Messages

Pete,
I've had good and easy results using plastic wall anchors in situations like this.  Another way was to use a dab of epoxy putty, the stuff that comes in 2 colors to be kneaded together, on the back side of the hole and redrill for the existing screws.
On a separate note, when reinstalling self taping screws it's good to start with screwing in the wrong direction, when you feel where the threads pass the start, sort of a click, then turn the right direction.  The purpose is to put the screw into the threads that have already been made and not make a second thread.
Hope that helps,
Jim 
Here is just one brand.  It's easy to find in most hardware stores or Amazon.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-All-Purpose-2-oz-Epoxy-Putty-1999131/206156392?irgwc=1&cm_mmc=afl-ir-2003851-1420157-bing&clickid=z47XqZSf3xyPWL4X4a3bUUkeUkHWAOV0EWnR280

The coolant in the bilge is there in the spring after winter.  None in the bilge during the season.  I've asked around and apparently its a known issue.  I guess over the hard winters the hoses/engine contract, and you get a small drip.  Over 6 months, and it being non freezing fluid it accumulates.

I go over the engine every spring and make sure the hose clamps are snug. Never an issue during the season.  It's about 2 cups.

Shamrock, a 2001, in 20 seasons has never lost any coolant into the bilge, summer or winter (that's Erie Pa winters).  2 cups isn't much, but it isn't normal.  If it were me, I'd look for the leak before it got to be a real problem.  Possible a crack in the expansion tank.  Does the cooling system hold pressure?
Jim

Rather than enlarging the holes have you considered opening up the scuppers, it's fairly common on other makes of boats. Cutting 45 degree angles into the scupper railing to the bottom of the hole would do it. That eliminates clogs and drains the deck much more quickly. You'd have to finish the cut ends of course but you'll have to do that to the enlarged holes as well.

That's the way my MKll is made.  I like the idea of drilling out the holes and installing a short pipe/tube to drain the water away from the hull.  That should reduce the black streaks from deck water running down the hull.  Somewhere that idea is posted here.  If you use a hole saw it's best to plug the old hole with a wood plug before drilling so the pilot drill on the hole saw works and the hole saw doesn't walk.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Thanks to everyone.  I should have know that information would be here.  Good information and a fine start for me.
Jim

I've been thinking about batteries and electrical use.  I'm starting an energy audit, that is a list of my 12 volt power users and their amp/hour draw. 
Has anyone done an energy audit?  If so please share and please share how you arrived at your numbers.
As I'm most concerned about use at anchor my list will include LED anchor light, fridge, Keurig coffee maker, cabin fans, possibly Engel freezer and more as I think about it.
Thanks,
Jim

I am looking into new sails

The sailmaker should need the P and E (luft and foot) measurements to quote a sail.  If it's a local loft they should measure the actual dimensions of the boat.  If not I'd recommend you take the measurements and not depend on factory or what somebody else's boat uses.  Never can tell what has happened over the years.  It's easy to do, all you need is a 50 foot tape measure.
Jim
 

How so you cut the bands...?

Big scissors or slip a thin piece of wood under the bands and use a knife. They cut easy enough if they are plastic as mine were.
Jim

Sorry, I should have been more specific.  Did you attach the straps themselves to the tray or where they wrapped around the tray and the tank and then cinched down?

They wrapped around the tray, same as the original banding straps.  That's the reason for pulling a tracer line with the old banding straps then used the tracer to pull the hold-down strap thru.
Jim

Ok.. I think I get it.  How did you secure the ends of the straps?

Rolled them up, sort of more liked folded, then secured with cable ties.
Jim

How did you attach the rachet straps?

When I pulled the old banding straps I taped a tracer line and pulled it through.  I didn't use rachet straps, used cam lock straps and pulled tight.  The strap had the cam lock on one side and only one strap that followed the path of the original banding straps the cam lock was on top and the extra length of the strap was secured.  Was simpler to do then explain. 
Jim

I don't have a picture, but there are a couple of black straps that hold the tank to the tray, and I'm not sure how you remove them.

They are banding straps.  Only way is to cut them off. Sounds brutal but it's the only way. If you have some pull on a loading dock you may be able to borrow a tool and the material to replace them. I replaced them with Harbor Freight hold down straps.  Something like this but with only one strap and no hooks.  Has worked for many seasons and a lot of sailing.
https://www.harborfreight.com/set-of-two-6-ft-cam-buckle-tie-downs-94012.html

Jim

I've been thinking about buying this.   
https://www.eblofficial.com/products/ebl-2000w-portable-power-station

Advantages for me, self-contained, fast charging with shore power or my Honda generator (2hours), solar possible, fits under nav table

Disadvantage for me, not integrated into boat, wouldn't hook up to start boat or charge from engine.

Saw it here.  There's many posts on Lithium batteries, it's a work in progress for them so some information is outdated and updated in later posts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlZ_9SJeeVE&list=PLsT7_jPsZM5pFpq8RX0oxjibknM2Gz361&index=91

My question for the more knowledgeable, how long will it run my Engle freezer? It uses 1.2 amps, estimate it runs about half the time to keep food frozen hard.

I would appreciate any comments pro and con to help me make a decision.
Jim

There's a winch on the starboard side of the boom.  Is this standard? If so, what is it intended to be used for?

Like Ron I don't think it's standard.  On the boom its purpose was probably for the outhaul.
Jim

My 30 year built in Microwave finally bit the dust.

It would be nice to find one to match but if you can't as Noah suggested repair may be a good option.  I've repaired microwaves a few times, a surprising number were internal fuses that were easy to replace.  You do need to be very careful, electricity may be stored up in the unit (forget what it's called, maybe magnetron?). 
I suggest you look to the web, I usually find a number of helpful how-to videos on everything. Just takes some searching to get through the ones that are just trying to sell.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Also make sure you're getting power to the plug, unplug the microwave and plug it into an extension cord you  know has power.

Unstepping is not a viable option at this time since the nearest place to do that is over 40 miles away.

Bummer.  Did the rigger explain his plan to run the wire up through the compression post then seal it inside the mast?  The wiring on Shamrock is in a short pipe, 8"? high, then all sealed with sealer, maybe silicon but not sure.  Don't see how it happens, unless the wire is run outside the compression post then thru the deck around the mast step then into the mast.  I just mention this because you may not know the rigger's plan and like it. I would expect his cost, labor, to be quite a bit. But then he may have experience with this and have a good solution.  I'd want to know before he starts drilling and cutting.
If you really feel the wind instrument is necessary, perhaps wireless would be a good choice for you.
As always, Your boat your choice.
Jim