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Messages - Dwainideus

#1
Amazon sells radiator pressure testers which enable you to pressurize the cooling system with the engine off.  If there is a leak you should be able to find it.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Refinishing handrails
February 19, 2022, 11:42:21 AM
Quote from: waughoo on February 19, 2022, 09:17:22 AM
Pretty clever solution!  Only thing I might add is a few drops of blue locktite on the captive T nut JUST to be sure the screw doesnt move on you.

"T" nuts have spikes that embed/drive themself into the wood, don't think they would ever turn.  You just have to recess the teak about 1/8" or so to get the nuts flush with the bottom of the rail.
#4
Main Message Board / External propane locker
February 19, 2022, 08:10:33 AM
A piece of 4" PVC pipe with a PVC end cap on one end, and a rubber cap on the other makes a pretty good storage container for small disposable type propane bottles.  I drilled a hole in the bottom cap to release any propane that might be released from the bottle.
#5
Main Message Board / Refinishing handrails
February 19, 2022, 07:50:47 AM
Instead of refinishing the teak handrails on the boat, and having to spend all the time taping and prepping, I thought there might be a better way.  By installing a "T" nut on underside of the rail which locks the screw in place, you create an assembly where the screw won't turn or push up, thereby taking away the necessity of having someone backup the screw when reinstalling.  I plugged the holes, sanded each plug flush, and varnished the rails while off the boat.  Solo re-installation on the boat was a breeze, wrapped each protruding screw with butyl tape, slid in place, installed the nuts and washers, and tightened.  No leaks!  And if I ever have to remove the rails, no drilling and removal of the teak plugs, just remove the nuts/washers on the inside of the boat and lift off.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: steps in the Boat
February 18, 2022, 07:57:34 PM
I found the non skid tape on Amazon:  Safe Way Traction 1"x60' clear rubberized anti slip non skid safety tape 3530-1.  And you're correct, in these photos of the completed stairs, the anti skid isn't installed, my foul up...but it is pretty transparent.  If you look carefully at the cross sectional view, you can see the tape on the left.  Not sure about the epoxy, I chose the filler as I figured the varnish wouldn't have an issue with adherence.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: steps in the Boat
February 18, 2022, 01:16:05 PM
more pictures
#8
Main Message Board / Re: steps in the Boat
February 18, 2022, 01:07:38 PM
I ripped teak strips, just wide and deep enough to fit into each groove in the tread, allowing for about 1/16" on each side and above the strip.  I then pin nailed/glued each strip into place.  The reasoning behind the application of the strips is that this would allow for more surface area for the wood filler to adhere to which I later applied.  It would also minimize the thickness of the filler which should reduce the tendency for cracking.  The entire tread was taped off, except the grooves with blue painters tape.  Famowood Wood Filler was applied with a putty knife, making sure it was worked deeply into each groove.  After the filler cured, the painter's tape was removed, leaving the putty proud, which I sanded flush using 220 grit sandpaper.  I then applied three coats of MinWax spar urethane varnish.  After the varnish was cured, 1" wide clear rubberized anti skid tape was applied on each side of the grooves.  So far, seems to have turned out well, it's been over a year, no cracking or peeling.  And the anti-skid is working as advertised, no slips or falls.  In addition, the filler matches the flooring in the boat.  Photo attached showing cross section of a groove with teak strip installed, and filler applied.  The strip creates a U shaped channel.
#9
If you have a roach problem, boric acid is the answer.  You should be able to purchase it in most pharmacies.  Dust the area with it, the roaches will walk through it, get it on their feet, lick it off, and the rest is history.  I grew up on the Texas Coast and learned about this at an early age...
#10
Roach droppings
#11
Two years ago, I installed a 16K BTU unit under the VBerth, intake air from two grills on the vertical cabin wall directly behind the a/c at the rear of the VBerth.  Installed a Mermaid condensator to remove the condensation from the drip pan which keeps the bilge dry.  So far no odors, I think keeping that area dry is the key...
#12
Main Message Board / Re: Rear seal oil leak
July 08, 2021, 05:23:42 PM
First of all, thanks to all for the input.  Second of all, I must admit to being a real dufus as it didn't turn out to be a "real" oil leak after all.

After spending many hours of wiping and looking for the source of the fluid that was pooling in the forward sloping area below the engine, I decided there has to be a better way.  I purchased a coolant tester and pressurized the cooling system with the engine off.  Didn't notice any fluid dripping until I started applying pressure to the coolant hoses.  When I moved the hose running from the coolant tank to the thermostat housing, I noticed a couple of drips of coolant followed by a drop in pressure on the coolant tester gauge.  Closer examination revealed that the clamp holding the hose to the thermostat housing was stripped and unable to be tightened securely enough.  When the engine reached operation temperature, the coolant system would pressurize, forcing the coolant from this hose juncture.   It would run down/underneath the coolant manifold of the backward sloping engine, into/around the bell housing, dripping down to the floor and then running forward, pooling under/in the front of the engine.

While I was chasing the above, I noticed the raw water pump appeared to be leaking a small amount of oil and water.  These two fluids dripped directly down in the front of the engine, combining with the coolant.  The three fluid combination was so similar to fresh engine oil that I was convinced it was.

Changed out the pump and ran the engine about two hours and no drips!

Sometimes the obvious isn't, hopefully my efforts/stupidity will keep someone else from going down this same path...
#13
Main Message Board / Re: Rear seal oil leak
June 14, 2021, 06:32:09 AM
Thanks to all for the input!
After much prodding and poking, I think it might be more of a coolant leak than an oil leak, or a combination of both.  I had just changed the oil, so it's really clean, making it difficult to differentiate from coolant. 
Yesterday I ran the engine at length trying to locate where the liquid is coming from.  Still appears to be dripping from the bell housing on the port side of the engine.  Can't see all the coolant hose connections to see if one of them might be leaking.
Anyone had a similar experience?
Thanks!
#14
Main Message Board / Rear seal oil leak
May 31, 2021, 10:44:26 AM
I have an oil leak which appears to be coming from the rear of the engine (M-25XP).  It only shows after running the engine, and appears as a steady drip from the area on the back of the engine in the vicinity of the starter.  I assume this is probably a lip seal issue?  Question:  can the seal be replaced without removing the engine? 
I've searched the message board, tech wiki, and tech notes...just want to make sure...
1990 Catalina 34 1.5
#15
Have you found a Bimini frame?