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I replaced mine with a K&N and did away with all of this.

Paul

I had a similar problem but on my port side cabin top winch.  The spines were galled.  Not sure how that happens.  I had a friend turn it in his lathe and reassembled and have been using it for several years without problems.  It does get very light used however.  It raises the jib at the beginning of the season and it gets used to adjust halyard tension, but not as much as a secondary gets used.  Before replacing it keep in mind that these get used at low speed, compared to an engine, and a relatively small irregularity will cause minimal wear over a years time at these loads and speeds.

FWIW-I had my entire bottom soda blasted down to the gel coat last spring for $1800.  $5000 seems very high to me.

With a an electrical budget, you are telling the electrons where to go, not wondering where they went.

Behind that bulkhead is where they were installed on the later models.  Don't have a picture to share, but someone will.

Thanks Stu.  I have read those write ups and they are very helpful.  What I am considering, is adding an inch or so to the leading edge to balance the steering.  By putting some surface area in front of the post it will decrease the force needed to steer with the added surface behind the post.  I fly radio control planes and this is often done with large control surfaces.  I may just be overthinking the whole thing.

Has anyone that has done the rudder modification added to the forward edge to keep the rudder balanced?  If so, how much did you add?  I am contemplating doing this to keep the steering for needing too much force, but if too much is added it will make it difficult to control.

I made a squirt bottle out of a clean 1 liter soda bottle.  I drilled a small hole in the cap.  A spare cap seals the deal on any left overs.

Just splashed as is.  It was getting to be a long project as a couple repairs had to be done to the bottom.  These were covered by the old bottom paint.  There was cracking around the skeg and I had to fair out the keel.  Also has the start of a smile.  Nothing horrendous but it all takes time.  If time allows next spring I may burnish it, but since I crew for someone else and don't race this boat, it isn't a priority.  I am considering doing Ron's rudder modification next spring, as this has finally made it to the top of the list.  The admiral is getting tired of rounding up.  Frankly, I am also!

FWIW-The boat is on the hard for the winter.  No blisters and the bottom was very clean.  The VC17 certainly improved boat speed.  I first noticed it after launch.  I revved the throttle to my usual RPM.  I looked at the knot meter and noticed that I was going 1.5 knots faster than usual.  My first reaction  was to recalibrate the knot meter, but the GPS also said the same.  Also noticed that the boat did not slow as quickly when coming in to dock, which made for some tension the first couple times.  Very happy.  Thanks for the advice.

If it fits I would go with it.  There seem to be many configurations and pulley sizes that I don't think there is a right or wrong belt as long as it is the right length and width.

Bob,

If the USB shorted you have that problem figured out.  If it was the receptacle arcing that is a different problem.  Arcing does not cause overcurrent and will not blow the fuse.  However, arcing does cause fires.  If it is arcing, replace the receptacle.

Jim,

Boil 1-2 cups of water.  Pour it over the side of the tank.  Run you hand down the tank.  Find the point where the tank goes from feeling warm (empty) to cool (filled with propane).  That is your propane level.  Simple but effective.

I know that this isn't a professional quality tool, but for the occasional user I have found Hazard Fraught tool to work for me.

  http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

May save some boating bucks.  Would be interested if others have used this.  The second review says he used it to rewire his boat.

I agree with Stu in that it is probably more about the connections than we want to believe.  Shortly after doing this modification my engine would not start from the start battery.  When trouble shooting it I found a poor joint to one of the ring connectors.  Thankfully, my teenage son had been helping me, so I had a scape goat!  Keeping the electron jumping distance to a minimum really does make a difference.