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Topics - Clay Greene

#1
Main Message Board / Catalina 425
October 13, 2015, 09:13:31 AM
Catalina had a video playing at the Annapolis Boat Show of the concept for the new Catalina 425.  It looks to be a significant departure for the company from past styling.  Only one window above deck.  Three rectangular windows below decks.  Self-tacking jib with option for tracks for an overlapping headsail.  Twin wheels so similar to the 400 in that respect.  Other features looked similar to the "5" series boats. 
#2
Main Message Board / Water Heater Issue
June 23, 2015, 08:34:24 AM
Hoping someone may be able to help out a C34 alumnus with an issue with the Seaward water heater on our C387.  We are getting only slightly warm water (although definitely warmer than the cold side) when we operate the water heater on AC as well as after running the engine for a considerable time.  I checked continuity at the AC breaker and that seems fine (low resistance with the AC breaker open) and replaced the thermostat but that made no difference.  Under engine power, the coolant hose in and the coolant hose out both get hot to the touch so it appears that I have coolant circulating through the hot water heater.  We also have a petcock on the coolant in fitting and coolant comes out of that without issue.  No problems with the engine overheating so the coolant circulation seems to be fine.  I suppose the heating element could have failed but that would not explain the lack of heating with the engine running.  Thoughts? 
#3
Main Message Board / Practical Sailor C34 Review
February 19, 2015, 09:12:32 AM
Practical Sailor posted an updated C34 review on its website:

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_51/boatreview/The-Catalina-34-30-Years-Later_11643-1.html

There are a couple of factual errors (I wish the new elliptical rudder had only cost $1,200!) but generally seems like a pretty balanced review.  Stu Jackson gets credit for the photos. 
#4
Main Message Board / Shore Power Cord Issue
February 17, 2015, 01:09:08 PM
We woke up one morning last fall to find that our shore power cord, a Marinco EEL cord, had melted to our inlet.  It took some work to get the plug disengaged.  We had been running a heater overnight so we obviously were drawing some load and the heater was cycling on and off as it would reach the appropriate temperature.  I cut the end off off the plug and found that only the white wire and the connection to the plug were badly melted.  The green and the black wires looked fine.  Having read Maine Sail's posts about the problems with the standard shore power cords, I replaced the inlet and the cord with the Smart Plug system. 

My question is what would have caused the issue with just the white, neutral wire?  Could it have been something other than a bad connection and arcing at that one prong of the plug?  The EEL does not have a traditional locking ring but instead is a clamp with a locking tab, which I am pretty sure I engaged.  I always leave plenty of slack in the cord so it does not get pulled with any boat movement.  It may be a coincidence, but another slip tenant a dock over also said he had some charring/melting of his plug on the same night. 

Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated.  It is more a curiosity than anything at this point but something that has bothered me. 
#5
Main Message Board / C34 Manufacturing Photos
February 14, 2014, 08:14:51 AM
I was on the C36 site looking for something and I came across photos they had posted of a tour of the Catalina manufacturing facility in Woodland Hills, California that included several photos of the C34 in assembly:

http://www.catalina36.org/image/tid/18?page=1

Don't know that it is much more than a curiosity at this point but it may be interesting to see some images of how the boats (Mark IIs anyway) were made. 
#6
All three are available - speed, depth and wind.  These are ST60 instruments, not the ST60 Plus, but the functions are essentially the same.  Only one sun cover.  All work fine.  Transducers are not included.  $150 each (plus shipping) or $400 for all three. 

You can contact me at greenesail@sbcglobal.net or 414-899-7281. 
#7
I have a lot of the original Garhauer blocks from our 1989 C34, including the traveler equipment.  I have no need for it and would send any or all for the cost of shipping.  Let me know if you have need for a particular part and I will see if I have it.  Send me an e-mail at greenesail@sbcglobal.net
#8
Works fine, looks pretty good.  We bought it about five years ago and took it off last year only because we switched it out for a double clutch on the starboard side.  $25 plus shipping. 
#9
Main Message Board / Thanks
July 19, 2013, 09:56:36 AM
We said good bye to Serendipity this week.  As much as we loved her, the only thing we could not do to improve her was to make her bigger.  With two teenage girls and two dogs, we needed more room in order to do the cruising we want to do together as a family.  So, we are the happy owners of a 2004 C387, which I think is going to serve us well.  But the C34 is a great boat and we have a lot of happy memories of our time with her. 

