Messages

I'm in the process of getting a new genoa from Precision Sails in Victoria BC. So far I'm very pleased with them. From the research I've done, most people seem to be pretty happy with the product.

That was on my list of things to do.  Uhhh, maybe not! I have the same "problem" here in FL. Boat is in the water all year, so no sending it in for repair

Yeah guys, agree that the rigid vang is nice, but it's better than triple the price of a traditional setup. I have to be judicious about where the boat bucks are going this year as I'd like to get a new set of sails. Additionally, autopilot is dead, fridge is dead, chartplotter only works when it feels like it.... 

Hey all, I'm getting rid of the janky mainsail furler from a PO and going back to the standard main attachment. I currently don't have a vang, and want to put one together myself. I'd like to run the control back to the cockpit. Looking at this picture of the "out of the box" vang from CD, would I just need the 2 fiddle blocks (1 with becket), but not the cam as pictured? Then I'd run it to a block at the mast base, through an organizer and aft to the cockpit. Does this sound like the right idea? Additionally, any estimates on the length of line it would take? Not sure how to measure the multiple trips through the fiddle blocks before going aft to the rope clutches. Thanks!

I don't know, I've read a bunch online from people questioning the safety aspect of the fill valves. I guess it sketches me out a little 

I still have the CNG setup as well. When I bought the boat in Michigan, there was a hardware store in Grosse Pointe where you could exchange tanks. Now, in Jacksonville, FL I'm out of luck. I've asked around and checked everywhere and the only option is to buy the adaptor on eBay and fill it myself at a gas station. I'll probably just bite the bullet and do the propane conversion, as from what I've heard CNG really hurts resale value.

Thanks Ken! That will save me a lot of work. I've "cleaned up" my harness and cluster wiring and everything works fine, but it was all re-done in non-marine wire ages ago by a previous owner. This will be a good project for me to tackle this winter as I'd like everything to be done right. I'll be sure to reach out if any questions come up.

Kirk

If you are comfortable manufacturing a harness from scratch, when that time comes I can provide a list of everything you need and some sources. 

-kk

Ken, I'd be interested in that list when you get a chance. M25XP, Compass Marine Alternator/Balmar External regulator.
Thanks!

Ken, I've been running the Top Cog 15405

Keel : From what I've seen, the factory usually installed a 160F thermostat in the engine. However, a PO could have changed it to a 180F !?!  The temp is stamped on the thermostat !!

On your belt, make sure that the inside of the pulleys are free of oil/grease.  Just take a rag with some lacquer thinner and wipe the inside of the pulleys to clean them.  When you tighten the belt just make sure that you can't turn the belt (with you fingers) no more than 180 degrees.

The belt should should have notches on the top side for heat transfer; you don't want a smooth toped belt!

a few thoughts

Ron, what type of belt are you using that has the notches on top? I was buying Dayco Top Cog belts, but for the last 2 years they are smooth belts. I've ordered them from O'Reilly Auto parts and Summit Racing. The pics on the websites still show the notched belt, but it isn't what arrives in the package. Do you recommend any other brands?

Starting our 4th summer down here in FL and was thinking of getting an electric dehumidifier for the hot and humid summer months. I've been using 4 of those small Damprid buckets and running fans/ ventilating, which works "okay", but the boat still starts to smell a bit in summer and I do get a little mildew on the ceiling. Not to mention, dumping and replacing the Damprid crystals almost weekly is getting old and expensive. The boat lives at the dock and there isn't much of a breeze there to ventilate. I'm aware of the controversial aspect of leaving a seacock open, but mine are well maintained and I have proper hose and clamps on all my thru-hulls, so I'm fairly comfortable with using the galley sink to drain the dehumidifier. Does anyone run a similar setup, and if so, what's your experience with the effectiveness of it, and what type of unit do you have? Additionally, the boat is always on shore power and I pay a flat rate, so no concerns of the cost of the electricity. Thoughts?

Cool, thanks for the input. I certainly don't need to create any more work for myself!

Hey all, I'm in the process of re-oiling the interior teak. I'm using the Watco product and it looks great so far. I've seen Minwax Polycrylic mentioned here a few times as an overcoat to finish the job. What's the purpose of putting it on? Does it add a layer of protection and prolong the life of the teak oil? Does it add a nice gloss? Are there any negatives? I picked up a can at Ace, but haven't opened it yet. Just wanted to see what other opinions are of the stuff. Thanks!

Ron, thanks for the reply. I have been using your technique of vice grips and rubber tubing. I placed them on the fuel line between the secondary fuel filter and the injection pump before removing the injectors, and they haven't moved.

[1) I usually "shut off the fuel" by using needle nose vice grips with tubing pump. on the tips and "clamp" off the hose.It's easier than emptying theport side lazarette to get to thetank shut off]

I removed the fuel injectors yesterday and took them to a shop for a rebuild. Followed the instructions quoted below from the Aug 2002 TechNotes...

1) I usually "shut off the fuel" by
using needle nose vice grips with tubing pump.
on the tips and "clamp" off the hose.
It's easier than emptying the
port side lazarette to get to the
tank shut off

I went back to the boat today and there was a gallon+ of diesel in the "pan" under the engine. I can't for the life of me figure out how that much fuel leaked out of the injection pump (fuel lines are removed). I had absorbant shop towels on top of the 3 nipples to keep it clean and it was soaked with fuel today when I got to the boat. Where else or HOW did that much fuel escape???! 
Additional note: I didn't shut off fuel at the tank, as I couldn't see any way it could gravity feed all the way to the injectors, plus I did the "hemostat" trick on the fuel line, which usually works great for me when I change the filters.  M25 XP