Messages

We have an Achilles LEX 88 with a 5' beam. I considered davits but will remain stowing it on the foredeck for the following reasons:
- it adds a minimum of 6 more feet to the stern hence affecting my moorage and slip requirements and associated costs.
- another source for potential leaks
- initial cost and additional costs for ancillary blocks, rope, et cetera
- increases turning radius and my slip in the  marina is tight enough already
- blocks stern navigation light
- IMO it detracts from the simply gorgeous lines of the 34 MKII. When we are not on an extended cruise, "Schneider" is rolled up and put away at home
-most importantly, we have faced some heavy weather and I am much more comfortable seeing it upside down and securely tied on the foredeck that open to wave action and egress and subject to all that this entails...if it ain't broke don't fix it! One less thing to worry about. Know one fella who ran into some heavy weather in the Strait of Jan de Fuca and the wave took the dingy right off the davits!!
IMO more downside than upside.

I am looking to add a Fortress FX 16 as an additional backup to my 33 lb Bruce. The store above has an internet site at www.windlass-anchor.com.
The Fortress retails at $236 and this dealer is quoting $146 on their website plus $13 shipping.
Has anyone heard anything negative or positive on this dealer. Any responses would be appreciated.
What experiences have you had using this anchor?
Thanks

I have ordered the G-2UB system with the optional swivel cams. For those owners of a MKII who have this system I would appreciate any helpful hints on the installation process,
Thanks

On Latitudes, 2004 #1678, we installed an Espar Hydronic D5. The Esapar is mounted under rear port lazarette and the tank is mounted on the outdoor shower faucet bulkhead. Fuel is drawn from the main tank fuel line. We have one main heater in the cabin which is mounted in the middle of the the port settee, halfway up from the floor. We cut two 4" holes in the immediate lockers to increase air flow to the fan. Make sure all your heaters have adequate ventilation or the fans will cavitate. When securing to fiberglasss or wood, I suggest a rubber washer with each mounting screw.
Second heater is mounted in the V berth area at the same height and to the right of the little door and has it's own switch.
The third heater (for aft cabin) is mounted under the head sink with one duct to the head and the other to the aft cabin. The switch for this one is mounted on the engine cover bulkhead, just above the HX zinc!
Was down to the boat today and cranked it up to max and it quickly heats up the boat. Run it at least once a month throughout the year. Changing coolant is not required as per dealer. This puppy has given us faithful service for four years and is hoooked up to heat the water heater as well!!

I was reviewing the BUY and SELL area and came across the topic "2005 34 Catalina MkII for sale". The owner had included info under warranty repairs and maintenance. I suggest all you owners, especially the newer MKII, review these topics. Deck void issues on this model are becoming quite common. Also, check all your engine hoses for possible rubbing issues. My opinion is this selling dealer did a piss poor job of commissioning! Will it take a fatality before the factory and dealer network smarten up? Anybody want to share their new boat warranty issues? Might give us all a heads up on possible areas to watch.
Safe boating!

Mayberry quoted $879 all in including shipping. Canadian price is $1250 before taxes of 13%.

I have already installed a Xantrex three stage regulator along with a 105 amp Leece & Neville alternator. We are planning a two month trip to Desolation Sound and the Broughtons this spring/summer and I can't afford to call the auto association. I like my redundancy as much as the Admiral likes her TV and VCR!
Thanks.

I have just installed a Link 10 and now wish to get this Honda generator. I am running the original two 4Ds which are wired in parallel as house batteries. I assume my amp hours are 400. I have another Trojan 27 as a starting battery which I have installed under the head sink.

Where is the best place to get one at the best price?

Thanks

I just had a small coolant leak on my M35 which I traced to a loose clamp connection on the port rear side of the engine. I also retightened every possible clamp in the system. I had a mechanic run a 15 PSI pressure test for 15 minutes with no pressure loss. Little leaks become big leaks at the most inopportune times. I also replaced the coolant which was 4 years old.