I want to express my sincere thanks to all who make this such a great site.  We left Serendipity a far better boat than we found her but it was only because of the shared wisdom of all those who contribute here.  I know I am going to continue to return just because of the great sailing and general boat ownership knowledge to be found here. 

Fair winds,

Clay Greene
#10
Catalina 34s for Sale / Lewmar D1 rope clutch
June 26, 2013, 04:46:32 AM
I have an extra one for sale.  It works fine - we just replaced it with a double because we got rid of the latch cleat for the mainsheet.  It is a little sun-weathered but operation is good.  $25 plus shipping.  You can e-mail me at greenesail@sbcglobal.net and I will send a picture or two. 
#11
Catalina 34s for Sale / Lake Michigan C34 For Sale
June 03, 2013, 08:58:50 PM
Too many improvements to describe here.  Go to http://www.greatc34forsale.com for full details and many photos.
#12
Main Message Board / Varnish on deck
June 01, 2013, 07:37:57 PM
So, some yahoo in our boat yard decided to use a heat gun to strip old varnish off his boat and unfortunately he did so upwind of us when our cover was off. So, we have little orange flecks that are not coming off the nonskid with typical cleaning supplies. Any ideas on how to remove these spots without marring the nonskid? Thanks.
#13
Main Message Board / Observation
April 16, 2013, 07:52:41 AM
A friend who owns a C30 is having a mast leaking problem and asked for advice on diagnosing the source.  This lead me to the C30 owner's association website.  I don't mean any disrespect to the organizers of that website, but the contrast to ours is startling.  I have no doubt that if I was researching the same problem on our website, I would find in 15 minutes a detailed description of the problem, cause, and solution with step-by-step instructions and likely photos of each step in the process.  I don't think I have ever had a problem or an issue with my boat that has not been forensically dissected on this website and in the linked technical articles.  It is perhaps too easy to take this for granted until you see what limited information is available for other owners. 

