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I (and Mainesail) recommend Makrolon AR-2 (a polycarbonate) over any vinyl, including Stratoglas. It offers much better clarity and I think, durability. I use it on my dodger. The two "downsides" are it is more expensive and you cannot roll it up. The front panel of my dodger zips up for ventilation and folds back onto the top of the dodger and is held in place by a standard SS twist lock canvas fastener. Regardless, whether you use vinyl/Stratoglas or polycarbonate, use Sunbrella sun covers over the windows when not sailing to prolong their life.
UPDATE/Edit: just found my old estimate and the material I have is:
60 gauge Lexan MR-10 Polycarbonate window

It depends where your instrument is mounted, but I would try and figure out a way to temporarily attach a piece plywood to use as a hole saw template/guide for hole saw's pilot bit, or you may have problems with your hole saw "walking" and not centering.

Single-handing solves the problem. ; )

Eric— there may be glass under the fairing compound but I never had to grind or dig that far. I have only a had to repair a bit of cracked fairing putty over the past 9 years. The boat only gets hauled every three years for a bottom job here in SoCal. It will be time again this October. I will see how it looks.

  No glass on my 1990 joint. Just faring.

Try a product called Debond Marine Formula Adhesive & Sealant Remover. West Marine carries it. It is expensive but it works. Spray it on and let it sit for 15 min. or so. It should help release the hatch's bond to the deck.

  It looks pretty cosmetic to me so I would NOT recommend 3M 5200 for this.  You don't need adhesive strength in your case and it is hard to make it smooth and fair. I would just use a good epoxy fairing/filler—-that you can sand smooth and paint. If the crack was "open" and weeping or you were rebedding the keel, then 5200 is a good choice.

The Edson website should have info and probably a video too.

Paulus:
Sorry, I only have one handle. Looks like I already cannibalized the other one to use for something(?) as the other panel is missing the handle. I can send you one handle if you like.

I may have two to send you. I will check today and PM you.

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I mounted it on 2 wood planks (1"H x 2"W), picked up at Home Depot.
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Can you please describe/detail how you installed/attached microwave to shelf?

How does he run his 12V equipment?

Looks like the PO lowered/rebuilt the portion of the shelf to make it fit—thus reducing ability to get in/out of dish storage area. A trade-off. See my OEM "analog" microwave's position below

A photo would tell. I am guessing his is "at the mast" not "on the mast" (i.g. at the gooseneck).

Ken—what doesn't "sound right" about a reef hook on the mast?