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Messages - Noah

It looks like you have a nice, clean, 1988 C34 MKI. Since you asked for feedback here goes. Regardless of all the "upgrades" and money you invested in her—- unfortunately, in my opinion, your boat's value is $45k TOPS in today's marketplace. If you want to sell it you need to significantly lower your price.
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
Yesterday at 11:50:15 AM
Tip: use a heat gun or hair dryer on vinyl hoses to facilitate easier on/off.
Main Message Board / Re: Sail "Patches"
February 24, 2024, 11:36:05 PM
CD doesn't make their own sails. Ullman Sails Venture, CA loft does. Should be able to get logo patches from them or any other sailmaker. My mainsail came from North Sails and has C34 logo patches on it.
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
February 24, 2024, 11:56:26 AM
Toss the 10-year-old West System 105 and hardener. I would clean and grind prep surface, then use the 6/10 thickened epoxy (unless it is old) PLUS cover seam with (new) 105 epoxy and 205 hardener— with some fiberglass cloth/cloth tape over seam. If 6/10 is old, toss it too and use some West 406 filler into crack instead,then go over with cloth and 105 epoxy.
Main Message Board / Re: stainless shaft
February 21, 2024, 05:52:28 PM
If you order a new SS shaft. Spec "Aquamet 22" alloy (same as Aqualoy 22) which according to experts offers the best strength and corrosion resistance.
Some How to info:
Main Message Board / Re: stainless shaft
February 21, 2024, 11:49:54 AM
Eric— did you get the new coupler faced and shaft lap fit to match your prop at a machine shop locally or do it yourself?
If still need to do it here is a "how to"
THX STU—. I made the edit from "Low" to "high".
To those folks who's tachs don't work when their shore power charger is on:
I did some consulting with an electrical engineer to further delve into why I DO NOT have an issue with my tach while running my engine when on shore power.  His response was "It is a common problem for alternators to reduce their output  when the batteries appear charged to such a high level that the amplitude of the pulses from the stator winding of the alternator becomes too low to drive the tach. However, many external regulators, such as the Balmar contain a dedicated terminal that you can use that provides an amplified version of the pulses from the alternator to reliably drive the tach. Balmar has a doc on their site."
So possibly, Stu (?) may not have hooked his tach to that special terminal. And others, who have internal regulators, may not have this capability. Bottomline is, there is a way for those with most external regulators to solve this issue, so their tach works regardless of being on shore power or not (or on solar for that matter).
I believe Stu is referring to reply #8. However, i don't see that issue in my world.  I run my engine all the time with shore power on and battery charger on and batteries at 100% SOC using a Balmer 614 external regulator, Leece 95A alternator and my TACH WORKS FINE. Been doing it this way for YEARS as my boat stays plugged in and charging until I disconnect it to go sailing. Just did again it today. Tach starts registering when the motor fires up. Maybe my regulator settings are different than Stu's?? I also have battery sense and temp feeds and Balmer battery SmartGauge monitor. Also, I have not had any glow plug issues, either. I have the glow plug solenoid modification installed.
I run my engine frequently with shore power plugged in using glow plugs. I have also never had an issue with glow plugs failure nor with my tach not registering when batteries are at 100% SOC. Don't believe I live a "charmed life", either. Anyone else have issues with your tach not registering when batteries are full?
STU— I assume that your statement "there is no tach signal with full batteries" does not apply if you are running an external regulator.  Or, some other wiring is set-up differently on my boat, as I have never had this issue. I run my engine with 100% SOC on batteries "all the time" and always have a tach reading.
STU—you said QUOTE: "If your batteries are full, regulators signal to the alternator that no more power is required and turn the signal to the tach off." What? Can you please explain? I have never heard of this nor experienced it before. Tach shuts-off when batteries are full??
Like most of my DIY boat projects, I achieved SUCCESS on my second try. My hatch lid is now rebuilt and withstood "historic" SoCa rain with no leaks. I did not need to rebuild or re-bed the hatch to deck, as it was fine. Just the lid: new lens, new gasket, new rollstop hinge kit and new handles. It was not a fun job. Here are some Tricks & Tips to get there easier than I did.
1. remove gasket then remove all old sealant with scraper, wire brush, scotch pad, acetone, from lid frame—whatever works for you.
2. Heat-up gasket with hair dryer or heat gun, and feed it around in frame channels slowly, a bit at a time. The channel that wraps around is easy the other one is not, This takes a lot of strength and fiddling. It helps to use small spring, ratchet or C-clamps to hold sections of gasket completed so they don't pop out while doing another sections. The corners are the most problematic. Once all is finally in place, peel back the inside inch or so at the corners dab some super glue under.

BTW- the gaskets from Hatch Masters comes by the foot while the one from Catalina Direct comes as one piece which is too long. In either case you will need to be cut to length and super glued back together once installed.
3.Make sure you identify which side of the lens is up/down. The downward face of the lens has two key/positioning holes on the to fit the handles. Check that the two key holes —which are drilled ONLY PARTIALLY through the lens—are the correct size for the handle's small locating pin to fit into. I had to VERY CAREFULLY bore mine out a bit with a drill bit. TIP: When drilling acrylic take a file and smooth off the pointy flutes of the drill bit so it doesn't grab the plastic and bite which could crack the acrylic.
4. Peel off the protective backing on the new lens, and re-tape a 2-inch edge border with painters tape. It gives better protection and a cleaner line than the factory paper backing. And easier to peel after applying sealant.
5. Once gasket is done: use Dow 795 to set/seal the lens into the channel on top of the gasket. Then add another bead of sealant into the channel around the lens. Once lens is down seated on the sealant it fits almost to size, so there is not much room to put additional sealant around the edge. But do so.
6. Pull tape after 30 mins.
7. Carefully clean up any errant Dow 795 with mineral spirits
Main Message Board / Re: Snappy New Message Board
February 08, 2024, 11:50:57 AM
We were experiencing some intense SPAM/BOT "attacks" recently, so our webmaster upgraded the site software yesterday. Things may change again as adjustments are being made. We should have more info on this later and hopefully post a brief tutorial.