So, this is my lengthy way of saying thanks to those who have made this such a great resource.  Stu and Ron of course come to mind but I am sure there are many others.  I can't imagine that there is a better owner's association website out there. 
#14
Main Message Board / Barrier Coat?
April 05, 2013, 07:52:21 AM
So, Serendipity is having the old bottom paint taken off today and we were debating whether to take it down to the fiberglass or to try to save the barrier coat.  The flaw in that thinking is that we were assuming we had a barrier coat.  From the test patch they did this morning, it does not look like one was applied.  Can anyone with a similar-aged boat (1989) report on what they have found when removing the old bottom paint?
#15
Main Message Board / Solenoid Project - Wire Size
August 02, 2012, 09:05:05 AM
I am about to tackle adding a solenoid to the glow plug circuit.  I have reviewed the project page and other posts and have seen that it is recommended to use 8 AWG or even 6 AWG wire to run from the starter to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the glow plug.  We're planning to install an Cole-Hersee insulated solenoid in the wood frame above the engine compartment (running a separate ground wire to the engine ground).  I have not measured this exactly yet but I don't think that the round trip between the starter and the glow plug is more than 8 feet and certainly not more than 10.  The amp draw of the glow plugs is less than 30 amps.  Both wire size charts I have consulted (West Marine and Blue Sea Systems) indicate that the appropriate wire size is 10 AWG even if it is an engine room installation.  Is there a reason I am missing why I need to use 8 AWG or 6 AWG?  I know bigger is better when it comes to wire size due to resistance but we're talking a relatively short distance and not a huge amp draw.  8 AWG is challenge to work with because it falls between my lug crimper and my racheting crimper.  Thanks. 
#16
We just bought a furler for our spinnaker and so are putting our sock up for sale.  It would be easily fitted to a new sail.  We bought it from National Sail Warehouse but it is the equivalent to an ATN sock.  It works great - we just did not want to have to send anyone up to the foredeck to raise and douse the kite.  We paid $320 new a couple of years ago but will sell it for $150 plus shipping.  You can reach me at greenesail@sbcglobal.net or 414-899-7281. 
#17
Here are a couple of our other spring project, installing shelves in the hanging locker in the salon and the aft cabin.  Both were far underused spaces on our boat, which was a real waste because there is a lot of unused storage space in both places.  The upper shelves in both locations are supported by wood blocks that are bolted through with washers on both sides to support the weight.  The shelves are three-quarter oak, which is heavy, but the shelves themselves are not going to take much weight.  The lower shelves in both locations are free-standing.  The lower shelf in the salon hanging locker has "feet" that are standing on a ledge below the frame of the locker.  The lower shelf in the aft cabin locker is just sitting in place.  We'll see if it moves when we are underway but it seems pretty secure.  I had made wood blocks to glue in place underneath but we are going to hold off on that for right now to see if they are necessary.  
#18
Main Message Board / Galley Sink Installation
April 09, 2012, 06:58:58 AM
Attached is a photo of our new sink installed in the galley.  The sink is a Polar Ware 102-1-2, which is currently selling on Amazon for $93 plus shipping.  This is in contrast to the Catalina Direct replacement sink, which they have listed for $537.  Nice contrast between marine and non-marine pricing!  I am sure Catalina Direct could make a persuasive argument as to why their sink is far superior but it should come with someone to wash the dishes for that price difference, in my humble opinion.  The Polar Ware sink does come with mounting bolts, which I took off with a cutting wheel rather than drill unnecessary holes into the formica.  It also comes without the faucet hole drilled and that was the most difficult part of the process.  I tried a bi-metal hole saw but all that did was scratch the surface.  I ended up drilling a half-inch hole with a titanium drill bit and then expanding it with the Dremel cutting wheel.  It took a little time but I ended up with something roughly circular.  The good news is that it is covered by the faucet and I am willing to bear the scorn of future boat owner when he or she removes the faucet.  We did end up installing the bar-style drains to catch food, which is a nice upgrade. I'll also post a second photo with the cutting board cover we made to protect the lesser-used side. 
#19
Main Message Board / Microwave
April 01, 2012, 06:50:34 AM
I am having difficulty finding a microwave that fits in the bow-end dish compartment in the galley in a Mark I boat.  I know from looking at the project pages that there are (or at least were) microwaves that fit in the space.  The problem is not in the width or the depth but in the height of the microwave.  The smallest I can find is about an inch too tall to get through the opening.  It does not appear that the trim piece on the cabinet comes off, which would be one way to solve the problem because there is additional top to bottom space behind this trim piece.  Any ideas?  Thanks.   
#20
Main Message Board / Stereo Mount
March 19, 2012, 12:43:00 PM
In our 1989 Mark I boat, we do not have a good place to flush mount a boat stereo.  There would be room in the face above the chart table but that is being used for a Raymarine instrument and the display for a tank monitor.  So, our stereo has been mounted in an ugly black plastic mount that was intended to be installed under a shelf but instead has been turned upside down with wood blocks on the bottom.  It is one of those things that annoyed me but never enough to investigate a replacement.  In the process of rebedding the chainplates, I managed to spill some cleaner down into the salon when I was getting the cursed silicone off the deck.  The cleaner perfectly dripped down onto the black plastic and scarred it for life.  I took this as a sign quite literally from above that it was time to go in search for a new stereo mount that would fit on the shelf on the port side of the boat.  

A C34 owner with greater carpentry skills than mine, of which there are no doubt many, would have purchased some teak lumber and gone to work.  My skill set is more in the purchasing arena so I went to work with my tool of choice - Google.  I ultimately found a teak dorade box manufactured by AFI under the SeaTeak brand at Amazon for $55.  From the dimensions given, it appeared that it was going to fit but it was going to be close. . . .

