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Messages - awesome34

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Main Message Board / Hood Seafurl Guard
« on: May 15, 2020, 08:49:52 PM »
Hello Sailors,

The guard arm on my Hood Seafurl broke off on my 1988 and I lost my furling line guard. It still furls and unfurls fine, but some of the furling line will always escape from the drum during a sail and so someone needs to go up to the bow and make sure the line is in the furler drum before furling the genoa. I would like to try to fix it since the basic furling mechanism still works. I emailed Hood to see if they had any replacement parts and they said no and that the company that did the tooling for those parts went bankrupt in 1994. So, any advice or creative ideas from the wise sailors on here? Or any old Hood Seafurls lying around that were replaced?


Main Message Board / Re: alternator
« on: April 12, 2020, 04:30:58 PM »

FWIW, the link below is the alternator I have on my boat as I was considering buying a new one recently. Instead, I had it rebuilt because the housing had cracked due to too much vibration on the bolt through the mounting bracket. The electrical was fine. I bought a replacement housing online and a better bolt to limit vibration that I found in a post on somewhere. I didn't have the tools to do the alternator rebuild on my own. So I found a local alternator shop, that did the repair for much cheaper than a new alternator. Could be an option for you too.

Part No: 8MR2198L

Main Message Board / Re: San Diego slips
« on: June 14, 2018, 10:58:12 AM »
I have always found this price comparison helpful when investigating Marinas here: 

In general, pricing seems to be based on a combination of convenience to the ocean/amenities. The more of some combination of those, the more expensive the marina. I am at the Marriott Marina downtown and it is expensive, but has a great location and, since I live on my boat, having a walk-able neighborhood is worth it to me, but if I didn't live on my boat I think I might pick a less expensive shelter or harbor island marina because it is more convenient to the sailing/racing events and services around here. Everyone has different priorities though...


Main Message Board / Re: Difficulty shifting into forward
« on: September 18, 2016, 10:16:44 AM »
I think you found what I was talking about.  I simple moved the cable back in the clamp about as far as I was comfortable that the clamp would still hold the cable and that was enough of an adjustment for me. There is separation in the cable that is ideal for the clamp's notch in my cable, as well, so it might be more ideal to adjust at the compass to keep that clamp in the notch, but I found that the clamp holds quite strong where I was able to put it, although you may want more of an adjustment than I did. I think I removed my compass the first time the problem occurred and felt like there were a lot more ways for me to screw up a repair up there than down below, but you and others may feel differently. Although, I may have purchased some longer screws to hold the clamp in after the boatyard guy managed to accidentally yank the cable out while installing a drip-less shaft.  Maybe I shouldn't be, but I am comfortable with it now and it has worked so far for me. I have attached pictures of how my cable is attached in case that might help. 

Main Message Board / Re: Difficulty shifting into forward
« on: September 17, 2016, 03:54:46 PM »
I have had this problem a couple of times.  First when replacing the plastic gear shift with the metal ones in which case I could not get into forward and then again one time coming back from the boat yard when someone who was working on my boat in the general area of the transmission cable unintentionally "adjusted" it so that I did not have reverse. To fix it I made all of my adjustments below the aft cabin where the transmission cable has a screw on attachment a little ways behind the transmission that allows you to adjust the cable forward or backward slightly, but enough for me, relative to the transmission. I would make adjustments down below and then run the engine and make sure I could put the boat in forward and reverse at low rpm while still tied to the dock until I was happy with it.  The results of that process have worked fine for me so far. 


Main Message Board / Re: Prop Vibration
« on: July 21, 2015, 03:33:08 PM »
Thanks Ron.  I have tried to attach a photo of the prop from when it was installed in the yard.  It does look like there is more than an inch between the hub and the strut.  That could be an issue.


Main Message Board / Re: Prop Vibration
« on: July 21, 2015, 01:39:50 PM »

I haven't ruled out the suggestion that engine alignment is a potential cause of the vibration. The people on this board have a lot more experience than I do and are very wise.  I just wanted to give Noah, who is going into the boatyard soon, the opinion of my mechanic that the shaft could also be contributing since he is thinking of replacing his shaft while he is in there.  I don't plan to replace my shaft anytime soon, and I think a broken shaft is extremely unlikely, but I am sure my boat mechanic has seen it somewhere, even if not on a c34.  I may consider replacing my shaft the next time I have work done if I haven't found other ways to reduce the vibrations by then though.   


Main Message Board / Re: Prop Vibration
« on: July 21, 2015, 10:33:19 AM »
Noah, I just went for a ride along with the mechanic from the boatyard.  He felt like the increased vibration was likely due to the increased bite in the new prop and because I have a brass shaft so that it has more bend and thus more vibration than a stainless steel shaft would.  He looked at the shaft while we were going and didn't think the vibration was that serious an issue though.  I don't plan to do too much about it in the short term since I just got out of the boatyard, but he felt that putting a stainless steel shaft in would likely reduce the vibration, so maybe it is a good idea for you to do that.  Also, he said that at some point a bronze shaft will break, it could be a very long time, but stainless steel is much stronger. 

