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I hate to be a naysayer but...wasn't there a hole already drilled in your shaft for your previous prop? How do you lap fit the taper of the shaft/prop while in the water? Perhaps you should abandon this underwater effort and  do a "short haul" at a boatyard-—taking care of those issues while hanging in the slings?

Krafty— This is what my forward hatch covers looks like the elastic sewn into hem allows it to grip the frame whether open or shut.

My hatch covers are intended to minimize UV crazing to hatch lens.

NO! Bad idea. Sunbrella hatch covers have elastic sew into the hems and just stretches around/over the frame. It stay perfectly seated whether hatch is open or closed.

I had mine made at Canvas Services on Canon St. in Shelter Island. They have done all my canvas work for years. Good folks.

Alex- that is the one that I have (and I believe Jon used to use). However, we both had various issues with the sniffer/sensor.
1. I ruined one sensor getting it wet in the bilge. They are not water waterproof nor even water resistant.
2. I moved it to under the sink at floorboard level then had constant false alarms from battery gas fumes. It was ok if I kept the little door open. So I did that for a year or so.
3. Finally, last week. I moved sensor to the middle forward bilge section, just below floorboard level boards. So far no false alarms.
3. I believe Jon's issue was it would alarm when his neighbor ran his smokey diesel. So I believe Jon just quit using his.

Too bad. If your insurance Co. requires thermocouples on all burners then you may be forced to purchase a new stove with that feature, such as a Force 10:

https://youtu.be/j99up8JlOXs?si=XxcOBep1_RQ3Rod6

https://www.westmarine.com/force-10-two-burner-euro-standard-gimbaled-propane-range-1987965.html?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=GGL_PLA_Galley%20%26%20Outdoors_X&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22685590524&gbraid=0AAAAAD_lEeoTFaFtlNPgcNS2Dw77F9-oG&gclid=CjwKCAjw9uPCBhATEiwABHN9Kzvo_qKZ3TU_h0E2FyFHMMRO0uyAUJR0HpdP3cvypM7FjqQdg3winRoCB8AQAvD_BwE

Welcome! I don't know specifically how to address your issue but I suggest you contact Sure Marine in Seattle. They specialize in stove repair parts.

https://www.suremarineservice.com/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21865446407&gbraid=0AAAAADu3qs1FtaNDSSrhdBX6ojyDlh9oo&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsNnCBhDRARIsAEzia4BVGlzjfyN3ngQzQDRiO-qEYGCvYiN3jBtipVxoFz1W8XpnhT4E42YaAilJEALw_wcB

Ed- I drained first by removing pencil zinc. I also took off end caps CAREFULLY "poked" opened/cleared any of the holes that appeared restricted, using a scratch awl.
Pic below is before:

Lime-a-way worked well for me too. Removed the exit hose from my water pump to HX and poured it through the hose into my HX using a funnel. I kept the hose elevated and let it sit for an  hour or so in the HX. Then I hooked hose back up and ran engine.

Krafty—I went with 138W panel made by "Sol-Go" which is the rebranded name of SunPower (post recent bankruptcy). They use Maxeon cells. Bought it through Blue Marine in Seattle. Cost $232 with free shipping.Fisheries Supply in Seattle also sells them, but they are more expensive.

Follow-up. I left the boat for 48hrs. (In the slip) with shore power OFF, solar panel ON  laying on deck forward of the mast and my refrigerator ON. Upon returning to boat batteries were 96% SOC 13.5V. Also, is a photo of how I run the solar panel "extension cord" to inside plug. It sandwiches nicely in the slit between my two hatch washboards, so I can lock the boat. Looks like this system is going to work well for me while at anchor!

My 136W Sol-Go portable solar panel is now installed and working. I opted for an SAE plug outlet and installed an SAE plug on the end of a 20 #10 solar extension cord, with 2 MC4 connectors to the panel. I also use a Victron MPPT 75/15 controller, which is under the Starboard settee next to water tank. All wires routes are permanent and hidden. (Except for my extension cord which gets removed with panel. I can move panel to dodger or my sun awning depending on best sun angle and shading. The goal of this project is to give me a bit more time at anchor before I need to charge with my engine.

Try this:
Marine Direct

https://marinepumpdirect.com/

mpd@marinegate.com

Trans Pacific Distributors
1941 Walters Ct.
Fairfield, Ca. 94533

Ph.707-426-5143

Did you check for a screen on the fuel tank pick-up tube?