When I received it, I found that there was an internal baffle that must serve some venting purpose.  That was easily removed with a hacksaw.  I then had to cut out the hole for the face of the unit and the back.  A single-DIN stereo fits perfectly - the back of the stereo rests exactly on the rear cut-out for access to the connections.  I suppose I could have oiled it and left it to age to match the rest of the teak but I am looking for less things to oil on my boat, not more, so I applied three coats of Minwax spar urethane.  It is lighter than the surrounding teak but the color matches up perfectly with the ash paneling behind and it has the distinctive teak grain.  

And miracle of miracles, it fit exacly under the shelf and even left just enough room for the Ipod cord from the back.  For all the times I have complained about things not fitting by an eighth of an inch, this is some modest cosmic payback.  Photo attached.
#21
I have the following instruments for sale.  All work great and are in perfect cosmetic condition except where noted.  Shipping not included. 

1.  Raymarine ST60+ Speed display.  No transducer included.  $250. 

2.  Raymarine ST60+ Depth display.  No transduced included. Small scratch in corner of display.  $250 or $450 for pair of Speed and Depth. 

3.  Garmin GPSMap 545 Chartplotter.  $500. 

4.  Garmin GXM 31 antenna.  Get XM satellite weather overlay on screen and satellite radio service for the GPSMap 545.  Requires subscription to XM.  $150.

You can reach me at greenesail@sbcglobal.net.  Thanks!
#22
We have (and always have had) a 150 percent genoa on Serendipity.  However, we also have had a tendency toward a lot of weather helm as the wind gets over 10 knots apparent to the point that we need to roll in some of the sail by 15 knots.  That, of course, compromises the sail shape.  

I am contemplating purchasing a 135 in order to minimize the weather helm issue.  Anyone have experience with this?  I have read that there is not much added benefit between the 150 and the 135 in terms of boat speed.  We are recreational racers and do not tend to sail much in very light air when the 150 would probably be of the most benefit.  Serendipity is a Mark I boat so we have the smaller rudder, which I recognize is the source of most of the problem but I am not inclined to go as far as replacing the rudder at this point.  

Thoughts, suggestions, warnings?  Thanks.  
#23
So, I managed to get the old seals out and now am looking at getting the new seals in.  Looks like a very tight fit (not surprisingly, given that it is a seal).  Any trick to doing so without damaging them in the process other than a good coating of oil and an attempt to apply even pressure?  Thanks.  

[added Seal Replacement & w/Flix to title - Stu  1/19/12]
#24
Main Message Board / Catalina 385
September 07, 2011, 12:57:49 PM
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?slim=broker&boat_id=2387265&checked_boats=2387265&hosturl=sailplace&&ywo=sailplace&&ybw=&units=Feet&access=Public&listing_id=53789&url=

I wonder which model this boat is going to replace, the 375 or the 387?  Catalina sure seems to be turning over its product line. 
#25
Main Message Board / Fridge Light & Arm
July 10, 2011, 01:26:37 PM
Here are a couple of photos of two nice quality of life improvements we made this year to Serendipity.  The stainless steel bending arm and hinges for the fridge top are from West Marine.  The light is a cooler light from LL Bean.  It is LED and motion sensitive so it lights up when you reach in to find that last beer.  I used to think that I preferred the front-opening fridges you see on newer boats but these two changes have made our top opening fridge almost as functional.  Installation of all of this took less than a half hour. 
#26
Main Message Board / Mast pumping
June 13, 2011, 08:44:55 AM
We have what I believe to be a very annoying mast pumping problem and I am looking for some suggestions on how we can improve it.  I've read through the other posts and the tech wiki on this subject but I am hoping for some more targeted advice from others who have have dealt with this issue. 

The problem only seems to occur when we are docked in our slip.  We face west and the issue arises mainly when we have a north wind over 10 knots.  When it occurs, you can see the mast moving forward and aft approximately an inch or so.  It does not move at the partners (we are keel-stepped) or at the masthead.  The movement is mainly above the spreaders.  It looks like a guitar string that is tight on both ends and is vibrating at the middle.  You can feel the movement throughout the boat but it is worst in the v-berth.  We've never experienced it sailing, fortunately. 

