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Partial battened main, Dacron cross cut construction, loose footed.  2 full battens and two partial, three sets of reef points. Used for 8 seasons.  Has a few chafe marks and a rip that was repaired by American Custom Sails in Erie, PA this past winter, who gave it a thumbs up in quality. Luff has plastic slides attached.  Has the pockets and control line discs for a Dutchman flaking system if you have one or care to add one.   Asking $500.  Pick-up in Erie, PA, or you pay for shipping. Call or text Allan at 814-746-8200 or email at abelovarac1263@gmail.com

Partial battened main, dacron cross cut construction, loose footed.  2 full battens and two partial, three sets of reef points. Used for 8 seasons.  Has a few chafe marks and a rip that was repaired by American Custom Sails in Erie, PA this past winter, who gave it a thumbs up in quality. Luff was made with loops for Tides Marine sliders, but if you don't have that system, slides of your choice can be attached.  Equipped for Dutchman flaking system. Asking $500.  Pick-up in Erie, PA, or you pay for shipping. Call or text Allan at 814-746-8200 or email at abelovarac1263@gmail.com

Hello, is the water tank you listed some time ago still available?

Thanks,
Allan Belovarac

Hello all,  I have a C34 Mark 1.5 (1993) and am replacing the old Perko vents located on each of my stern quarters that are connected to the blower in the engine compartment. The new Perko vents are built to take a 3 1/4  vent hose rather than the 2 1/2 inch hose that connected to the old ones.  I was wondering whether anyone could advise me on how I can adapt the new 3" vents to accept the 2 1/2 inch hose.

I switched the original air cleaner on my M35 to a K&N lifetime filter.  I have three new air elements that I no longer need (Universal Part #301049), along with the filter assembly itself.  I'm looking at $30 for the three unused air elements, the filter assembly is free if you're looking for a spare. Postage is extra.  Contact me at abelovarac1263@gmail.com if interested.  I only get on this site occasionally so you'll get a quicker response by emailing me directly.

I installed a new stack pack and lazy jacks last spring for my 34 TR and found that I prefer the Dutchman instead.  They were only up for a three weeks so they're in next to new condition. The set would fit a standard or tall rig as the boom length is the same on both. The pack attaches to the boom by slugs that slide into the track (I have a loose-footed main). The slugs are removable for an alternate form of attachment. The lazy jacks are from Nautos and the stack pack was made by Somerset Sails.    The lazyjacks include all hardware and lines.  I'm asking $400 plus shipping OBO for the combined stack pack and lazy jacks.  You can reach me via cell at 814-746-8200 or email at <abelovarac@mercyhurst.edu>  I'm located in Erie, PA.

I have a 1993 Catalina Mark 1.5 and was in the process of replacing both bilge hoses (electric and manual) and fear I pulled a major blunder.  I attached a messenger line to the old ones as I removed them, thinking all I had to do was attach the new hose to the messenger and it would easily pass under the sole. Unfortunately  I discovered there are many unseen obstructions in the way under the cabin sole that prevent me from pulling it through between the bilge and the area under the head sink. I was wondering whether anyone had ever experienced a similar problem and came up with a solution.  I was thinking of removing the floorboard and cutting an access hole but hate to do major surgery when there might be an alternative discovered by someone who has more creative problem-solving abilities than me. 

Thanks for all your input!  I wondered whether it had been replaced as well - looked pretty good for all those years.  Glad to hear 2500 hours is not that much - I didn't have any reference to judge.   I did take the nuts off the flange just to see if they came off easily and they did.  Won't forget to put 'em back on. I guess it goes along with that old saying - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Hello all!  I own a 1993 Mark 1.5 34 TR and have been reading about the need to replace the exhaust riser periodically due its tendency to fail at the most inopportune moment.  Since mine is 29 years old, and I have close to 2500 hours on the engine, I thought I'd have a look its condition.  After removing the insulation, I found what appears at first glance to be a solid riser with no visible leaks or cracks.  It's stainless steel with some rust around the elbow going into the manifold flange as well as the muffler, but as far as I can determine it seems pretty solid.  Not sure whether to go through the trouble of fabricating or buying a new one.  I am handy but don't have much experience with engines other than the usual maintenance.  Any thoughts from anyone who has more experience or a better eye for this?  Here's some pictures.  On the one showing the flange, note that I removed the top two nuts anticipating the possibility of replacement. The boat spent its first 18 years in salt water, but since then has been a sweet water boat on Lake Erie.

