Messages

Dave,
Yes, that is correct. You tighten the clamp around the wire sheath just enough to create more friction between the inside wire and the sheath. It might take a few 1/8th turns to get it just right. I had that setup on my C36 for probably 12-14 of the 18 years I owned it, and there were no problems. I think it was actually Will Keene, owner of Edson, who suggested that fix for the slipping throttle. Also, no need to spend the extra $$ for SS clamps. Any hardware store variety will do. There's really no exposure to salt water in that spot on the engine.

Dave,
I had the same problem on my C36. I talked with Edson, and they said I should try putting a cable clamp (also called a wire clamp or a saddle clamp) on the throttle cable, near the engine.  Much easier to access, install, and adjust. I can't remember the exact size. Available at most hardware stores. Hope this helps.

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Bob,
I agree with you about replacing the self-tapping screws with bolts.  I used 1/4-20x1/2" hex head bolts, drilled and tapped, and installed with lano-coat.  Easy to install and much easier to take apart the next time.

mfarrant,
I think I understand what you are asking.  A buddy of mine had the same problem.  Rather than move or replace the hinges, he simply attached small round cork "buttons" to the edges.  They are the kind that you would use under a glass tabletop.  About 1/2" in diameter and maybe 1/32" thick.  When the table is folded up, you can hardly see them.  When the leaves are opened, the cork buttons keep the leaves flat with the main part of the table.  You might have to experiment with different thicknesses, depending on how much the leaves sag.  Once he got the right thickness, he put a few coats of polyurethane over them to help keep them in place, and seal them.  Sorry I don't have any pix.  Not my boat!!!  Hope this helps.

Bob,
I noticed in your pic that you still have the plastic shift and throttle handles.  You might want to consider changing them to the SS models.  It's not a question of if they will break, but a question of when.....and it's NEVER at a good time.  Just a thought.

Jim,
That was for the standard mast.  There might be a slight difference between a std rig and tall rig, but I don't think much.  I have no idea what a furling mast might weigh.

Steve,
I asked that question of Gerry Douglas a number of years ago about my C36. His answer was about 600#.

Sailingdolphin,
I moved up from a C36 (which I owned for 18 years) to a C400 four years ago.  I'd be happy to discuss this topic with you.  Drop me a note at tjsoko at aol dot com.

Greg,
I did exactly what you are describing for my C36.  I used 1/4" T&H plywood and 1/8" louan (sp?).  I rough-cut the dimensions and used contact cement to join the pieces to end up with 3/8".  The fiberglass sub-floor is stiff enough that I didn't notice any flexing at all.  I used the old floorboards as a template, and a router to round over the botom edges as the originals were.  The first coat of sealer I put on was poly on the top.  That was followed by West System epoxy on the sides and bottom.  Why seal the top first?  Because no matter how careful you are, you will get drips from the bottom & edges that will "stain" the beautiful T&H top.  Sealing the top first makes the drips easily wiped off and leaves no stain.  After two coats of epoxy on the bottom and sides, I put 5-6 coats of poly on the top.  Came out beautiful, and completely sealed against future water instrusion.  Hope this helps.

John,
When I replaced the PSS bellows on my C36, the shaft log was 1-5/8" OD.  PYI told me to order the 1-1/2" bellows, as it would stretch slightly to make a snug fit.  They were correct.  I'm 99% sure that your C34 has the same shaft log, as it has the same shaft and same engine as the C36.  Hope this helps.

Kent,
I ran several different impellers in the Oberdorfer pump without washers for many hundreds of hours, and never had a problem.  I never could figure out what they were for.

Roger,
If your prop strut is in the lower right corner of the picture you posted, then I think you are correct that the vertical crack was not structural.  It was simply at the edge of the "filler" that is put around the prop strut during construction.  I've attached a photo of the prop strut without the filler, taken during a Woodland Hills factory tour in 2006. Gerry Douglas gave the tour and explained how the prop strut is installed.  This photo is actually of a C34, as the last C36, #2305, was finished and sitting outside.  Hope this helps.

[IS]

Mark,
The 1986 Universal M25 IS a 21 hp engine!  The M25XP (introduced in 1987) is a 23 hp.  Many ignorant brokers list them otherwise.

Ed,
Here is a pic of the boom cap, forward end, of my '87 C36.  Not much there except a washer and cotter pin.  Hope this helps.

While you are at it, you might want to upgrade the outhaul.  That's what the rest of the "stuff" is in the pic.

To me that looks like just the trim ring is broken.  It looks like the trim ring (with an "L" shaped cross-section) has been pulled down and broken.  The trim ring looks three dimentional, and not two dimensional.  Not sure how it would get broken, without leaving any marks on the overhead....