Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - ChrisOB

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
1
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder blisters
« on: December 09, 2019, 08:48:10 PM »
The rust is coming from a crack in the layup I discovered at the lower part of the rudder post, where the rudder forms a right angle and extends forward.  I hit a big partially submerged log a few years ago, that may have been what caused the crack.   I ground the crack out a bit and a little more water is coming out.  I also cut the old aluminum emergency tiller cap off and can see some wet gunk down in the bottom.  I guess I should drill some more holes closer to the shaft for a core sample there.  Also, when water gets on the tiller cap, the through bolt is not waterproof, if that water gets down the shaft where is it supposed to go?  I’m not positive what the prognosis is at the moment or what to focus on next.  I could potentially remove all my below deck AP stuff and have them move to to a spot where I can fully drop the rudder, but not sure what that is gaining me at the moment.  Thanks for all your input.

2
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder blisters
« on: December 04, 2019, 08:48:41 PM »
Lazy bone:

Re: rust stain

Do you feel the rust stain is an indicator of a compromised rudder?
Compromised shaft to rudder joint?

I drilled 3 small inspection holes in the lower part of the rudder and the foam was bone dry.

If the blisters are fluff compared to the rust can you elaborate what is wrong and how to fix?

I was personally more concerned with the blisters than the rust drips.

Thanks! 

3
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder blisters
« on: December 03, 2019, 11:03:12 PM »
Ok

#2- think anyone has done this without dropping rudder? My emergency tiller cap is stuck on there, and Iíd have to remove quadrant and Edson bronze tiller for below deck autopilot.  And Iíd also have to bring the travel lift over and hang in the slings to do this as I cannot dig a hole here.  I also donít want to epoxy my rudder into place....  I believe Ron was a big believer in the plastic/Mylar sheets slid down below the emergency tiller cap to fill the gap.  Heard of anyone else doing that successfully?  I donít want to go jamming things down there that I canít get out either...

4
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder blisters
« on: December 03, 2019, 09:19:37 PM »
I had a neighbor in the yard take a look and he thought the blisters were in the paint and the fairing and the white Iím seeing is Gelcoat on the rudder.  Said to sand and epoxy with fairing thickener (easy to sand compared to silicia etc).  So thatís good, I guess.  Any thoughts on the play in the rudder bushing? Any new techniques besides the 2 I have found (plastic sheets, vs drop rudder, wax shaft, fill with epoxy)?

5
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder blisters
« on: December 03, 2019, 07:38:37 PM »
To make the question more specific, does anyone know what the hard white material I was able to get down to with my knife is? It looks clean and hard, is it possible the blisters were just in the paint and barrier coat? Iím having trouble finding the layup of the rudder, I assume there is foam behind this hard white layer.

6
Main Message Board / Rudder blisters
« on: December 03, 2019, 04:12:00 PM »
This was the first year in my 7 year ownership where the boat stayed in the water for more than 8 months (it was just hauled after 16 months since last haul).  I was wet sanding the bottom and found maybe 50 blisters on the rudder, most are the size of a pencil eraser.  If I pick at them I get down to a hard white material below layers of paint and gray (barrier coat?).  I also have had the rusty rudder stain from the post for a while.  I know donít see any recent posts on the topic so thought Iíd ask advice.  It sounds like Catalina does not do the recast anymore, so I will have to fix.  I also have some play in the rudder bushing.  I saw the 2 fixes as sliding plastic sheets down there or dropping rudder and waxing and filling with epoxy.  I may not be able to drop rudder at this yard. 
Thanks

7
Main Message Board / Re: below deck autopilot
« on: April 26, 2019, 10:40:35 PM »
Hi- I think Noah and I and one other are the only ones to tackle the below deck.  Itís a huge job, I will not sugar coat it.  For me it was worth it as the boat performs very well in hard weather 10 foot seas with 25knts. I fiberglassed a large shelf on the port side behind the fuel tank.  The tiller arm for the AP can be at whatever angle you want so long as itís in a flat plane. Mine is probably 30 degrees.  Drilling the rudder post for the tiller arm is not for the faint of heart. They do not advise using the quadrant.  Itís a big $ project.  Are you plannng multi hundred mile passages?

8
Main Message Board / Engine mount lag bolts
« on: April 26, 2019, 10:00:34 PM »
I had saw the front engine mounts wobbling against the fiberglass the other day.  I torqued down the bolts a bit, but they didnít bite that well.  Checked today after a short motor sail and one of the bolts had jumped out into the space below the oil pan.  Iím a little surprised that these mounts arenít through Bolted or bolted into some kind of sleeeve.  Iíve seen some people taking about shoving toothpicks in the hole but that sounds pretty iffy to me.  Is this an epoxy drill and fill situation? Iím in the Bahamas at the moment so I donít mind a quick fix for the time being but Iíd prefer to just do it correctly for another 10 years

9
Hi- what condition are they in? And the color/pattern? Thank you for offering.

10
Main Message Board / Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« on: April 18, 2018, 08:35:09 PM »
Has anyone tried this repair that has a bow water tank?  I can barely get my hand to the underside.  We take a decent amount of green water over the bow so for now I have drilled a limber hole in the base of the Vee berth to drain to the bilge. Any advice would be great.

11
Main Message Board / Re: Alternator Upgrade
« on: April 18, 2018, 08:24:19 PM »
Also, hopefully I am just keeping the batteries pretty full if I never see more than 30 amps.  Brand new charger and brand new 2 gauge wires.  I replaced my alternator with a new 55 amp and I am happy, still wouldnít over tax my M25 for electric.  Never seen the batteries below 12.3.

12
Main Message Board / Re: Alternator Upgrade
« on: April 18, 2018, 08:16:05 PM »
I find the smart gauge works well if I am pumping 15 amps of solar, but if Iím only getting 9 on a cloudy day, it will never increase.  Similarly on those days I will go to sleep, it wil say 75% and Iíll wake up at 74%.  Running fridge and cpap machine.  It seems to take a while to figure out the SOC If the charging amps arenít really high.  I still like to have it, and check it all the time.

13
Main Message Board / Re: New York to Bahamas
« on: April 18, 2018, 08:10:49 PM »
Yes 5/16Ē sorry.  Iím not a real member as I never joined the association and paid dues but figured Iíd share my trip with the group.  Side note, Garhauer was very easy to work with on extending the davits Ana he also made a special mount for the outboard crane to attach it to one of the davits legs.  Anchored here in Kennedy space center and there is a C34 with a nice big arch on the back.  I thought about that but couldnít get the dimensions right.  His looks good.

14
Main Message Board / Re: New York to Bahamas
« on: April 18, 2018, 08:41:55 AM »
All 4 batteries fit in the battery box in front of the sink.  I do not have them in individual boxes, I guess thatís not ABYC.  I do have them strapped down.

15
Main Message Board / Re: New York to Bahamas
« on: April 18, 2018, 08:21:27 AM »
130í of 5/8Ē chain paired with Rocna 15kg.  Installed an extended roller to store anchor.  In Bahamas you donít need more than 80í of chain though.  We anchored for 3 months straight, couple marina stops in between.  Had a couple 40 knot squalls no problem with anchor.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4