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Messages - gwp

#1
Main Message Board / Re: Racor problems
September 11, 2022, 04:03:41 PM
Thx Ron. I do have tiny bubbles coming from upper section of bowl. Just hoping the problem is not from tank connection requiring that dreaded job of removing panel to access tank. First I will do what you suggested.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Racor problems
September 10, 2022, 07:25:41 PM
Thanks for that info. I think my problem is the air leak on the suction side of the system coupled with closing the bleed screw. Ron...are there any negative consequences of running all the time with an open bleed screw because the engine is not struggling when I crack it. There are so many plugs, valves, pumps, etc on this racor I feel sure that's where the air intrusion is. My electric pump is on the downstream (engine side) of the racor creating negative pressure on the racor. Thanks again
#3
Main Message Board / Racor problems
September 10, 2022, 03:27:39 PM
Hull#568
I have a Racor R24P water separator which is probably original on my 88 C34. I have never completely understood this mysterious thing. It never has water in the bowl tho I have water and the resulting black snot that results which I am always fighting with biobor biocide treatment bc we don't run the M25XP enough. It has a plastic turnscrew on top which when unscrewed converts to some sort of pump which I don't understand. Today when the engine seemed to be starving for fuel and died, I shined a flashlight in the bowl and noticed tiny bubbles coming from the upper end of the bowl. I found that the engine runs better when I open the bleed screw  on the engine. Does this make sense? Guess the bleed screw is venting the small amount of air in the system? I think it might be time to replace this possibly 34 yo racor but if so, will any water separator be OK or is this one specific to this type engine? Any advice appreciated!
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Honda 2000 generator
May 22, 2021, 06:41:58 AM
Interesting! Never knew that. Has anyone set up a thru Hull for exhaust for running it in there?
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Rub rail insert
January 18, 2021, 06:27:14 PM
Very interesting! Will call tomorrow. Thank you!
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Rub rail insert
January 17, 2021, 04:05:56 PM
Tan. Not grey. Thanks
#7
Main Message Board / Rub rail insert
January 17, 2021, 03:41:13 PM
Just placed an order for numerous items for my 88' C34 to repair from hurricane Sally. Just realized that I failed to order the rub rail insert but looking on their site it is not listed? However if they do have it I'll probably have to order waaaaay more than I need, as what they show is well over$200. I only need about 10 feet. If anyone has some in their scrap pile they would sell me or know where I can get a short length I would so appreciate. Thanks much!
#8
Ended up going with the KISS system and switch manually rather than the ACR relay. Thank you for all the advice. One thing which has me confused tho.... The primary negative cable.... Apparently.... goes directly from the engine block to the batteries and NOT thru the electrical panel area. However, when I remove the ground cable from the battery terminal I still have a ground coming from somewhere because the house circuits still power lights fans, etc. This has me bumfuzzled. I checked the manual wiring diagram and it doesn't show another groung going anywhere else? What's going on here?  Thanks again
#9
Thank you for the responses. With the new electron demands of refrigeration I want to ensure under any circumstances I can start engine. In my thinking, the answer is a battery solely dedicated to starting engine. As I indicated in earlier posts, I am installing two 100 watt solar panels hoping that my two group 31 deep cycle batteries will do the job. Without getting too deep and analytical, what is the simplest way to accomplish this? I understand I can go manual thru switches but think I'd rather use a device to avoid relying on my failing memory like the ACR relay. I guess if rather explain to my wife went the fridge is warming rather than why the engine won't start. Thanks again
#10
So sorry. Don't know where distributor came from. I meant alternator. This is what I want to do and surprised I can't find more info on web. I have 2 AGM battery bank and I am installing 2 - 100w solar panels with mppt controller. I simply want to add a starting battery and isolate it from any current draw but want all 3 batteries to charge from all sources...engine, solar panels (and 2 bank battery charger from shorepower). All wiring is pretty much stock. My plan is to redirect the starting cable from engine to the new starting battery. Since last post I've learned about an Automatic Charging Rely (ACR) which should eliminate any house-draw on starting battery but allow charging current. Am I on the right track? Thanks much
#11
1988 C34 25xp
Have only volt meter on electrical panel and no re-wiring I'm aware of.  I just read an old post on some other forum possibly answering my question. They indicated there is not a separate wire used to charge batteries while engine running.... The charging current runs back thru the primary big battery cable. Is this accurate? The C34 wiring diagram in the manual does not show another separate wire for charging. Thanks for quick response!
#12
Main Message Board / Charging wire from alternator
July 11, 2020, 02:51:07 PM
In my original wiring there isn't a smaller (maybe#10) wire ran from the distributor to the battery for charging? How does the engine charge batteries without a dedicated wire? Does it somehow charge they the big primary starting cable? Any help appreciated
#13
Main Message Board / Re: potable water pump
June 28, 2019, 05:42:08 AM
Thanks Ron..... Probably good idea. New pump just arrived and on weekend agenda. If I get another 31 years on this shurflo it'll definitely be my last....Thanks for help
#14
Main Message Board / Re: potable water pump
June 23, 2019, 04:23:35 PM
Thanks for response. Shurflo model 220. Took switch off pump to see if I could find problem. Put back together and still pumps with strong pressure but pressures switch won't kick it off. No complaints here Shurflo..... 31 years ain't bad. Thanks much for help
#15
Main Message Board / potable water pump
June 19, 2019, 05:02:09 PM
1988 C34 #568
My (probably original) potable water pump runs constantly when switched on at the electrical panel. The forward tank is full and the aft tank is closed off. What is throwing me is that there is no air coming from faucet when running indicating it isn't drawing air in the lines, and.....I'm pretty confident there aren't any leaks anywhere. I suspect the pressure switch isn't working? In an effort to check it, I clamped down on the discharge hose at the pump and the pump still runs constantly. Questions.....Do you agree on pressure switch malfunction? Can the switch be replace on a properly working pump or.....assuming the switch is bad......must I replace the whole pump/switch assembly? Thanks much for your help!