Messages

Yes we did it. The boat performed well.
As to the question about the rig. We up replaced all of the standing and running rigging. One of the upgrades from standard was that the chain plates for the uppers has a 5/8 hole and Catalina put a 1/2 turnbuckle with a 1/2 pin. So I installed 5/8 turnbuckles with a 5/8 pin. At the same time I went with one size larger wire. In hindsight probably not nessary. As long as you get your rigging cheched by a competent rigger before undertaking any type of offshore passage the standard rig should be ok.
Aussie Rules has how been sold in Australia and the new owner (Roly) just sailed down the coast from Quensland to Pittwater. He also sailed part way single handed.
Dave.
EX S/V Aussie Rules.

I talked to Frank from Felicity and he just retired. I will give Tartarooga a call

Thanks for your replies.

There are people in the Vancouver/Seattle area that can make dodgers. Even in Ontario they make nice dodgers. In there interior of BC where the boat is about four hours from Vancouver there are people, but there canvas work is mostly power boat oriented. 

I did get a quote from Genco. Which was very similar to Iversons out of Seattle.

I was trying to get one made by the people that supply Catalina Yachts. I am also surprised that they don't have the patterns for a C34 as there so many out there. The boats are also getting to the age that replacement canvas will start to be in demand.

Something I thought would be simple didn't turn out that way.

Dave

I am trying to get a dodger made for my C34mk2. The problem I am having is that there is no one in my area to make it. JSI Canvas in St Petersburg FL. has offered to make one to make the dodger if there is a C34mk2 in his area that he could use to measure on.
My question is there anyone in the St Petersburg area that would let the the canvas guy on their boat. He has said there would be a beer reward involved.
Thanks Dave.
Aussie Rules BC Canada

Catalina Direct has fiberglass and HDPE rudders for sale.

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2557/rudder-c-34-c-36brhdpe-unifoil-wing-keels.cfm

Dave.

I think that you should get a compression test done. It is an easy test done thru the glow plug holes. If you what to do it yourself I can PM you instructions.

I have been using a vacuum fluid extraction pump to do my oil changes thru the dip stick hole. Cheaper and less hassle than changing the oil pan. It can take a while to remove the oil but there is very little mess and easy to read how much oil was removed.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|314179&id=1298219

I changed out most of our halogen light with led's that I found at Home Depot. I think they are 12volt MR16 bulbs and appox $10. each. I took one to the store as a sample.

Dave.

A couple of things to check is that the prop is not fouled with growth or rope? Also is the bottom of the boat clean?

Dave.

I have nearly gone overboard sliding across the cabin top and I grabbed the halyards to stop myself as I was on my way out hanging my boots in the water. It was 4pm on a sunny day at the end of May in the Straight of Juan de Fuca and I wasn't clipped on. What doesn't kill you makes you stronger/smarter right? The boat wasn't a C34, but it doesn't matter you can fall off any boat.
We use webbing straps that start at a forward cleat and run down each side of the deck which dead end at the aft cleats. It is a bit of an issue when you come to the genoa block where you have to reclip. I use a Wichard double extendable tether so I am never separated from the boat with an auto inflate pfd/harness. I also have a regular strap style harness which I wear over my floater suit.
At the start of the season we do a man overboard drill throwing a fender overboard. We also do a drill before any overnight races and check that the crew has the correct gear and know how to use it. One of the most import things is to have someone besides yourself who can handle the boat and take control in a man overboard situation because it could be your ass in the water with a bunch of rookies trying to get you back on.

Dave.

The C&C 40 has an interesting nav station cushion that might work for a C34.

http://www.sailboatsflorida.com/37_candc_gitzi/large/DSC03473.jpg

Dave.

Stu, about 4 years ago the old bridge was replaced with new bridge that has a 60ft clear span to let us yachties and tour boats pass thru a anytime. This opened up the lake especially for sailing. There is approx. 60 mooring buoys scattered around the Okanagan Lake that everyone can use so we tie up to them mostly if they are available. Sometime we will go to other yacht clubs on the lake and get reciprocal moorage. We do anchor out but we have to be selective as it is a very deep lake (600ft+ in places) with a rocky shore line.

Dave

Thanks Kevin,

It was not an exercise for the faint of heart. The next time when I tow the boat over the mountains to the coast I will rent a bigger truck. My diesel did the job but it only just did it. After the boat was loaded we scaled it minus the trailer at 14500lbs (not the 12500lbs that Catalina Yachts told me when I talked to their tech department) That extra 2000lb made a big difference when you are at or above your towing limits. The boat was completely empty, no gear or water and a small amount of fuel.
I know this is an old thread, but it is about a year since the relaunch so it is a good time to update things. We are still using the boat allot. We are out most weekends sailing and overnighting. When it gets too hot at home we head down to the boat and stay overnight. We have tried to race the C34 in our local light airs with some frustration and now tow a small race boat around to regatta's and use the Catalina as the mothership. 

Dave.

I have replaced the head and galley lights with round LED lights. Do you mean the plastic board that fits in under the rear seat? If so then a plastics shop should be able to make a replacement.
Dave.

I had the exact same problem on my boat. If you look close at the front of the stem fitting it has been bent forward slightly at the bottom of the crack. The construction of the stem fitting is 1/4" SS with another 1/4" piece welded to the upper end so the pin doesn't move around. The semi circular cut is from the original weld (called undercutting) and may be only at the end of the weld.

My best guess why the fitting cracked is the forestay has been pulled forward at some point. Maybe a loose rig? On my boat the fitting doesn't line up with centreline of the boat, which could also have put load on it. Nor does it exactly point at the masthead fitting.

My advise would be to remove the fitting and take it to a stainless fabrication shop and have them straighten the fitting and weld the crack. I also had a piece of 1/4 inch SS welded into the fitting under the tang to beef it up so it was 1/2" all the way down.
You have two choices drop the mast or hold it up with halyards while you get it fixed. Ask a rigger what your best options are.

When you do remove the stem fitting there are some extra long bolts and some backing plates that could fall down. You also have to be a bit of a contortionist to get your arm thru the bung hole in the anchor locker to get to the nuts.

Dave.