leaked. Fed up, I reinstalled the spigot. Figured if this lasts as long as the original, it will be some else's problem!
My reason for bringing this up is I'm curious if others who have replaced their water heater and installed the anode experienced the same thing?
BTW, removing and reinstalling the rear base bracket screws blindly was a challenge! Not sure if my boat is different, but the base for the water pump and tank valves are raised up next to the base for the water heater, leaving about 1.5" inches between the back of the heater and the vertical wall of the raised pump base!

Regards,
Ed

Reading the latest post where leaving the bleed valve open a bit for polishing was mentioned, once again had me thinking "really?" Narrow fuel lines, 20 gallons of fuel, how much motoring around would I have to do to actually substantially polish the fuel? That said, I've dutifully followed the recommendation, but in the back of my mind wonder how effective it really is. Does anyone know the flow rate from the return hose to the tank? I don't recall that being defined previously.
Figured I'd start a new post on this as I'm sure there will be discussion😁
Regards,
Ed

Out on a solo yesterday (well, me brother in law was with me, but he was furniture). Coming into the harbor, 20 knots coming directly out, so lots of tacking. Had enough, and when I went to start up the engine, nothing. Panel was working, ignition switch seemed to be working, batteries checked out (just that morning). But nothing when I depressed the start button. After getting up to the mooring field, I called for tow to my mooring, not feeling the need to do an under sail approach in a crowded field.
Anyway, I haven't started the trouble shooting yet, but do suspect the start button, even though I replaced the whole panel a couple of years ago, complete with rubber boots on the button and switch. However, got me to thinking; what's plan B to start the engine in that scenario? I seem to remember someone (Ron?) suggesting a bypass in a previous post, but couldn't find it. Was it bridge the hot post on the solenoid to the small post with a screwdriver?
Thanks,
Ed

I'm expecting to get my cabin top hatch back from Select Plastics any day now. Sent it out to replace the lens. Question is, it was originally installed with silicone, but should I use butyl tape this time? Reason I'm questioning is, the hatch is only screwed down with 1/2" screws. Can't really tighten down like with bolts and nuts. Since butyl isn't really an adhesive, although it sticks like crazy, I'm thinking I should stay with silicone.

thanks,
Ed

Installed a new engine control panel in the cockpit this weekend; interesting exercise of having to trace a few wires that didn't fit the profile in the wiring schematic that we have posted. Like the fuel pump being wired directly to the key switch. But managed ok and everything works! The new panel is weatherproofed much better than the old. The boot covers that Ron has noted that he added, is now included on the panel. So the key switch, push start and blower switch are all protected.
On the initial start up I had some jumpy gauges so I figured my engine grounds needed cleaning up. Did that and butt ended the ground wire that went through the terminal strip in the engine compartment (another Ron suggestion). No jumpy gauges after that. Will get back to butt ending the rest of those terminal strip wires next week. Also up next is the solonoid switch for the glow plugs.

Ed

Pulled off the sail cover yesterday and found the boom swinging free of the goose neck. The hexagon bold that is in the middle of the end cap was pulled out, still attached to the goose neck. Remnants of a cotter pin attached to the end that goes inside the boom. Of course the end cap screws are frozen, so I'll be working on those and swearing profusely, but what I'd like to find out in advance is, just what the attachment looks like inside the boom for that hex bolt, in case there are other parts that may need to be replaced.

thanks,
Ed

Got to talking with a fellow Catalina owner this past weekend and one of the stories she related to me was when their transmission quit and had to be replaced. I asked what their symptoms were prior to it quitting and she said there were none that they noticed. All of a sudden it just wouldn't go into gear. They did have to get a replacement, but regardless of their particular problem, it got me to thinking, what diagnostics are there to determine the state of the tranny? What noise, feel or visual is an indication that something may need to be fixed? Is there an "x,xxx hr" PM that should be done?
Any insights to this?
Thanks,
Ed

I'm considering a new genoa this year. My sun shield fabric is torn and needs to be replaced anyway, plus the sail is old (might even be the original). So I'm thinking it might be better to make the investment now.
Here are my questions:
I'm working with Doyle, local to my marina. The salesman is offering me, at a discount, an upgrade on the fabric to a square weave dacron. I haven't seen it yet, but it supposedly looks like ripstop nylon. We'd do  bi-radial cut, like on the Quicksilver. It is 5.5 oz, lighter than the 7.2 used in the standard Quicksilver. Does anyone have any knowledge of this material? They have it as extra and are looking to use it up. That's why the discount.
2nd question; He says that between having my existing sail (stored at Doyle over the winter) plus having the spec's for many C-34's they have done over the years, they don't need to wait until the cover comes off the boat in the spring to measure, and can build it now. Said they would be fully responsible for any fit errors.
I'm a bit hesitant on that, as this is my 1st time buying a new sail. Is that reasonable for a common production boat, vs a custom built that surely would require a measurement?

