Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - tvorgitch

#1
Main Message Board / Re: Microwave died
Yesterday at 08:40:20 PM
I checked my boat today and it appears to be this one: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/oster-0-7-cu-ft-compact-microwave-silver/1088665.p?skuId=1088665

Here's how it fits
#2
I too have started my engine while on shore power and I've never had the tach not work when my batteries are fully charged. I find it hard to believe the 5 amps from my charger would make any difference to the glow plugs.

What would cause the tach to not function if the batteries are fully charged?
#3
Main Message Board / Re: K75 motor mounts.
January 20, 2024, 09:04:40 AM
I had similar issues after having a new shaft, coupler and cutless bearing installed. I shared a video on this forum and the consensus was that I needed new mounts. I installed K75 & K50 mounts and saw some improvement but still had significant vibration had higher RPMs.

Someone pointed out that the torque from the running engine is going to change the alignment so you really need to make fine adjustments while the engine is running.

I secured the boat in the slip and marked each nut with nail polish so I could easily count turns. I had a friend put the boat in gear and bring it up to 1500 RPM and observed the vibration. He would then go to idle/neutral a I would make small adjustments.

I got very lucky in that after moving the front mounts up a few turns there was a dramatic improvement. I locked them in without thinking that I should have continued in the same direction and "centered" alignment, but I'm still very happy with the results.

If you someone who can assist you, this isn't much work and might solve your problem. I realize this only gets you vertical alignment, but I think it's worth a shot. Good luck.


#4
Ron,

Thanks. Lewmar was very responsive, but unfortunately they gave me the wrong information. Since the rigid boom vang restricts the hatch, it's difficult to get a good view and my picture was not clear. Under better light I was able to see the plastic clips and pop them off.

After a few minute soak in PB Blaser, I had the lid off and was able to clean the gasket, hopefully fixing the leak. If not, I will replace the gasket.

Here is the type of hinge on my hatch:
#5
Main Message Board / Lewmar low profile hinge removal
January 02, 2024, 08:03:44 AM
I want to replace the seal on my Lewmar low profile hatch. I removed the covers on the hinge pins and I understand each aluminum pin should slide to the center to release the hinge, but there's a bit of plastic in the center that keeps this from happening. I don't see how I can open the plastic. What am I missing?

Thanks in advance for you assistance.
#6
My ST4000+ appeared to be inoperable when I purchased my boat in 2021 as it only displayed "No Data." I was so eager to get it working as I had a 12 hour sail/motor to my home port that I actually purchased a replacement on Ebay. It had the exact same error. After some time, I discovered that it would function properly if disconnected from the SeaTalk network. Without that connection I could not follow a route or hold to the wind, but at least I could steer to a heading. Of course, 2 hours into the sail, the autohelm belt broke and we had to manually steer anyway.

I did end up replacing the LCD on the ST4000+, but it's been functioning fine and I resold my backup on Ebay. Turns out my problem was a shorted GPS wire so the SeaTalk network was not getting GPS data.

Before you make any decision, isolate the ST4000+ and let me know what the display says. I have spend hours debugging my issues and I may be able to help.
#7
I have an Raymarine C70 chart plotter with integrated ST60 instruments and a ST4000+ autohelm. I've only had the boat for a couple of years, but I find the "wind" mode very helpful when sailing singlehanded as it makes it easy to keep the boat pointed into the wind while raising the main.

When I purchased the boat, the chart plotter and GPS were not functional, so I had to disconnect the autohelm as I was getting "no data" errors and I wanted the autohelm working for the 12 hour trip to my marina.  All I could do was put the boat on heading and hit the auto button to stay on course.

Once I got everything working, I've probably used goto waypoint once or twice and goto cursor a few times, so I don't really make use of any routes. And as Stu pointed out, you have to Ok the changes anyway, so it's not really much a help. But I do love the wind function. It keeps me from yelling at someone for not keeping the boat pointed into the wind.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: New Catalina Owner
August 16, 2023, 11:30:20 AM
100% agree. I was told during my pre-purchase survey that the shaft was worn and the wrong size cutlass bearing had been installed. I received a reduction for replacing the shaft, but after it was hauled out and the shaft cut, it was clear that the shaft was not worn. I believe the bad engine mounts made it difficult/impossible to align the shaft, so the bearing was worn very quickly.

The good news is that I ended up with a new SS shaft, but still experienced considerable vibration until I replaced the mounts.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: New Catalina Owner
August 15, 2023, 06:16:44 PM
Yes, take a look here: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10963.0.html

I had a bit of difficulty disassembling the mounts, but a little acetone overnight solved that issue. If I had to do it again, I would use cyanoacrylate (super glue) to "pre-assemble" the hardware for the port rear mount as you can only get one hand in there. I ended up taping the washer and bolt together. That one mount took about 75% of the total time.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: New Catalina Owner
August 09, 2023, 04:18:17 PM
Robert,

Welcome!

I had a similar issue earlier this year: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11640.msg94161.html#msg94161

It sure looks like you need new mounts. I put K50 mounts in front and K75 in the rear. Once I got the adjusted (using a dynamic process) the difference was dramatic.

See this thread also: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10963.15.html

It's possible to do this without lifting the engine and if you are careful, you won't change the existing alignment.
#11
I installed the new mounts yesterday and they are a dramatic improvement.

Only the rear port mount was much of a challenge. When reassembling the rear mounts, there was not enough space to add the adjustment nut, lock nut a washer individually. On the starboard side I could use both hands to install them together but on the port side I ended up taping them together since I could not hold them. I had to do it again, I might try superglue.

To maintain the alignment, I made a fixture gauge from a coupling nut and bolt as I found it very difficult to get a good measurement with calipers. I also made a stubby 15/16 wrench and an open box wrench, both of which proved to be invaluable.

When doing the front mounts, the engine did not appear to move at all, but the rear mount required some adjustment to get my gauge to fit.

In slow motion I can still see a little movement at 2500 RPM, so when I have an assistant available I may try and make some additional adjustments, but overall it's a great improvement.

Thanks again for all the help.
#12
Quote from: Noah on May 01, 2023, 05:54:45 PM
Whoa! I thought you said the nut was spinning?!?!   :shock: Ok, never mind... :abd: crisis averted. :clap

Noah, I should have been more clear. On the K75s the nut would spin so I had to hold it with vice grips and I needed a fair amount of solvent to break down the thread locker, but once I got the bolt out it was clear that the nut would stay attached.

Even though the K100's appeared to be the same design, the nut did not spin. I was able to clamp the mount in a vice and use a breaker bar to remove the bolt.

Looks like I need to pick up some thread locker and nail polish!
#13
Ok, it turns out the nut is captive. After a few drops of acetone on the bottom of the bolt, I was able to disassemble the mount. You can see that the threads go all the way through the mount. I'm confident that once I clean the threads, I'll be able to reassemble it without any difficulty.

Thanks for all the help!
#14
I called Vetus and they confirmed that there was a design change about 4 years ago.

WBev, were you able to reassemble the engine isolators using the flat nut pictured above?

I assume if I get my fingers under that that might be possible.
#15
Main Message Board / Re: engine mounts one more time
April 28, 2023, 05:30:19 PM
Yes, this is my concern. I read about this approach here: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/motor-mounts.175915/#post-1257331

I will call Vetus on Monday.

I will ask if it's possible to put 2 (or 3) small self-taping screws in the plate nut to hold in place for disassembly and reassembly.