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Messages - Dave Spencer

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 27
1
Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: October 01, 2019, 04:18:44 PM »
There are lots of variables. Hereís some food for thought from a well regarded authority and a frequent contributor to this site.
YBYC
https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/fuel_tankt_condensation

2
Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: October 01, 2019, 12:25:06 PM »
Geoffrey,
I think regular inspection would only be for the most anal sailor.  However, I think Breakin has a point.  I suspect those of us in the north would be at lower risk for growth inside the tank as opposed to those sailors in warm humid conditions for most of the year. 


3
Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: October 01, 2019, 11:29:24 AM »
Geoff,
My tank was clean when I pulled it out. It was 18 years old and to my knowledge, had never been cleaned. Nevertheless, I went through the process because I had already gone to the effort of pulling the tank. Iím glad I did as I no longer lay awake worrying about nasty growth or sediment hiding in the tank waiting to clog my filter and kill my engine at the most inopportune time.

4
Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: October 01, 2019, 09:29:29 AM »
Breakin,
I pulled my tank and cleaned it in 2012 per Ron Hill's Tech Note instructions.    Here's a link to a similar discussion.  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9355.msg69451.html#msg69451 I have a 1994 Mk 1.5 but I don't think the fuel tank configuration changed much for later builds.

The tank is not glassed in.  It's screwed to the shelf accessible by removing the port wall in the aft cabin which comes out very easily (once you've cleared out "the garage").
The suction and return line tubes are threaded into the tank as shown in the picture.  The level gauge is bolted in via a small plate.
There are no inspection ports on my tank nor do I think there are ports on any C34 OEM tanks.  I seem to recall some owners have added them.  A search should show this.
My tank is made of 0.090" thick 5052 Aluminium
The fuel fill is not a straight drop.
The tank can be emptied by pumping it out. Have an appropriate number of 20 litre diesel containers available and disconnect the fuel delivery line after the electric pump and place the hose in the container.  For convenience, you will likely want to make up a longer hose. 

Pics of my tank In Situ and removed attached.

Hope this helps.  It's a fairly easy job.

5
Main Message Board / Re: raymarine ST 4000+ conversion to EV 100
« on: September 14, 2019, 09:21:20 AM »
Dan,
It looks like there isnít anyone here who can help. Iíve found the Raymarine forums and FAQs to be helpful. There are Raymarine moderators who can and will answer most well framed questions.
http://forum.raymarine.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=23

Good luck... I too am having trouble with my autopilot (SPX-5) and need to post a question or two on the Raymarine forum.

6
Main Message Board / Re: Outhaul
« on: September 07, 2019, 10:29:02 AM »
Yes, same as the link Noah provided.  The previously rotating gooseneck is pinned to prevent rotation.

Had a great summer cruising the North Channel and some fantastic places along eastern Georgian Bay.  I didn't hear you on the radio or see you but, from your previous post, it sounds like you had a good season.


 

7
Main Message Board / Re: Outhaul
« on: September 07, 2019, 08:54:22 AM »
Sorry Paul,
I recalled I had posted about the gooseneck and went with that link.  Scroll down one post and the solid gooseneck is there.  Noah nailed it as usual.


8
Main Message Board / Re: Outhaul
« on: September 07, 2019, 04:39:21 AM »
Paul,
Pics and links to the CD fixed gooseneck here.  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.msg49169.html#msg49169


9
Main Message Board / Re: advice on upgrading mainsheet blocks
« on: July 08, 2019, 04:24:37 PM »
Yet another endorsement for Garhauer.  They are very high quality parts and their customer service is fantastic.  I love it every year when they brave the cold and come to the Toronto Boat Show in January.  I usually have a list.  If I contact them before they come to the show, they will bring what I need and hold it for me.  Great people.  This is one of the rare happy cases where the best product and best service is reasonably priced.
 

