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Messages - dgill

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
1
Fleet 12 / Re: Catalina Fleet 12
« on: June 18, 2018, 10:54:33 AM »
Third Raft Up of the 2018 Chesapeake Fleet 12 C34 Season.

We met in the West River.  Raft host, BAYTRIPPER was on site at 1500 hrs.  Along side were First Point of Aries, Champagne, Southern Cross and Blue Horizon.  Perfect weather, even had wind to sail to the West River.  Lots of good company and food.  Looking forward to more...

Next few scheduled events:
06/30/18 - Clements Creek
07/21/18 - Choptank River/Boby Owl Cove
08/08/18 - Annapolis (mooring) to watch the Wed nite races on board BayTripper - take the water taxi or bring your boat and dinghy over.
09/08/18 - Wye River/Shaw Bay - on the water concert: Them Eastport Oyster Boys / bring your dinghy and appetizers to share with everyone

Contact Fleet Captain Dave Scheder at Schdls@icloud.com for additional information.

posted: First Point of Aries 1987 C34     

2
Fleet 12 / FLEET 12 Annual 2014 Fall Meeting - Save the Date -
« on: July 15, 2014, 07:14:58 AM »
CHESAPEAKE BAY FLEET 12 WILL HOST IT'S 2014 FALL MEETING ON SEPTEMBER 13TH AND 14.

LOCATION:  LANKFORD BAY MARINA - DAVIS CREEK OFF OF LANKFORD CREEK.
                             23002 McKinley ROAD, ROCK HALL, MARYLAND

PHONE:  410 778-1414 FOR SLIP RESERVATIONS.

PLEASE CONTACT:  D. GILL AT fpoa34@aol.com for additional details.

FLEET 12 WILL HOLD IT'S ANNUAL FALL MEETING IN THIS BUCOLIC SETTING.  THE MARINA HAS WONDERFUL FACILITIES WHICH INCLUDE A VERY NICE PAVILLION, POOL, SHOWERS, SHIPS STORE, FUEL, ICE, LAUNDRY AND BIKE RENTALS.  THE SAIL ALONG THE CHESTER RIVER TO DAVIS CREEK IS ONE OF THE NICEST ON THE BAY!  YOU MIGHT BE LUCKY AND CATCH A LOG CANOE RACE AT THE CONFLUENCE OF THE CORSICA, CHESTER AND LANKFORD. 

3
Main Message Board / Re: Galley fresh water manual pump.
« on: June 12, 2014, 01:42:57 PM »
Here is a suggestion:

Completely detach the fridge drain hose from the foot pump.  Using this same short length of water hose which is still attached to the fridge drain (but no longer attached to the foot pump), now add at the distal end a shut off valve.  If this existing length of hose is not long enough, get a longer piece of hose, it should be long enough to allow you to bring it/and the shut off valve outside of the lower cabinet door.  Now just place a small container on the floor and put the hose/shut off valve into the container (a small plastic pan about 8 x 10 works really well), open the valve and let the water drain from the fridge.  As your pan fills, shut the valve, empty the pan into the galley sink, and then repeat.

Now you can use your foot pump solely (no pun intended) for your fresh water system - just plumb it into one of the tanks.  In my system I have cut off valves that isolate both the fore and aft tanks so that I can draw from either and I can also isolate the foot pump when I want to use 12v system.  It works.  Try it.

D. Gill
#389

4
Main Message Board / Re: Stack Pack for main sail
« on: December 16, 2013, 01:46:26 PM »
I have the Doyle Stack Pack on my 1987 C34 and it is great.  There is no problem zipping it up, on our boats.  If you sail short handed it is especially nice.  I also have the Tide Track on the mast and the sail drops immediately right into the stack pack.   

D. Gill

5
Main Message Board / Re: Blackdragon Repower
« on: July 21, 2013, 06:39:27 AM »
I also repowered my 1987 C34, but chose to use the BETA 28.  I chose the upgraded engine panel as well.  I am very happy with this new engine.  Because it is Kubota based it is familiar and the BETA has many features that make it user friendly ~ such as the oil change pump mounted on the starboard side of the engine.  While the old M25XP (approx. 3500 hrs) still ran, it was beginning to require too much attention.  Additionally, I have always felt it was underpowered for my boat.  I was able to sell this engine to a Tartan owner who is repowering from an Atomic 4.   :thumb:

6
Main Message Board / Re: Re-powering
« on: November 30, 2012, 07:51:37 AM »
Hey Stu,

Thanks for the info. and the chart/history.  I am edified. 

