Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Sundance

#16
Maybe I can weigh in on this since now I can say I have owned an 89' with the 25xp and a 2001 with the M35BC. 

With the 25xp, 3 blade fixed prop (pitch unknown), 2500 rpm, fresh bottom, 5.2-5.5 kts.  By end of season I would only get about 4.8kts. Calm waters, no tide.

With the M35BC, 2 blade, 2500 rpm, VC-17 bottom paint, 6.5-7 kts.  Nearing end of season, nearly no difference. Calm waters, no tide.

I can say without a doubt the 25xp struggled as soon as there was any chop, wind, dirty bottom, etc.  The M35BC has the extra power that seems to push you through the chop and wind with ease and remain at cruising speed.

I've read for years about people with the 25xp motoring at 7+ kts.  Good for them, I have never even come close.
#17
I have never used it, but it looks to me it covers from the mast to the end of the boom.  Where it splits in 2 the "back" it looks like this is there the topping lift would come though.
#18
Used Boom Tent.  Came on boat when I bought it.  Never used it.  Appears to be in fair condition, pictures show worn areas.  The material is NOT Sunbrella. Buyer pays shipping.  $150 obo.
#19
New Bimini fro a 1989 C34.

Came on the boat when I bought it, but did not have poles so I never used it.  It looks like it came from The Canvas Store in NY.  Comes with boot as well.  Buyer pays shipping. $500 obo.
#20
Search for "Refrigeration Replacement on 1989"

This:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9002.msg65169.html#msg65169  [Stu]

I don't know what year your boat is, but I did this project last year and shared my experience.  You should be fine with the standard 15', but as I detailed and heard from others, the length is closer to 14'4".  Second year with my new fridge and wish I had replaced the old one 10 years ago.  What a difference.
#21
Main Message Board / Re: below deck autopilot
March 10, 2017, 09:36:43 AM
Thanks for the reply.  All that disconnecting and reconnecting went through my head, but I also have the electronics cables to worry about.  It seemed as though that would take as long as my original project, installing the refrigeration.  At least I know I'm not crazy or missing something on the "easy" removal of the aft water tank.
#22
Main Message Board / Re: below deck autopilot
March 09, 2017, 01:03:08 PM
Unrelated to the auto pilot, but how did you get the aft water tank out?  Last year I replaced my refrigeration compressor and wanted to access through the aft birth, but after struggling to get the water tank out for over an hour I said forget it.
#23
UPDATE: I installed the refrigeration this past weekend.  I talked with another C34 owner with a slightly newer model, a 1994, whose set up that was nearly identical to mine and he said he did his refrigeration about 5 years ago and did not need any extension.  So between his first hand experiance and the fact that www.nauticalair.com has terrible customer service which procluded me from ordering the extension, I decided to dive in and hope for the best.  Once I received the evaporator in the mail, I measured the tubing.  It was 14'-4".  The old tubing measured 14"-2".  I knew it was going to be close.  On top of that, the old compressor and the new compressor have the tubing connection points in a different location.  All said and done, it fit.  For anyone attempting this in the future here are a couple pointers.

-In order to work on the old/new compressor, loosen the propane locker and move it to the side to allow both shoulders and hands into the aft lazarette.  Seems like a pain, but worth it.

-In a perfect world at first glance I figured I'd remove the rear water tank and have direct access to the compressor.  No such luck.  The boat was built around the tank, there is no chance of removal.  Time wasted:1hr.

-When pulling the old tubing, attach a line so you can pull the new ones into place. 

-Old/new evaporator have the same bolt pattern, but save the old bolts and standoffs because the new ones that it comes with are slightly smaller.

-New compressor is slightly smaller, new holes will need to be drilled for mounting.  Save old bolts since the new compressor does not come with any.

Overall this is a very straightforward project, it took me about 8 hrs from start to finish, if I did it again, it would take about 5 hrs.  Like all boat projects, you will be excessively sore, and possibly bruised from leaning into the aft lazarette.  Have a cold beer on hand, you'll need it.  Spent three nights on board this past weekend.  Everything worked well and it it is unbelievable how much more efficient this system is. 
#24
Stu - If the kit is 15' then I am ok, the issue is there was a post that claimed the 15' was really 11.5-12' ish.  Looking for additional input from those that have done it.  Since the extension kit is not offered from a normal online boat store, I need to purchase it from a no name, rather unresponsive guy the manufacturer sent me to.  I can only imagine if I needed to return it.  Idealy I'd install assuming the tube was 15' long and then if needed order the extension kit.  FYI the cost of the extension kit is $185.   
#25
I'm replacing the refrigeration on my 1989, the current compressor is located in the starboard lazarette, behind the rear water tank. I plan to replace it with the Adler Barber CU-100 compressor and VD-150 evaporator.  It says it comes with 15' of tubing.  Has anyone replaced their unit and can attest to the fact that the 15' really works or will I need to get the extension kit?  I have heard conflicting stories that the 15' of tubing is really not 15', but was hoping to get some first hand experience.
#26
Main Message Board / Re: 135 v. 150
February 03, 2012, 05:12:16 AM
We are on Lake Erie and I notice you are in WI, so we have pretty much the same wind conditions.  Two years ago we bought a 130, primarily because it was cheap ($1200) since the loft already had a sail that another customer did not want after ordering.  It has made a huge difference.  With full sail I don't get much weather helm until it blows 15kn.  I will be the first to admit that when the wind drops much below 8, I want more sail.  No one likes being the slow boat on the water. 

You said you are a recreational racer, which means go big and figure out how to handle the sail, otherwise you will be a cruiser rounding the buoys behind a bunch of racers.  If you are sailing JAM, you will feel a huge difference down wind. 

Cruiser - 130% is great.
Racer - 155% is great.

#27
Main Message Board / Re: TV Cable receptical.
August 24, 2010, 04:56:32 AM
pogmusic,

I placed my cable receptacle in the anchor locker and it works great and is very convenient.  It has been there three years now and it still works great.  If corrosion builds up on it, I'll replace the $0.50 connector I used and go on my way for another 4-5+ years.  You do have to take the front panel off to install it, but it doesn't take long.  I ran the cable back to the nav station where the TV is located.  I have had no problem with water or corrosion. 
#28
Main Message Board / Re: clay vs. duct tape
April 16, 2010, 12:06:17 PM
Thanks for the input.  I ordered both backing plates, I figure if the "new" one fits, great, I have a spare backing plate for another stanchion, if the new one doesn't fit, I will drill out the "old" version of the backing plate to create a place for the vent and a lucky, post 1990, C34 owner will get a free backing plate. :thumb:
#29
Main Message Board / Re: clay vs. duct tape
April 16, 2010, 10:15:01 AM
Lance,

You are correct, it does appear Catalina Direct sells the backing places.  Thanks!  And they are cheap, $5.95.

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1068

It says the bolt pattern changed sometime around 1990 and that the vented backing plate is for the newer vented stanchion model.  Has anyone modified this to fit the older stanchion model?  The picture shows multiple holes, but I am not sure if this is to accommodate both versions or of there is another reason?
#30
Main Message Board / Re: clay vs. duct tape
April 16, 2010, 07:19:43 AM
Last weekend I began the holding tank vent stanchion project, over drilled, removed any wet core, and filled.  I used duct tape and it worked pretty well, a very small amount came out.  That being said, two questions:

1.  Before I head to the boat, what size is the vent that goes through the deck?  I need to buy the bit before I get to the boat.

2.  Jim, how did you order backing plates, did you have to call Garhauser?  Were they a stock item, or did they already have a pattern and simply made them?  What did they cost, not too much on a boat has many meanings?