Messages

Ron..I'm.curious on what you meant on starter solenoid threads to engine block via a screw driver shank..do you mean the battery positive post on the solenoid then touch the engine block?

Those dragging needle vacuum gauges are kinda hard to find on the web,well,inexpensive ones anyway..without the dragging needle you find them everywhere for around ten bucks but with the needle they soar to around 70 dollars (my search anyway)..anyone have a source for a decent price.? Like 25-30?

Thanks Ron, yes I have the 25xp with the Hurth 50.  it is a 2;1 reduction, using a handheld laser  with reflecting tape on the crank pully and output shaft on the tranny, I read 50 RPM low at all speeds, i;e at 2000 rpm, I get 950 on the transmission shaft, never did check it before my prop re pitch, 50 rpm below half rpm probably not enough to reflect that much speed loss, can't turn the prop by hand while on the hard in gear, (one of the tests that was suggested to do on the tranny)
just wondering if its a possibility that a over pitch prop can cause the transmission to start slipping.  Is it something to consider when re pitching prop?

I had my 3 blade prop repitched from 9 to 10, boat speeded up a little and then started to slow down throughout the summer, instead of 6 knots at 2300 RPM  i am now at 4.8 to 5 knots, calm  seas, no extra weight, I have investigated a few things, and a few more to go, but is it possible too much pitch can damage or cause the transmission to slip?  could be just coincidental that something else is going on with my boat to make it slow down right after the prop was repitched.

3 years ago in May we had a lot of icebergs in the apostle islands, went with a friend on his boat dodging the bergs, or floating ice sheets, was a lot of fun, I can see where it would be a rush, OK, been there and done that, now its the BVI's or close to it for me from now on.  Something about beating the elements does appeal to some, , wow living on your boat in the winter must be challenging, What do you use for a heater, I know the boats aren't insulated well, I've stayed on my boat occasionally in the winter with a 1500 watt electric heater,  never did get too warm, good luck get out there and have fun my friend, winter is long and life is short.

thanks Dave and Ron, I like the one piece board because I can screw my cover/tarp to it and not care really what it looks like, saves my beautiful doors from winter woes, I also wire tie those pipe insulation foam things on my hand rails, been doing this  for 4 winters now and my rails stay pristine during the winter

going to the boat to winterize and can't find my winter door so would like to make one to fit in the grooves where the 2 door slats go, have looked on the site and can't find the overall opening size.  would like to make the door before i go to the boat.  thanks all.. 88 catalina 34

Thanks Ken, very interesting . I retired from a large utility company and have been bragging the virtues of Kroil over all others, just had a wake-up call, must have thought it was the best because of the expense,

This probably isn't the fix for you, but, my temp gauge was reading erratic ,  I have a 160 Tstat, but the temp gauge was reading between 175 and 190, erratically, my ignition switch went bad and after I replaced it,  the temp gauge settled in at 160 steady, been that way for 10 years.

Yes my prop is a 3 blade, I have checked my speed with my handheld gps, phone app, boats moving along side me and everyone has same speed.  I do think your tack is probably off, my hand held strobe rpm checker was fairly cheap, under 20 bucks amazon and real easy to use.  I would definitely start with that.  Let me know what your buddy with the 88 says.  This board has been very helpful helping me figure out why the boat is slowing down and I have checked a number of suggested items it may be, but it still runs about a knot slower than it used to 2 years ago at same rpm.  Didn't mean to hijack your thread about my problem.. Good luck Dale

Dale, I have a similar problem, using a strobe hand held tack, my panel mounted tack was off about 200 rpm, all that said, my boat has slowed down too.  at 2300 rpm I used to get around 5.5 knots with a 15/9 prop, had it repitched to 15/10, I increased the speed at 2300 rpm to about 5.9 knots, was happy, but then the boat started slowing down, I am now around 4.8-5 knots at 2300 rpm, getting used to it, the tranny has passed all the tests I have been advised to check.  prop shaft rpm is is about 50 rpm below half of engine rpm.  can't turn prop by hand when in gear and on hard, clean bottom, calm seas, no weight on boat to speak of. Tranny flushed and new fluid every spring, clean filters clean screen on facet pump, learning to just live with it,  although someone said may have a vacuum leak in fuel line, (my next check) or injector pump may be wore, (don't know how to check that)I can get 3000 rpm at dock, and can achieve 6 knots at full throttle (3000 rpm), (hand held strobe) panel tack reads 3200, briefly when at sea.  None of this probably helps you but when I see another cruiser talk about boat slowing down I respond.  Good luck, I have the 25xp in a 1988

when I get back to the slip from a few days out I simply drop my shop vac suction hose to the bottom of my fridge (my indispensable small 35 dollar shop vac from Ace Hardware that sucks and blows,) while cleaning the boat.  I've never used the foot pump, don't even know if it works, think I'll remove it and use the space for cleaning supply shelf or something, or I'll put the valve in like Jon W did in case my small shop vac isn't available when I defrost. I also use that small shop vac to suck out the bilge when cleaning it, anyway that's the way I do it,

I agree with Noah, my starboard strip disappeared, finally got it out and it was shaped like a accordion, going have to screw it down, I don't think the hatch slide goes all the way to the closed end so not sure if it has to be countersunk. 

So what is the process if your pump fails.  if the engine can run without the pump when the tank is full, does the fuel pass through the failed pump or do we have to bypass it, if so, how do we bleed the system, i'm thinking we crack the knurled knob and let gravity do its job? I have never had a problem and I just received my spare pump from amazon but curious about running without pump in a emergency situation

Wow, lot of work, you are not the only one Noah, my starboard strip slide got bunched up but was able to grab it and pull it out, one end looked like a accordion, was able to reinstall it and it straightened out ok, haven't had a chance to secure them  like you did but after reading your post, will do it for sure, and soon, thanks for the infor Noah