10
Main Message Board / Re: AC outlets not working
« on: July 08, 2019, 04:14:44 PM »
Bob,
Welcome to the forum.  You'll get lots of help here.
To level set Ken who is very knowledgable on marine systems but has a C30 (I think), I've attached a couple of pictures of the C34 AC power panel and used the nomenclature Bob used in his original question. 
Stu's right, the manual can be your friend.  http://c34.org/wiki/images/b/b1/1988-C34-Owners.pdf  Page 32 of the Mk 1 manual has an AC wiring diagram that shows three distinct branches; one for the chart table (what you call the "Main"), one for the head, and one for the V-berth, galley and aft cabin.  The schematic show the plugs aren't on their own breaker; they are protected by the 30A main breaker.  (seems unlikely, especially based on comments above from Mk1 owners)  This is different from my Mk 1.5 where the outlets are shown to be protected by a 20A breaker and they are all daisy chained together with Ground Fault Protection for all plugs provided by the outlet at the chart table.  Page 39 here for Mk 1.5  http://c34.org/wiki/images/6/61/C34_Manual_4th_Edition.pdf
Neither manual / schematic shows a circuit for the battery charger nor is the transom breaker shown.  (On my boat and I suspect on most, there is a 30 Amp breaker at the power entry plug on my transom as is required by code and good practice.)  The Mk II manual has captured all of this fairly well in its schematic on page 38 here. http://c34.org/wiki/images/d/dc/C34-mkII-owners-manual.pdf
So, in this case, the Mk I and 1.5 manuals are likely not incorrect but appear to be incomplete. 
You've likely already tried this but to narrow it down, get an outlet tester and check each receptacle.   Ensure the GFI "reset" button on the outlet at the chart table is pushed in.  If you only have the chart table working, try tripping the GFI receptacle by pushing "test".  You should have no voltage at any receptacle including the chart table.  If you suspect a splice and you have confidence, unplug the boat and inspect the splice.  Check the connections at the bus bars.  Ensure the GFI receptacle is wired correctly.  If you have confidence, proceed carefully and systematically.  If not, get help.

Let us know how you make out.


11
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel sending unit read full all the time
« on: June 28, 2019, 10:03:05 AM »
Good advice from all.  Donít give up on your gauge yet. As Jon pointed out, you have used very little fuel and it wouldnít be surprising if the gauge stayed on full assuming you started with a full tank. Also, keep in mind gauges / senders arenít necessarily linear. Over time, you will develop a sense for your fuel consumption based on engine hours. I used about the same amount of fuel as Jon indicated in his earlier post. For planning purposes, I assume a burn rate of 3 litres/hr which is 3/4 USG / hr (approximately). I usually burn less but if powering hard in rough seas, 3 l/hr is about right. I assume a max run time of 25 hours per tank  based on a 25 USG tank (95 litres), assume 20 litres is unusable leaving me with 75 litres to burn at 3 l/hr. All of this is very conservative and I rarely run more than 15 hrs without filling up. 
Bottom line - no hurry to condemn the gauge or sender. If, in time, you determine the gauge or sender is bad, you have lots of great advice on this post and elsewhere on this site to correct.
Let us know how you make out.

12
Main Message Board / Re: Albemarle Loop Question
« on: June 20, 2019, 04:16:13 PM »
James,
I just checked out your website on Free ICW Docks. What a great resource.  :clap Thanks for pulling it together. We plan to head down the ICW to The Bahamas likely in 2021. Assuming your site is still up and running, you can be sure that we will use it for planning and while under way and will provide you with feedback as we make our way south.

13
Main Message Board / Re: Secondary Fuel Filter
« on: June 14, 2019, 04:18:54 PM »
Great information Ken. Thanks. I definitely see the voltmeter as the gauge to sacrifice in favour of an oil pressure gauge. Thereís merit to moving the fuel gauge since it isnít something you need to refer to every few minutes but i want to retain it and donít want to relocate it below decks. I count on my battery monitor and solar panel meter below decks to give me accurate house battery voltage and donít need the cockpit gauge. Looks like a good off season project for this winter.

14
Main Message Board / Re: Secondary Fuel Filter
« on: June 14, 2019, 02:15:27 PM »
Good observation Ken. Yes, the tabs are bent. I suspect from some previous manipulation although possibly due to stiff wire. At some point, Iíd like to revisit that area and add a pressure sender and replace the voltmeter at the instrument panel with an oil pressure gauge. Has anyone done this?  What kind of thread on the sender will I need?  Is it a simple 1/8ĒNPT or something more exotic? 

15
Main Message Board / Re: Secondary Fuel Filter
« on: June 14, 2019, 12:53:02 PM »
MarcZ,
Bleeding the M35A is fairly easy with only one complication.
I simply open the knurled knob (hopefully you know what and where that is... if not, I can add a pic) and put the key in the "run" position at the cockpit instrument panel.  The complication is that there is a much discussed circuit in the M35A and possibly other engines that stops the fuel pump if the oil pressure is zero but allows the fuel pump to run if the glow plugs are activated.  I don't like holding the key in the "glow" position for the length of time it takes to bleed the fuel system due to the the power drain and what I view as unnecessary wear and tear on the glow plugs.  So, when I'm bleeding the fuel system after changing filters, I cut a short piece of wire and short circuit the oil pressure switch allowing the fuel pump to run with the engine off and the key in the "run" position.  Pics below.  Maybe someday I'll make this semi-permanent and add a switch instead of the jumper wire.  I don't fill the filters with fuel before replacing them.  This seems like an opportunity to spill fuel given my occasional clumsy nature.  I simply let gravity and the fuel pump do its job and after a few minutes, the system is bled.  With practice, you will be able to tell the system is bled by the sound the fuel pump makes.
Others may have different approaches but this works for me.  MBMC


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