Messages

Thank you Noah!

Thanks Noah.  I'm still on the traveler topic.  Some other folks added a discussion of stanchions.  The traveler has a through bolt on each side.  Thanks for confirmation that there are other bolts secured to an internal plate.  I haven't been able to expose the heads as all of the bolts on the traveler are currently stuck.  That's why I'm asking about the impact screwdriver.  It may be overkill but it may be the only way to get the bolts to move. Has anyone had corrosion issues related to the interface of aluminum and stainless?

Last question for the community: I had asked earlier in this thread about the gap under the far port side of the traveler and attached pictures. I think this seems like a likely path for my water intrusion, hence the questions regarding my problems removing it. The traveler does not appear to be deformed. Has anyone experienced this? Any ideas as to what to do to eliminate the gap?

I couldn't get the bolts out!  There are two bolts with large washers and nuts inside the cabin but they don't turn easily.  The others must be screws or are bolted to something internal between the deck and inside ceiling and they don't turn at all.  I'm thinking of using an impact screwdriver.  Any thoughts out there?

Also I'm still wondering about the gap between the traveler and the tower. I'm wondering if anyone has seen this before.  I assume one of the bolts that secures the traveler is exposed there.  I'll know better once I can get the bolts to turn.

Hey rjabara,  I'm happy to see that you've found your leak!

I still haven't found the source of the brown water leak in my head but may be on to something.  I borrowed a moisture meter from our marina's mechanic and found moisture in the port support tower for the traveler.  It seems like an easy removal/caulking/replacement but I noticed that on the port side there is a gap on the left side of the support.  The traveler sits solidly on the right side.  I thought that maybe the traveler was bent but it definitely has an upward bow across its length.

Picture is attached.  As I look at it now it seems the end sits on the tower but that may be a function of the angle.  Either way, the traveler sits flush on the starboard tower. 

Bottom line is that I'll remove an re-caulk the traveler but wonder what the community's thoughts are as to the gap. 

Thanks Jon.

Thank you Ken.  It makes sense that both work off of the same wire.  I will replace the broken hour meter.

As far as the wiring goes the "open" orange wire is part of the upgrade bundle that was installed at some point in the past.  It looks like perhaps an 18 gauge wire. Was such a thin wire used running to the ammeter? The tape has what looks like an S and something that's illegible before it has tach written on it.

Thanks Kevin.  I assume you took power off of the fuel pump.  If so, which terminal feeds the meter?

So I should be able to check for power to the hour meter with the ignition switch in the on position and test leads on the send and ground posts?  Just wondering where the tach itself gets its input regarding engine speed.

Thanks Ken, I have updated my profile as you suggested.  I will try to attach a few photos using the preview page.  Among them will be the rear of the tach.  I looked at the wiring diagram in the manual and, assuming it represents a rear view, the ignition and send are juxtaposed relative to my unit.  So it's helpful that you've said to attach to SEND.  Now the troubling part. There is a somewhat orange/brown wire on the send post and no additional ring terminal.  Its absence had me wondering, but with the info you've laid out I'm wondering if the loose orange wire was never connected (even though it's labelled tach) and the hour meter mechanism is actually stuck.  Next time I'm at the boat I'll check for power at the send post but I'm not clear on how to deal with a stuck mechanism.

By the way, the tach works but not the hour meter

My hour meter on my 1990 C34 stopped working recently so I pulled the panel today and found a loose orange wire with a tape label saying Tach.  Before that it says what looks like an S and something that's illegible.  It looks like it could have broken at the insulation, or perhaps was cut.  I was thinking it's possibly what should power the meter. Does anyone know offhand which connector on the back of the Tach gets the wire which powers to hour meter?  I'd like to include some pics I took but am unable to figure out how to do so.

The tach has connections that say send, GND, ign and Lt+ (the latter which I know powers the lamps).

Thanks!

I have two questions for Noah and SCGunner since their hulls are just a few numbers from mine (I've noticed comments regarding structural differences from my c34 in boats of different vintages).  I have the thought stuck in my head that I read somewhere that the fittings on the intake and output ends of the scupper hose are slightly different diameters.  I know that makes no sense, but can you confirm what is the case?

Also, my electric bilge pump hose just lies on the hull and runs to the bilge through the area accessed by the door in the head.  If yours is looped, where is the loop attached to?

Thanks again.

Thanks guys for the advice.  Everyone is always so helpful.  I appreciate that.

Yes Noah, the barb looks like it's at a bit of an angle which is very troubling to me, but so far I'm not seeing and leakage.  I assume it's a fitting that screws into the tank?  It was hard to tell with the tank in place.

Noah suggested I check the bilge pump hoses as well, which is a great Idea.  I'll be checking everything that lies behind the water tank.... just in case.  I have regular 120 style sump pump hoses and they attach next to the scupper hoses.  Was that standard?  What type of hoses do you all have on the sump pumps?  Thanks again.