We have a Loos tension gauge so I am pretty confident that the tension on the upper and lower stays are all approximately the same, in the range of 10 percent of the breaking strength of the wire.  The mast is straight fore and aft and port and starboard. 

The one remaining tuning option I have considered is to increase the backstay tension.  I have taken out about as much tension I can at the turnbuckle and it is still less than ten percent of the breaking strength and a little floppy.  I'll need to get at the forestay turnbuckle and see if I can take out some of the slack that way. 

Any other ideas would be much appreciated.  Thanks!

#27
Main Message Board / White for Blue?
April 06, 2011, 07:30:47 PM
I am soon to become the owner of a Mark II boat.  Anyone interested in trading white leather salon cushion covers for either blue leather or blue fabric?  The covers in our boat look to be in excellent shape but we would prefer the blue.  We'd have to figure out how to get the covers off the two boards around the table but I figure what can be installed can be uninstalled.  Send me an e-mail if you are interested.  Thanks. 
#28
Main Message Board / Boat Storage Question
March 08, 2011, 04:44:01 PM
Attached is a 2004 C34 stored in an unusual manner, at least to us.  As you can see, the keel is unsupported.  Our understanding is that the boat has been on the hard since August 2009 in this cradle, which obviously was made for a different boat.  We looked at the hull and did not see any evidence of deformation or cracking but obviously we cannot see under the pads.  If we make an offer, we would plan to have the surveyor inspect for any damage but I am skeptical of how thorough such surveys can be.  Any thoughts on whether this method of storage is acceptable?   Thanks.
#29
Main Message Board / Engine corrosion
March 06, 2011, 04:06:28 PM
I am attaching a photo of corrosion and what looks like a hole in what I believe to be the water pump of a M35B engine in a 2004 Mark II boat I saw this weekend.  The boat was sailed in salt water until 2009 and it has sat on the hard since then.  Anyone have any theories on what could cause this extent of corrosion?  What would be the implications for the rest of the engine?  The engine meter shows 221 hours. 
#30
Main Message Board / C355 Photos
September 15, 2010, 08:24:24 PM
Are now on the Catalina website:

http://www.catalinayachts.com/yachts.cfm?act=model&id=191&link=photos

A pretty radical design departure, in my opinion.  Thanks to Catalina for maintaining the value of my "classic" C34. 
#31
Main Message Board / Fluxgate compass deviation
August 26, 2010, 04:06:03 AM
Any ideas on why the fluxgate compass for my Raymarine S1 autopilot would suddenly start to experience 30 degrees of deviation?  The compass has been in the same location for the last three years.  We calibrated it by doing the two 360 degree turns when we installed it and it indicated it had two degrees of deviation.  It has always tracked the GPS heading and the pedestal compass very closely.  A couple of weeks ago, we noticed that it was 45-60 degrees off.  We recalibrated it last night and it reported 30 degrees of deviation.  We have not put anything metal in the compartment in which it is installed.  In fact, I took everything out of that compartment and it had no effect.  We did make some changes to the networked instrument wiring this summer that ran through the autopilot "brain" but it does not seem likely that signal interference from one of these other wires would be causing this result.  Thoughts? Ideas?  Thanks!
#32
We're looking to buy a Mark II boat, preferably navy canvas on exterior and navy interior, furling main preferred but not required.  We're only looking at freshwater boats.  Thanks!
#33
Main Message Board / Worst boat project ever?
June 18, 2010, 08:50:34 PM
I am wondering if anyone can beat this one.  In process of installing a holding tank sensor, we realized that the hoses to and from our waste tank smell. . . ., well, not exactly like lilacs on a spring morning,  if you know what I mean.  So, being responsible boat owners and not wanting our boat to smell like the zoo, we decide to replace the hoses.  We purchase the good white hoses and dutifully replace the hose from the head to the holding tank, the hose from the holding tank to the deck, and the vent hose.  There is just one hose left, the nasty black hose connecting the macerator to the holding tank.  Our boat has always been a Great Lakes boat and will always be one as long as I own it, so I decide that the macerator needs to go.  It is not even hooked up to the throughhull so it is a relatively simple job to unscrew it from the bulkhead and to clip the wires (which, as it turns out, were not even attached to the control panel).  The problem is the hose that is connected to the macerator from the absolute lowest point of the holding tank.  Now, we're not complete idiots, we go over to get the tank pumped out before I remove the hose from the tank (at this point my wife has chosen to go read her book in the cockpit - other than marrying me, she is a smart woman).  I carefully put paper towels under the tank and i have a section of hose pre-cut with a capped end to replace the macerator hose.  The old hose comes off surprisingly easily and I am then faced with - well, you can guess.  Let's just say that the pump out was not even 90 percent effective in getting out the accumulated sludge (and that is the kindest word I could use to describe it - I just involuntarily shuddered with a sense memory of the experience).  So, after several rolls of paper towels and several liberal applications of bleach spray, we now have beautiful white hoses running to and from our holding tank and a sparkling clean space that runs under the floor and into the bilge.  I will sell the boat before I do that particular project again. 