I painted the coupling with a rust prevetitive paint. Keeps the rust down and any movement can be detected during normal maintenance and inspection.
The flange on the crankshaft has been safety wired as well.
2004 MkII #1678

I installed a black 8" ABS/plastic port to make this job more user friendly. Port was placed 5" from the bottom of the side panel and right in the middle.
You have to take the rear engine cover off and taking off the raw water valve access door helps. I scribed a circle off a 8.5 inch plate, then drilled four 1/2" holes at the four compass points and then ran my jigsaw north and south. Each quarter cut easily and no blades whewre broken. Use a real flat port as there are space considearations. The port should not be more than 1/2" in width. I rolled back the insulation barrier to cut the hole and then cut a vertical and horizontal slit in the barrier. This preserves it. Just push it in when acessing the zinc or end cap. When installing the barrier back on do not tighten the screws very much as they will penetrate through the panel and destroy your teak look! Total cost $15.

Tom, did you pull out the sink to do this job?
What did you use to connect the hot & cold water lines to the boat hoses?
I have had the original hot water line blow apart at the faucet and at the connector to the supply hose. My wife is paranoid about using the hot water system and would rather boil her dish water. These compression fitings are garbage and are an accident to happen to new 34 owners.
I also upgraded right off the bat to a Jabsco variable pump with a stand alone accumulator tank. The stock pump cycled like crazy and we spent a few hours checking all the connections.
Any suggestions would be helpful!
Thanks

On my 2004 MKII, I installed a simple hook on to the left side of the navigation bulkhead looking aft and then screwed a simple eye on the the head door at mid level but clearing the door handle. I also put another eye on the side of the chart table, so this one hook either keeps the door open or I can have it keep the nav chart desk in the vertical position when required.

I used a similar scenario for the aft cabin door as well as for the top engine cover when checking oil et cetera.

I showed these to Gerry Douglas 4 years ago at a Catalina rendezvous and asked why the factory doesn't do minor niceties such as these. He replied he would rather put the time into constructinga solid boat and leave the putterring to all the owners. One C 42 owner was not pleased that our 34 came with a secure anchor locker latch whereas his had no latch at all. Heh Heh!

FYI my problem stemmed from the fact that the flange which screws into the s/s riser was not fully set. A short stint in a vise fixed this. It will now stand up to the most active pole dancer. It also gave me the oportunity to examine the hoses/clamps, riser and welds in detail. All in great shape after 4 salty years. New exhaust gasket ($1.75) and clamp ($25) were also installed.

I also changed engine coolant as the original coolant was showing some discoloration. In addition, the cooling system was pressurerized to 15PSI for 15 minutes and held steady.

Oil & oil filter and fuel filter were changed. I change oil twice a year. Racor (10 micron) was changed in May. This is my third Racor since commissioning in April of 2004. Never had a sign of dirt in the bowl. Unless we are cruising, I fill a 5 gallon jerry can with diesel and leave it for a few days before pouring into the tank. I think this cuts down on any sediment that might be present.

Tranny oil was changed. I installed a new impeller as well, this is my third as well. One blade had a bend to it. Rather than just checking them, I feel if youv'e gone this far, why not put a brand new one in as they are only $46.

I painted the entire area aft of the tranny with a white enamel and painted the tranny coupling with silver Tremclad to prevent rust. PSS dripless seal inspected as well. Any body interested in buying a brand new stuffing box, never used!

We used strata glass and have a dodger, bimini connector and bimini custom made out of Sunbrella. Color is Captain Navy. We have two grab bars on the sides as well as one at the rear of the dodger. They come in very handy. Get a cover and clips for all dodger windows. Helps protect the strataglass. Our dodger is 4 years old and is in excellent condition.
Side covers should not be so long as to interfere with the winch handle action. Use the best thread possible. Do not use any leather products as trim as they will get very dirty and show mildew, mould et cetera. 100% Sunbrella.
While at it have your guy make a wheel and pedestal cover, winch covers and a cover for the hatch boards with a built in mosquito net. This h/b cover can be installed with clips as well and really stops any weathering of the boards after a good dose of Deks Olje!
Wash Sunbrella with a mild laundry soap aand a very soft brush.
We also made covers for the two large Lexan hatches, fore and midship. 
TTFN
Latitudes 2004 MkII #1678
P.S. Going down to the boat today to install 8" ABS acess plate to get at that dam zinc anode on the H/X!!!!!!!
Merry Xmas to all.