Over the last couple years my non skid decking in the cockpit is anything but under dry conditions.  When she's heeling over, myself and crew slide to leeward like we're on ice.  Even with new deck shoes. When it's wet, the shoes grip fine.  I have never applied anything to it, though when I scrub it down I use Barkeepers Friend cleanser.  Anyone else have this problem, and if so, any recommended solutions?

I installed a new stack pack and lazy jacks last spring for my 34 TR and found that it just doesn't work for me, so I went back to my old ways.  The lazy jacks are Nautos and the stack pack was made by Somerset Sails. I have a picture of them set up if anyone is interested but the file is too large to post here, so I can send you the pics.   The lazyjacks include all hardware and lines.  I'm selling the combined stack pack and lazy jacks for $400 plus shipping.  You can reach me via cell at 814-746-8200 or email at <abelovarac@mercyhurst.edu>  I'm located in Erie, PA if you're in the area and are interested. 

Sorry I hit the "quote" link rather than the "reply.  First time I'm using this, so here goes again.   I have a Code Zero that you might be interested in. It's only three years old and has been used only a half-dozen times or less.  Comes with a Chute Scoop sock. The foot measures 29.5', luff 45', and the leech is 44.75' It was made by Somerset Sails in Barker, NY. I'm asking $1500 for the package. Let me know if you are interested and we can exchange contact info.

I have a Code Zero that you might be interested in. It's only three years old and has been used only a half-dozen times or less.  Comes with a Chute Scoop sock. The foot measures 29.5', luff 45', and the leech is 44.75' It was made by Somerset Sails in Barker, NY. I'm asking $1500 for the package.

For cruising and... attempted PHRF racing too.

I have a standard rig and attach at the base of the forestay, so the luff should be 46' or less.

Thanks!

S/V Sea Haven

Thanks for the suggestion, Ken - I hadn't thought of that but it sounds like a winner.  Interestingly, I have a brother named Ken and he's an engineer too.   Not sure why  my clearance is less - from the picture Noah posted it looks like his radial wheel is positioned higher than mine.  I have about equal clearance above and below the radial.

I was thrilled to finally find some fellow Mk1 C34 owners struggling with the drive installation for an under deck auto pilot that I can commiserate with.  This spring I'm installing a Raymarine EV-200 linear drive system on my 1993 C34, hull #1263.  Not thinking there would be an issue down below, I discovered one as soon as I got the dimensions of the tiller arm I need from Edson.  The arm is 1 5/8" thick, requiring at least 1 3/4 inches of unobstructed rudder post on which to attach the arm. However, on my boat, there's only 1 1/8" of post between the radial drive and the rudder post stuffing box. I don't want to go back to the wheel pilot as I found that it gets overpowered too often when conditions pipe up.  I do a lot of long distance solo challenges on the Great Lakes so I need a more reliable and heavy duty system.  So, here's my solution I'd like to run by folks who might have encountered the same issue:  I'm thinking of cutting the top inch off the fiberglass sleeve that encases the rudder post, re-attach the stuffing box,  thus giving me the clearance I need for the tiller arm.  I'm waiting to hear back from Catalina whether I might be compromising the structure of the rudder assembly in any way ( I majored in history rather than engineering).  I did call Catalina but the fellow I spoke with wasn't sure what to tell me so he's going to get back to me. In the meantime, I'm hoping that some other C34 owners faced a similar problem and I'm interested in how they solved it.  I hate to reinvent the wheel if I can benefit from someone else's experience!