DGill

7
Main Message Board / Re: Re-powering
« on: November 30, 2012, 06:50:47 AM »
Hi Larry,

My 1987 C34 had an M25XP.  Good engine.  Has nearly 3000 hrs on it.  Good compression.  I am re-powering because I want a bit more power.  I am retiring this coming June and am expecting to be using my boat more.  So even though I might have gone several thousand more hours on the M25XP my experience with it on my boat is that it is under-powered.  I think back then the 23hp was a price point decision for Catalina.  Anyway, to answer your question, I am having a BETA 28 installed.  This engine, with the Atomic 4 mounts (which lower it a bit) will fit nicely in the engine room.  The BETA also is Kubota based so there are the advantages associated with that, as you all know.  Additionally, this engine is pretty user friendly and has the nice feature of a built in oil change pump.  This engine will be upgraded with a serpentine belt/pully system.  I also will have the upgraded cockpit panel which has more gauges.  There are other things that I just can't remember at the moment.  I hope that this helps.  D. Gill

8
Catalina 34s for Sale / M25XP ENGINE FOR SALE (SOLD)
« on: November 06, 2012, 04:19:00 AM »
[/color]UNIVERSAL M25XP ENGINE FOR SALE.  HAS APPROXIMATELY 3000 HOURS.  TWO OWNERS.  1987 C-34.

MY BOAT IS BEING RE-POWERED WITH MORE HORSEPOWER.  ENGINE IS IN GOOD CONDITION WITH EXCELLENT COMPRESSION ~ ALWAYS STARTS RIGHT UP.  ENGINE WOULD COME WITH SOME SPARES.

PLEASE EMAIL FPOA34@AOL.COM.

ENGINE WILL BE COMING OUT OF MY BOAT THE WEEK OF NOVEMBER 12TH.

BOAT IS LOCATED IN ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND

9
Main Message Board / Re: prop polishing
« on: October 23, 2012, 06:08:05 AM »

Here is a product that might help with Prop fouling:  I bought some at the Annapolis Boat Show and am going to try it for next season.  Nothing much else works..... 
 
LanoCote® Prop & Bottom™ is an economical and very effective marine foul release coating.  Produced by boaters for boaters, it is a well tested marine foul release based on lanolin and other biodegradable additives.

When applied according to directions to metal props and running gear, it can provide up to six months, or more in some cases, protection from the growth of algae, sea grass, and a wide variety of worms, corals and barnacles.

What is LanoCote Prop & Bottom and How Does It Work?

LanoCote® Prop & Bottom™ is a proprietary formula designed for application while the boat is on the hard, or while in the water. (See application tips below).  It is a “foul release” coating, and as such, it provides a surface condition to which common marine growth has difficulty adhering.

The coating or “skin” that forms makes it very difficult for marine organisms – algae, sea grass, and a wide variety of worms, corals and barnacles – to get a firm grip on your boat’s running gear and the result is that motion through the water causes the release of this growth.

LanoCote Prop & Bottom is naturally green, naturally sourced, bio-renewable, non-toxic, and biodegradable.  It is also California Prop 65 compliant and contains no petrochemicals or known carcinogens

Why LanoCote Prop & Bottom and What Can It Do For Me?

LanoCote® Prop & Bottom™ is a very economical and very effective marine foul release coating.  When correctly applied, it keeps props, running gear and even boat bottoms free of marine growth for extended periods of time – up to six months, or more in some cases.  Its effectiveness can vary based on local conditions.  In all cases it is economical to use and provides the foul free surfaces that are critical for efficient operation.

This surface coating will cause growth to be thrown off of props and stripped from bottoms while the boat is underway.  If a boat is used infrequently growth is likely to occur, but at a reduced rate and quantity.  LanoCote Prop & Bottom will allow growth to be easily wiped free from the waterline, bottom and running gear by an owner or professional diver in the water or hosed off on the hard.

An important side benefit to this product is the corrosion protection it provides.  This can be a significant cost savings over several seasons, as the life of expensive bronze, aluminum or stainless steel parts will be prolonged.

What To Expect:

We have found that success will depend on local conditions.  LanoCote Prop & Bottom can provide excellent results in a great many regions, though local water temperatures, salinity and local water chemistry, along with local marine life can affect the outcome.  We suggest you test LanoCote Prop & Bottom on you prop for a month or two to measure the results.

As you find success in your local conditions, remember that LanoCote Prop & Bottom is an excellent bottom coating for all the same reasons.  In all cases common marine growth simply wipes off props and bottoms when hauled or when in the water.

And there is no waiting time after application…just re-launch.  The trademark whitish skin will form in 72 hours.
Application Tips:

Application can be accomplished either with the boat on the hard or in the water.  The surfaces should be clean as they would be for applying bottom paint.

