Messages

My advice, walk away or get a price on the boat that reflects the condition.  You have done exactly what I recommend, play with everything, turn everything on, turn every switch, open every door, look inside everything.  Don't rely soley on the surveyor. I was only ok with our surveyor, if I hadn't brought items to his attention he would not have found them.  Good luck.

Did you make your helm's-man's awning, or purchase it?  If you made it, do you have any tips, and if you bought it, was it local or is there a company that makes these?  I can't seem to find anything on the internet, I thought about talking to the local canvas shop, but my guess is big $$. 

Does anyone know where you can buy a sun shade like the one in this picture?  (picture hijacked form Yachtworld.com) It attaches to your dodger then connects to the backstay, seems like a perfect set up.  I guess I could buy the material and make one, but wanted to see what they cost first.

So this weekend I took a closer look at the pump and cleaned up the area where the leak appeared.  Two things I noticed, first it looks like the coolant came from a weep hole (?) located on the underside of the pump. Second, after I evaluated and cleaned up the area, I motored quite a bit, 2 hours at a time, I looked at the engine and there was no evidence of any leak.  While I was happy not so see anything, I know better than to think my leak has magically curred itself.  Any thoughts?

Ron, I think I'll give that try this weekend.  If it is just the gasket, do you think I should replace the whole pump while I have it apart?  I think I saw the pump for approximately $100, the gasket was $6.

Thanks Ken.  I did take a pretty good look at it, it does only appear to be coming from the one bolt.  Do you think it is worth replacing the whole pump while I have it apart, or just the gasket?  I read on the MB that these pumps generally should give you 1000-1500 hours, I should have 20-40 more years of service before I hit this, but if the part is cheap I can probably rationalize replacement now.

I think I have a very slight leak on my FW Pump. (See the Photo)  I was looking over the engine this past weekend and say this.  It looks like it originates from the FW Pump location.  I have read a few posts about replacing the pump with a rather inexpensive one from Kubota, but my question is, do I need a while new pump, or is just the gasket leaking?  If I am draining all the coolant and removing the pump to put on a new gasket should I just replace it?  I only have about 500hrs on my 25XP engine.  I have heard about peoples pumps freezing up, were there signs such as this small leak ahead of time, or did it just seize up without any prior indicators?  I ask because I would prefer to do this project in a few weeks when I have a little time.  Any thoughts or comments are welcome.  BTW, how difficult is this project, seems straight forward, but I may be missing something.

That looks like a good idea, I'll have to give that a try.  I prefer not use Spartite, I prefer to spend my boat $$ other places first.

Stu, did you have to reinstall a new boot after you completed the sealing at the mast, or did you just raise up your existing boot, then pull it down when complete?

I am looking to replace the mast boot with the mast up.  The old one is pretty beat and leaks bad, and I don't plan to pull my stick anytime soon.  I have seen the universal mast boot at WM which requires you to cut it and then use the adhesive to glue it back.  My thought/question is, it doesn't look like the universal boot will work with the C34 mast as the block for the main sheet is very close to the deck.  Has anyone used a C34 boot from Catalina Direct and just slit it down one side, or does this create a big problem, meaning it leaks.  Sounds simple, but thought I would ask of anyone has done this before.  Thoughts?

I went through this process last year.  I worked with Richard Kollmann from Kollmann Marine, he walked me through how to recharge my system.  It doesn't take much R-12 to recharge the system, but one you do it, you realize it is really easy.  Here is a link to the online instructions he gave me, he even called me and offered to talk me through it while I was at the boat, extremely helpful.

http://kollmann-marine.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2066&highlight=

It has run fairly well now for over a year, even after winter.  I think in my case the seals may have dried out and just adding R-12 rejuvenated the seals.

Hint: Use the Wanted section of Craigslist to obtain R-12.

I just did this a couple of weeks ago.  There is plenty of info on this board to help you, but let me tell you what I did.  I too am a cruiser, but want to get the best performace I can.  I used 3/8" Sta-Set X, I bought 115' as recommended in the C34 manual.  I would probably buy 110' of I did it again.  I have almost 15' of spare main halyard using the 115'.  To install I would recommend buying some whipping ($8 at WM), I took a small piece and put a couple of stitches between the old halyard and new, then wrapped in electrical tape.  Then just pull it through.  The connection between the new and old is pretty strong if you put the couple of stitches in, plus now that you have the whipping you can whip the ends of all your lines.   Whole project took less than 1/2 hour.

So far I like the Sta-Set X, I would highly recommend it.

I routed my cable to the anchor locker.  I didn't use anything special, just simple connectors you find at the local Walmart.  The whole thing cost less than $10.   It was a quick install, you just take the forward bulkhead off and then you have access to the whole anchor locker.  I placed it at the very top shelf area in the locker.  I ran the cable back to the cabinet above the nav station, or where ever you choose.  I will try to get a pic this weekend.

Thanks guys, I'll try to find some oak and make some wedges.

Sailing this weekend I was experiencing the mast moving forward and aft.  It was blowing about 12 knots with 3-5' waves.  I hadn't seen this before.  The wedges had fallen out earlier this season, is the the reason?  Should the backstay have been tightened to prevent the movement?  It was moving about 1/2 an inch each direction when we were hitting waves.  I guess the wedges would have helped, but it seems they should be there just to center the mast, not take the load when the mast moves.  Any thoughts?

Are the valves below the sink in the open position?  Seems obvious, but I have to get under the sink and look to see if the valve is open or closed.  I also had a smiler problem, I put a new strainer on and tightended all hose clamps and it has worked well for two years.  The air was getting in the system at the strainer.