thanks,
Ed

Need some confirmation/direction, as I'm electrically challenged; this past weekend while under power, the tach stopped working and the alternator appeared to stop charging, at least according to my separately mounted amp meter. The volt meter on the cockpit panel dropped from 14 vto 12.5, and the charging regulator lights remained lit. figured it was a loose wire, checked the connection strip in the engine compartment and the red alternator wire from the connection back to, I assume, the tach, was indeed loose. Tightened it up, restarted and all seemed well. Until about an hour later; then the same thing happened. Went through the same routine, and all was well for the rest of the weekend, until the return trip home. 15 minutes out, and it happened again. So this time I figure what I thought was the problem, was a red herring. So I kept going and a short time later it came back on. Over the course of the morning, it happened a couple more times, then it was ok for the rest of the day. So now I'm thinking it's a ground wire problem with the alternator. Does that seem reasonable? I'll check and clean the ground to the engine, but is there a diagnostic I can do underway if it happens again?

I'm finally getting around to replacing my cowl vents; put it off for two seasons, but since I lost one overboard this weekend due to a hyperactive sheet, it's time.
Anyone know which model is correct for 1989? Per past posts, it looks like the model switched from Vetus to Nicro, but I'm not clear when. Also, if it is the Vetus, would it be the Tom or Jerry model? I know Ron previously said he thought it was Jerry, but I'd like to confirm.

thanks,
Ed

As mentioned in earlier posts, I'm replacing the standing rigging this season. Work is about to get underway, but a thought just struck me; I should redesign the backstay split!
Currently, I have an adjustable split that is about 7 - 7.5 ft up from the cockpit sole.
I don't think the adjustable is really necessary, since the rig is not fractional, and additional height would make the stern entrance easier (no walk thru on Tail Wind).
So, who has a high backstay splitter and what height is it? Is there any rule of thumb or recommendation?

thanks,
Ed

I'm going to replace the traveler this season with the Garhauer model and have a question for those of you who done this already. I've read the posts as well as Steve Lyle's Mainsheet article, but want to confirm the mounting screws/thru-bolts.
I've got four screws on each side, but Steve talks only about using 2 thru-bolts. Is the recommendation to replace 1 screw per side with a thru-bolt and just replace the other 3 per side with longer screws?

thanks,
Ed

I'm looking for opinions everyone; Big fire at my marina a week and a half ago. Incredibly, there was no damage to the boats in storage in the yard.
Unforunately, my roller furler was in the building, as I was having the stays replaced this year. So, I need to get a new one and would like to hear your thoughts about the models that you have experience with. I had the Hood SL that I converted from the continuous line 2 seasons ago, so I'd like to hear about others.
Looking forward to your comments.
Ed

I'm planning to pull the mast this year at haul out and have the rigging replaced by the yard over the winter. I haven't received a quote from the yard yet, but meanwhile, I'd like to hear what others have spent to have this done, to get a point of comparison.
thanks,
Ed

My engine hours meter on the tach has stopped working. I'm assuming the solution is to replace the tach, but wanted to get concurrence from the experts out there before doing that. The tach itself still works ok.

thanks,
Ed

I'm one of the members who took advantage of the special offer end of last year to buy the lower unit of the SL to replace the old CD lower unit. I've done the installation and am looking for advice and guidance on the initial furling line wrap and headsail hoist and furl.
The manual that accompanied the unit didn't provide any instruction on that topic and I figure there is some technique that would be good to know.

thanks,
Ed

Worked on installing the Vetus K-50's this weekend, and I have a question for those of you that have previously done it.
I followed the procedure of cutting out the old mount and replacing with the new Vetus, one at a time instead of lifting the engine off the mounts.
The new forward port mount compressed more than the other 2 I installed(3 is as far as I got yesterday). It's about a 5mm compression and the specs say max is 4mm. It seems like the engine is either heavier on the port side or I have a defective mount. Did anyone else experience this?

thanks,
Ed

After a few hours of steady motoring through calms this weekend, the RPM's suddenly dropped from 2500 to 2200. After a minute or two it went back up to 2500. Did it a couple more times during the next 15-20 minutes. Shut the engine off and sailed for the rest of the trip back, except for a short duration through the mooring field, as the wind had returned.
Is this a symptom of anything I need to be concerned about? Engine temp was steady; no visible signs of water or crud in the Racor bowl; the fuel pump is after the Racor.

