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Messages - Wurlitzer1614

Pages: [1] 2
Main Message Board / Re: ACR Wiring Revisited (again)
« on: August 04, 2022, 04:09:15 PM »
The 6AWG was already there from a PO. Iíll add 4AWG to the list of future upgrades. From what Iíve read,  the OE alternator (8EM2017KA) has its own regulator built in.

Main Message Board / Re: ACR Wiring Revisited (again)
« on: August 04, 2022, 10:02:04 AM »
Ron, the alternator output currently goes directly to the start battery via a 6AWG wire.

Main Message Board / Re: ACR Wiring Revisited (again)
« on: August 03, 2022, 05:07:58 PM »
Ron, if my boat had ever had an ammeter, itís long gone!

Main Message Board / Re: ACR Wiring Revisited (again)
« on: August 03, 2022, 12:47:02 PM »

I re-read the harness page on the C30 site and it makes sense now. I pulled the panel last night and took a good look at how everything is wired. Thankfully, the most critical hazards were already corrected by previous owners. The original wire harness connectors have been replaced by terminal strips and are no longer in service. There is definitely still room for improvement and I will work my way through the list of recommended wiring changes. My wiring matches the diagram here, except I have an extra wire on the key switch 'I' terminal for the fuel pump.

The yellow wire pictured is a jumper from the AO to alternator sense.

I hadn't considered what would happen if my house bank ended up being completely run down. It's true that I would lose fuel pump, glow, starting solenoid, etc.

Assuming the panel feed is left on the start battery and the AO goes to the house battery, will there be issues with the alternator excite or AC output to the tach? Or are those all electrically isolated within the alternator? If those are isolated, then maybe this is a non-issue. I'd see my starting battery voltage (when not combined) rather than monitoring the alternator, but maybe that's okay with me.

Thanks again to all of you for walking through this with me.

Main Message Board / Re: ACR Wiring Revisited (again)
« on: July 29, 2022, 09:45:00 AM »
Stu - You are correct- I do have a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. Everything else in the M25XP manual diagram matches what I have except I don't have the orange-red wire between the alternator and starter. Were you able to get the full images to load? If not, I will try posting them again.

KWKloeber - Is the purpose of adding the negative wire to the alternator to add redundancy in case the negative wire to the engine comes loose? The way I envision the ACR working is this: Everything except the starter is powered by the house bank. Charging sources charge the house bank. When the start button is pressed, the Start Isolation (connected to the yellow/red wire) momentarily removes the path between the house bank and start battery so 100% of the starting effort comes from the starting battery. If I leave the smaller red wire on the main starter post (B post?), the cockpit voltmeter would be reading the voltage from the starting battery rather than the alternator/house battery while the batteries are not being combined by the ACR.

Regardless of where that red #5 wire ends up connecting to, I will definitely fuse it!

Main Message Board / ACR Wiring Revisited (again)
« on: July 28, 2022, 09:49:01 AM »
After reading through an incredible amount of information and wiring diagrams here, I was feeling fairly confident adding an ACR and fuses (we had neither). The one thing that has me stumped is the smaller red wire on the starter (+) post that feeds the cockpit engine panel. I havenít seen this one mentioned before. Should this wire get moved over to the alternator post so it is being fed from the house battery instead of the start battery? Thanks!

Main Message Board / Garhauer 10% Off Sale
« on: July 22, 2022, 09:32:29 AM »
I saw this while I was browsing their website. Iím sure most of us have at least one piece of hardware thatís overdue for replacement!

Main Message Board / Re: B&G Vulcan 7 installation - Mk I
« on: June 23, 2022, 06:38:04 AM »
Thanks for the positive comments, everyone!

Noah- When the knobs are loosened slightly, they flip clear of the white Starboard part that the Vulcan is attached to. At that point, it can be lifted off the four pins and stored securely off the boat. No tools required and no loose parts.

Phil- I designed the whole thing myself. The two 7ga SS sheet metal brackets were made by one of the sheet metal vendors we use where I work. They cost me $50 each. I programmed all of the Starboard parts to run on our CNC routers. Every other part was repurposed from stock items we buy or have made by the thousands so this entire project was relatively inexpensive in the end. 

Main Message Board / Re: B&G Vulcan 7 installation - Mk I
« on: June 22, 2022, 09:27:18 AM »
Neither my wife nor I are tall so 27 degrees ended up being the angle that works for us. I finished the installation of ours on Saturday.

If anyone is interested, Iíd be happy to share the CAD files.

Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Lip Seal Substitute?
« on: May 31, 2022, 08:33:09 AM »
Thanks, everyone. Sorry about the delayed response. The Jabsco seals appear to be entirely rubber. Iíll be sending them back. I ended up ordering the ďofficialĒ 11691 repair kit and using that to rebuild the pump late last week. I also flattened the inside of the cover plate and replaced the intake hose while I was at it. I highly recommend finding an arbor press for seal removal/insertion. It took only a few minutes to replace the seals and carbon bushing. The pump seems to be working great now.

Main Message Board / Oberdorfer Lip Seal Substitute?
« on: May 22, 2022, 06:04:15 AM »
While doing a quick engine test run last weekend before we launched for the season, I noticed a lot of water leaking between the shaft and carbon bushing. After pulling the impeller, I saw what looked to me like excessive play in the bushing. Needless to say, I ordered a new bushing and the obligatory gaskets and lip seals. When the package arrived yesterday, I was surprised that the ďequivalentĒ lip seal parts I received didnít have a brass housing. Does anyone have experience with using Jabsco 92700-0060 as lip seals? Iím worried that, without a brass to brass press fit, the seals will work themselves loose. This was my parts source:


Main Message Board / Re: Stubborn Waterline Stains
« on: May 17, 2022, 11:40:33 AM »
Itís time for an update! I ended up using 3M Rubbing Compound and a lot of elbow grease to get rid of the staining/oxidation. After that, I buffed with 3M Cleaner and Wax and then a once-over with Collinite wax.

Main Message Board / Re: Stubborn Waterline Stains
« on: May 10, 2022, 07:01:13 PM »
KWKloeber, I tried Collinite 920 tonight and it was slightly less effective than the 3M Cleaner and Wax. That surprised me because Collinite claims to be for ďmoderateĒ oxidation and the 3M for ďlightĒ oxidation. Anyway, Iím ready to try a more aggressive cleaner compound.

Main Message Board / Re: Stubborn Waterline Stains
« on: May 07, 2022, 07:24:40 PM »
Well, the FSR didnít make any noticeable difference, even with 20 minutes of soaking and hard scrubbing. With the chemical options not having any effect, I tried 3M Cleaner & Wax. With the 3M and a ton of hand polishing, I was able to remove a few inches of the staining, but it took a LOT of elbow grease.

Given this information, is my best course of action to go with a more abrasive product? If so, which one? Thanks!

Main Message Board / Re: Stubborn Waterline Stains
« on: May 01, 2022, 03:54:55 PM »
Thank you, everyone! Iíll pick up some FSR this week. Once the stains are gone, the hull will definitely be receiving a much-needed polish.

Ron, raising the bottom paint is a good idea. If I run out of patience cleaning the white stripe, I may just do that.

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