Main Message Board / Re: Prop Vibration
« on: July 20, 2015, 12:40:13 PM »
Thanks Ron.  Are you are talking about the shaft alignment or something else in the engine?

Hello fellow San Diegan, Noah.  I went to the shelter island boatyard and basically did what you are about to do.  I still have a bronze shaft.  I chose the two bladed prop because I race more than I cruise so minimum drag was the most important thing to me, plus 2 bladed props are less expensive.  I rarely have to fight through waves or any of the types of things that I have read 3 bladed props are better for.  My PSS was installed by Hoffman Yacht, one of the businesses in the yard.  I like my PSS, but the manufacturer recommends drilling an additional thru-hull for it, which I reluctantly agreed to. There is another way involving a tube that is two feet above the water line all the time even when heeled over which can be difficult to do in a c34.  The older PSS design didn't have either and I think some folks on the c34 board have gotten by with less tube and a reservoir.   Anyway I recommend thinking about that ahead of time.  Initially the new thru-hull leaked, so I had to get that addressed after I left the boatyard, but they fixed it. Now that everything is squared away, my bilge was bone dry until it rained.  If you have any questions about my boatyard experience feel free to send me a message, Noah.

Main Message Board / Prop Vibration
« on: July 20, 2015, 08:03:10 AM »
I just got out of the boatyard with a new PSS dripless shaft seal and a new flex-o-fold two bladed (15x10) prop.  I expected a little more vibration because my previous prop was a fixed 3 blade 15x9.  While it is nothing drastic that would stop me from using the boat in the short term, when motoring I feel like I get a lot more vibration, especially in the cockpit and sometimes the backstay, now than I did before. My crew has noticed it as well.  Any suggestions of what can be done to reduce the vibration and how I might be able to tell if it is a real long term problem or just normal with a two bladed prop? 

The new prop is delivering propulsion just fine and is definitely reducing drag when under sail.  Right now, I plan to go back to the folks that did the work at the boatyard and see if they will ride along and give me their opinion, but I thought I would see if any other c34 owners have had experience with this. 


Main Message Board / Re: Main Halyard Snapped
« on: June 13, 2014, 05:53:43 PM »
Can we get an idea how old these halyards were.
It would be good preventive maintence information.
I wish I could tell you exactly how old the halyard is, but the boat is almost 3 years old to me and it came with the halyards.  So I can only say older than 3 years which probably isn't too helpful. The line looked in pretty good shape to me and it was the splice at the shackle that gave way. 

There is a factor you might want to consider that is different on my boat than other c34s.  I have a motorized winch that I use to raise the main (I have a boom furling main sail), so we may have been putting a little more stress on that splice to try to get every last millimeter of sail area than most folks raising the sail with human power would have, but it worked for 3 years, so it still might have been just fatigue on that splice. 

A revving eye spice is nice, but electrical tape overlapped, wrapped around and tapered, should work fine too. BTW - I am in San Diego too, and would love to meet up sometime! I am At SDYC slip A-23.
- Noah
Noah, I would enjoy meeting up with you sometime.  I am located at the Marriott Marina downtown.  Also, I am not sure if you are aware, but there is a Catalina owners club in San Diego  Another good way to meet fellow Catalina owners in town that you might want to check out. 

Main Message Board / Main Halyard Snapped
« on: June 11, 2014, 09:20:36 PM »
As I was taking the boat out for a beer can race this evening, we had just finished raising the main sail and then the main halyard snapped and fell into the mast.  I was able to remove the exit plate and pull the line out of the mast, but I am going to need to be able to run a new halyard without the benefit of using the previous halyard as a threading line.  I read some advice on forums about using bicycle chain, magnets, and some other clever ideas to run the line properly.  Has anyone else ever had a similar problem?  Any suggestions or advice are appreciated. 


Thank you very much for the advice guys.  I have heard good things about Ullman Sails from quite a few people now, so I plan to take my sail to their local loft and see what they recommend. 


My genoa needs at least a new UV cover.   I am not necessarily going to go back to the maker of this sail, but the previous owner bought the sail and I should probably know what brand of sail it is.  I don't see any other markings on the sail. 


Main Message Board / Re: Sheared bolt on Edson pedestal gear shift lever
« on: January 20, 2013, 02:00:38 PM »
I finally replaced the plastic levers on Awesome with stainless steel.  I prevented the gear shift from hitting the pedestal guard in a slightly different way than I've seen posted, but some of the other suggestions might be better. 

Accessing the rear of the engine from the aft berth access panel, you can see that the cable that goes to the gear shift lever is held in place by a bracket.  If you loosen that bracket you can shift the cable forward or backward and give yourself a little extra room for the gear shift lever. There is only a small part of the cable that is protected by a metal casing that the bracket can be tightened on, but it was just enough for us to make an adjustment that left about a quarter inch before the lever would run into the guard. 


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