Ed

When finally preparing to launch this season, I found that my raw water strainer had a section of the screen rotted away. Since I luckily have the same strainer type in line for the fresh water system, I just used the cylindrical screen from that one. Meanwhile, I'm trying to find a replacement and am having no luck, so I wanted to see want others of you have got for strainers.
I don't see any company ID on my strainer housing, might just be the orientation of it installed.
It's @ 5 1/2 x 2 1/2 plastic housing with a clear plastic screw off sight glass. The screen itself is @ 3 5/8 x 1 1/2 ID, and cylindrical. The orientation of the housing is a sideways T, inline from the intake thru-hull.
TailWind is an 89 Mk1. What do others have? the only options I've seen in the catalogs are much bigger brass units that I assume must be in an upright orientation.

Ed

Another little commissioning "gnat" this year; the small drain spigot at the bottom of my hot water heater frozen in the open position, and when initially trying to turn it closed the "handle" broke free and just spins. As a temporary fix I put a piece of tubing on the barbed fitting, clamped it on and clamped off the other end. I'd like to replace though. Can't figure out how it disconnects from the heater. Anyone experience this before?
It's a Seaward, so I tried to get some tech help, but Seaward on the net doesn't even list this type of product. I wonder if there is another Seaward or they just don't make water heaters anymore.

Ed

Battery experts, tell me if this makes sense;
Charged up my T-105 6 volt house batteries, got 3-4 balls floating on the hydrometer test, installed the batteries in TailWind and nothing worked! (yes, the main switch was on).
Double checked with a multimeter, and it read 0 volts! Since these are 6 volt batteries linked in series, the contacts were made on the positive pole of one battery and the negative pole of the other. The batteries were wired up in place. An additional hydrometer test gave the same results.
Is it possible to get these opposing results or are there other factors I'm not considering?

thanks,
Ed

I've got a leak in the fuel tank; appears to be coming from the welded seem and potentially from a couple of spots.
I've drained & pulled the tank.
Searching the site, it looks like any discussion on the topic has been around cleaning and repairing the tank. I'm wondering if it should be replaced. Any have insight to a source in the Northeast and price?
What are the thoughts on re-welding?

thanks,
Ed

Ok mechanics out there, I need some suggestions.
I took the heat exchanger out for a cleaning. Repalced the hoses While I was at it. After reinstalling, the engine overheated. No surprise. So next I pumped the fresh water side with the mini Jabsco pump, as per the instructions in the FAQ's. Still overheated. Next I replaced the thermastat. Here's where it gets interesting. On the mooring with no engine load, the temp got up to 165 - 170. Usually with no load it wouldn't get past 130 - 140. Normally it doesn't get higher than 165 running at 2500 rpm under load. But at least it wasn't overheating. Kept checking it, and it stayed steady for about 45 minutes. Then when I wasn't checking so frequently, the engine alarm goes off. It was overheating.
The hoses that should have felt warm were warm. The raw water out the exhaust seemed ok, but I didn't notice it after the alarm went off, I just shut the engine down right away.
It's a m25xp.
What do I try next?

thanks,
Ed

Ok engine guru's; I need your help. Preparing Tail Wind for the winter, I drained and replaced the coolant. After starting up and running for a few minutes, the temp started climbing, so I shut it down at 180 degrees. Figured there was an air pocket. After allowing it time to cool down, I started it up again, and throttled up to 2800 rpm's a few times, as the manual instructs, to move the air pocket thru the system. Opened the vent on the thermostat a couple of times and only got coolant. Still the temp climbed, so I shut it down again. Tried this a few times with no success.
The raw water side was working fine, so no coincidence factor there. Since I was hauled out yesterday, this is now a spring project.
The possible problems are, as I see it, a stubborn air pocket, or coincidentally, a stuck thermostat or broken water pump.
Thoughts?

thanks,
Ed

Lately the alternator has been squealing for a minute or 2 upon start up then it goes away. This weekend, it didn't stop and my amp meter showed it charging at 100 amps at 2000rpms and 75 amps at 1500 rpms. The alternator (75 amp Balmar)was also very hot and slightly smoking at 2000rpms.
My guess is a stuck voltage regular. What do you think?