So, that is my nominee.  Anyone have anything worse?
#34
Main Message Board / Head teak floor mat
June 15, 2010, 10:15:08 AM
Thought there might be interest in seeing a photo of the new teak floor we had made for the head in our 1989 C34.  The company that made it is teakworks4u (http://www.teakworks4u.com) in the Minneapolis area.  They really did a nice job compensating for the 1 inch slope undernead the toilet - it has just required a little shimming to make it lie completely flat.  Big improvement over the 21-year old floor underneath. Total cost with shipping was approximately $250 (and they now have a template for the Mark I boat) and they got it to me a week after I approved the quote.  Some of you home carpenters may have done this yourself already but this is far beyond my limited skills, particularly given the weird configuration of the head floor!
#35
We would like to install a waste tank sensor so we have some advance warning of the need for a pump out.  To install the sensor, we need to run two adhesive strips down the vertical length of the tank.  The only place to do this is on the aft end of the tank.  Unfortunately, this is going to require removal of the wood frame piece that looks to be glassed into the surrounding area.  We should not have any problem cutting the old wood panel free with a Dremel.  I am looking for thoughts on what we would use to reinstall the wood panel.  Would it just be fiberglass mat and West epoxy?  I have not had to do any fiberglass work before so I am looking for some guidance on how to go about this.  Thanks!
#36
Main Message Board / Galley faucet replacement
April 11, 2010, 05:08:11 PM
I am considering replacing the Grohe galley faucet with a more modern faucet with a pull-out handle.  From looking at other posts, it appears that a standard kitchen faucet will work.  Yet, we are trying to figure out a way to get the old faucet out.  Does anyone have experience with this project?  Does it require removing the sink? 
#37
Main Message Board / Flex-o-Fold Folding Prop
April 10, 2010, 08:05:49 AM
Hi all - considering moving from my fixed three-blade prop on my 1989 C34 (M25XP) engine to a Flex-o-Fold.  Any thoughts on two-blade versus three-blade and a pitch of 9 versus 10?  The recommendation from the sales representative was either a two-blade with a 10 pitch or a three-blade with a 9 pitch.  I need to question him further on why the pitch difference between 9 and 10.

I want to improve speed under sail, of course, but I don't want to compromise motoring performance.  We cruise and as often as not we end up motoring or motor sailing to get across Lake Michigan before nightfall.  The two-blade is significantly less expensive so if the difference between the two is marginal I would probably go with cost as the deciding factor. 

Thanks for any input or experiences you wish to share. 
#38
Main Message Board / Aft engine access
February 23, 2009, 02:32:15 PM
Has anyone modified the cabinet in the aft cabin on a Mark I boat to get better access to the rear portion of the engine?  I believe that this is a feature of the Mark II boats that I would like to see if I can add.  Getting to the transmission fluid dipstick is pretty difficult through the access panel.  I checked the projects file and did not see anything.  Thanks!