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Messages - Gint

#1
I am also dreading cutting a bigger hole in my boat, but the original screens where mounted externally and they stick right into your neck and back when you're resting against the cabin. Thanks for the advice, I have a few days to think about it... to cut or not to cut. I'll keep you posted on the outcome. 
#2
Quote from: waughoo on September 17, 2022, 09:49:15 AM
That bit is going to make a rather messy hole.  I would recommend a cut off wheel or even a jig saw.  You have a lot of material to get rid of.

Ah, good idea! I have a small grinder on the boat. Perfect!
#3
Hi Guys and Girls,

I just ordered new Signet (SL250) displays to replace my old broken displays. The new ones come with a "soap dish" inlay so that the displays sit flush with the cabin trunk. I need to cut the old small circular hole (used for just the wires) into a large square hole for the soap dish. I was thinking about taping the section and using my Dremel with the bit shown below. Is this the best approach? ( Image link: https://ibb.co/7JztfXK )

#4
So I'm assuming this foam we are sleeping on in the aft cabin is over 30 years old now. There is a big dip in the center that my wife and I uncomfortably sleep in, unless we grip the sides of the mattress and hold ourselves to each side. This doesn't last too long and we find ourselves pressed face to face throughout the night in this grand canyon which is our bed. The covers are totally fine so I just need to cut new foam. I could just buy new ones from Catalina Direct, but I don't really want too. I prefer to do things the hard way, it (always) seem. Does anyone have a recommendation for the type of foam I can use, possibly the original grade. We like it firm.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Hardware Identification
March 01, 2022, 02:17:58 PM
Hahaa, yes. The wife loves them. They are LED plastic bulb globe lights that run around the whole boat for evening drinks in the cockpit. Fully waterproof with fuse. Shore power only.

Quote from: Noah on March 01, 2022, 02:07:38 PM
Ok, you got me curious... in one of your photos in your collection it looks like two round Christmas lightbulbs with a black cord ziptied to your stern pulpit stanchion??? I am I nuts?
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Hardware Identification
March 01, 2022, 09:06:39 AM
Thanks for the lead!

Quote from: KWKloeber on March 01, 2022, 08:20:07 AM
Is it "just" the sheave that's damaged, nothing else on the block

The block looks like it has a nylon or Delrin sheave - probably there's a better choice and a stronger body of the block available.

IIWMSheave I'd call Garhauer who is most familiar with the loads on the backstay and could set you up with the lower block from its TR-W backstay adjuster.
It *should* run about $50 (I'm guessing because the whole adjuster assembly is $170.)  Talk to Kelly if she's still there.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Hardware Identification
March 01, 2022, 09:01:29 AM
Here are all the photos of the system:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/N9misJiU6WFzcSBe9
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Hardware Identification
February 28, 2022, 10:12:09 PM
I can get a photo tomorrow but yes, the adjuster is starboard side of the split, connecting to the stern chainplate.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Hardware Identification
February 28, 2022, 09:08:59 PM
It has a hydraulic back stay adjuster. I don't think this hardware is strong enough as there is a crack in it. That's why I need to replace. I will use whatever is recommended as a replacement.
#11
Main Message Board / Hardware Identification
February 28, 2022, 02:13:19 PM
Hi all, I need to replace a piece of hardware. It's the wheel that the backstay split cable runs through. I'm not sure how to find it online
because I'm entering the incorrect name. I need to order a new one. It's connected to the backstay with a number 10 T-bar and shackle.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fhpgHo3g6gYsTeAK6
#12
Quote from: Stu Jackson on December 28, 2021, 03:15:14 PM
Quote from: Gint on December 28, 2021, 08:05:14 AM


Hi Ron, I'm fairly new here and do not know how to find the Mainsheet article you are referring too. Could you assist with a link?

Gint, Ron repeatedly tells us that he wrote it but never provides links.  First, he HAS written it!  He's our resident guru on C34 systems (except electrical - he'll be the first to tell you that!)  :D  He will never give you a link, dunno why.

So, here's how to find whatever he's telling you to go find:  THE KNOWLEDGEBASE.

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3362.0.html

Download the Excel spreadsheet.  On the bottom are three tabs:  Introduction, All Articles, FYI-Categories.  Click on All Articles.  Then, use ctrl F (find) and enter a subject, which will usually get you a number of hits and the links are in the G column, right there for you.

Awesome! Thank you so much Stu, I appreciate you. I got loads of projects to keep me busy and this forum is gold. Thanks to you all :)
#13
Quote from: Ron Hill on October 12, 2020, 01:44:26 PM
Noah : Look at my Mainsheet tech note article on replacing the exhaust hose w/pictures.
I'd leave the present riser in place and then replace when it starts to leak.  The main reason for riser replacement is because the weld at the raw water nipple starts to leak.  I finally figured that out and corrected it by removing/replacing the stuff wire reinforced hose with nylon reinforced hose (from the anti syphon valve to the nipple).

A few thoughts

Hi Ron, I'm fairly new here and do not know how to find the Mainsheet article you are referring too. Could you assist with a link?
#14
Quote from: Jim Hardesty on December 09, 2021, 05:22:49 AM
Was the problem termites or roaches? 
Jim

Hey Jim, it was definitely dry wood termites. The heat yesterday killed about 90% of them. No droppings at all, even when checking at 11:30 last night. But this morning I found a small number of droppings. It seems like a few survived in the trim under the window (above the counter in front of the nav station) where the heat must not have penetrated the wood enough. I'm roasting them as we speak.



#15
Thanks for all the feedback everyone. This is what happened. I went to home depo and grabbed a bottle of spay on insecticide for termites called "Terminate" by Spectrum. I sprayed it into a container and waited a few minutes for the foam to turn to liquid - it was not a dry foam. I took a paintbrush and painted the wood. It is water based so did not stain or affect the color of the teak.



By morning the pellet production (termite poop) had decreased by roughly half. I repeated, but they still kept coming. I called Lloyd Pest control and they said I needed to drill into the wood every few inches and apply it that way. NO WAYS - So, I decided to try the heat treatment. 

In comes our trusty winter heater:



I expect to get some negative feedback here about fire and danger as we progress. Yes, I had the fire extinguisher ready and I sat watching it the entire time. I also checked the flash point for fabrics and wool and I had a thermometer which I used to check the temp every 15-20 min. Please note that I have a very concentrated problem area and because I live on the boat, I saw the problem in hours of it starting. Its been a little more than 24 hours since it begun.

I setup the heater in the problem area and then covered all the areas hot air could escape with a towel and some items in the boat, making 100% sure I didn't cover the back or the front of the heater with the towel. I let this hot box sit for 1.5 hours at a temp of 180-ish degrees Fahrenheit. To kill the termites and eggs, the internal temp of the wood needs to be at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit at a minimum of 35 min. This is what it looked like:









Its been about an two hours later now and the dropping have ceased altogether. I'll keep and eye on them and if they pop up anywhere else, they will be roasted!

This was just my solution and I wanted to share it, so I'm not recommending anyone use it. It can very easily turn into a fire hazard if you are not carful. I just like to fix all issues myself, where possible, so if I've sailed to a far land and there are no exterminators, mechanics or electricians I have a better chance at getting the wind back in my sails by myself.