An even coating is recommended, approximately .010In (.25mm) or the thickness of a business card.  Running the prop and water motion over running gear will smooth out the application, and remember that thinner is better:  .010 in. (.25mm) in most conditions.  This smoothing can easily be achieved on hull applications by launching and getting underway with freshly applied Prop & Bottom. 

Prop, Shafts and Running Gear – Under Water:  Apply to a cleaned metal surface while under the water as follows.  Take a golf ball sized handful of LanoCote Prop & Bottom at 50-70 °F (10-21 °C) and press and spread smoothly on to surface to a thickness of approximately .010In (.25mm) or the thickness of a business card.  Launch any time.  A whitish skin will form in 72 hours or less.

Note: If needed, slightly warm LanoCote Prop & Bottom to the consistency of soft putty or butter.  Do not use liquid/melted LanoCote Prop & Bottom in the water as it will float out of the jar.  If it becomes melted from heat or the sun, just cool a closed jar in the water until it is firm as soft butter.

Prop, Shafts and Running Gear – On The Hard:  Remove all debris and clean down to bright metal.  Sand with 80-grit paper or finer to add “tooth” to prop surface.  Clean surfaces with solvent and heat metal parts/use sunlight to 100-120 °F (38-49 °C) for longest lasting results.  Apply by hand/ paintbrush to a thickness of approx .010In (.25mm.)

Boat Hull or Inflatable Bottom:  Apply to a clean bottom with vessel on the hard.  Heat LanoCote Prop & Bottom to approx 100-120 °F (38-49 °C) and roll on smoothly with a short nap roller to a thickness of approx .010In (.25mm) or the thickness of one business card.  Launch any time.  LanoCote Prop & Bottom will produce a whitish skin after approximately 72 hours in the water.
Cleanup:
Disposable latex, nitrile or vinyl gloves are recommended to keep hands free of the stickiness of the substance.  LanoCote Prop & Bottom is designed to be sticky and tenacious to adhere to your props, running gear and hull – and it will also stick to just about everything else.
Mineral sprits and disposable rags will clean LanoCote Prop & Bottom from surrounding surfaces and tools.
LanoCote® Prop & Bottom™ is available at better marine stores and online at www.forespar.com.
 770035
 LANOCOTE Prop & Bottom, 16oz.
 $39.00

 
 

10
Main Message Board / Re: Alternator Not Charging?
« on: June 08, 2012, 07:50:41 AM »
You might check to see how your house and start batteries are being used to "start" your engine.  Do you turn the (Perko) switch to the start battery?  If so the voltage gauge in the cockpit will be measuring just this batteries voltage (particularly if this gauge is connected to just this battery).  On my boat the house bank and start battery are on separate switches so the start battery voltage is measured at the gauge in the cockpit while the house batteries are monitored by a Link 10.

I have a MaxCharge Regulator and it has what is called a "soft ramp up", which means that the Balmar Alternator does not put a load on the engine right away.  The Tach therefore also does not "work" immediately either.

Another thing to think about is moving your ARS-4 Regulator out of the engine room.  The heat from the engine room is definitely not good for this sensitive item.  I moved the regulator out of the engine room after one failed there.  Have not a problem since.


11
Main Message Board / Re: mooring balls on back creek?
« on: March 08, 2012, 07:33:21 AM »


Just wanted to add that I was over at Bert Jabin's recently and the five mooring balls are just off of their docks (closer to Jabins than Port Annapolis), but on your port as you come down Back Creek past Port Annapolis.

12
Main Message Board / Re: Through Hull Replacement?
« on: November 18, 2011, 07:22:21 AM »
Usually what fails is the bedding.  But due the Ron Hill influence, I am a believer in "belt and suspenders".  The cost of renewing the parts and the bedding out weighed the cost at some future time of hauling out and doing it again if one of the "used" parts failed.  So all were replaced and rebed and now I suspect they should last another decade or two.

13
Main Message Board / Re: Through Hull Replacement?
« on: November 16, 2011, 06:20:12 AM »
Hi Steve,

Bottom paint coming off of the exterior portion of the thru hull is not a big deal.

I have a 1987 C34 and several years ago, at spring re-launch, I noticed that three of the thru hulls were "leaking" at the are of the bond and hull.  I had the boat re-hauled and replaced all of the thru hulls with the exact same items, at that time.  If you regularly monitor your thru hulls you will know when you have an issue. 

DGill


14
Main Message Board / Re: Transmission?
« on: June 02, 2011, 07:35:18 AM »
Hey John,

There is a tach calibration tool in the Fleet 12 "Tool Box" that you can borrow. 

D. Gill

15
Main Message Board / Re: GORE GFO Packing Material
« on: February 07, 2011, 08:55:57 AM »

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