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Messages - seanmcelligott

#1
I have a terrible confession to make.  In the year and a half that I have owned a C34, I haven't joined the association despite receiving an incredible amount of value from this forum.  Oddly, I am a member of the C36 association which I joined when I borrowed their cutlass bearing tool (and I recieve the mainsheet from them).  Honestly, the reason I haven't joined the C34 association to date is not the $25 bucks.  It's that I can't get around to printing out the application form, finding a stamp and an envelope and mailing it in with a check.  You would think that I could spend one of the many hours I spend perusing the forum to accomplish this simple task, but it is what it is.  I know this makes me the laziest person alive.  But I might not be the only one.  The C36 membership can be obtained online using payments through pay pal.  You can renew that way was as well.  Would it be worth jazzing up the "join" page on the website (perhaps accepting paypal or credit cards) so that someone enjoying the forum could be just a few clicks away from membership?  Perhaps we could even have a banner or some other type of direct link to the "join" page from the forum.  It could say something like, support this forum join or renew your membership today with a link.   Then we could sit back and rely on forum user's guilt (or fear of being an ingrate) to swell the membership.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Folding props
November 12, 2008, 08:12:58 AM
I would be intersted in buying your 3 bladed prop if you decide to upgrade.
#3
I was basing it in what Ken said about retrofitting the s1.  I wasn;t able to find anything about this on the raymarine website. 
#4
I had the same problem wth the rudder position sensor.  I actually had to limit the swing of the rudder (with pieces of wood) because the rudder position sensor only had so much play.  I bought mine in the fall of 2007, and was so mad to see the new version only months later not requiring the sensor.  Defeinely worth waiting for.  I will probably plunk down the extra 200 to upgrade if that is possible,
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder Stops
November 05, 2008, 01:41:02 PM
I had to add additional rudder stops (pieces of 2x4) to my steering system when I installed my autopilot (did not encase them in fibreglass).  The rudder position sensor only had so much play and I had to limit the swing of the rudder.  I added two four inch pieces of 2x4 to each side of the qudrant housing to limit the swing.  I must say that there is no effect on the steering and that you could probably limit the rudder swing a lot more without losing much practically.  I think the rudder on the C34 is very very powerful relative to the boat.   I guess if you were going a long way pretty much straight it might be worth doing, but I hadn't heard of this danger before.
#6
I am getting a new headsail from cruising direct (now North Direct) and am in the process of filling out their headsail measurement form.  It is very complicated and I'm not 100% sure of my measurements.  Has anyone filled out this form before for a TM?  I could use a check on my numbers.  Any help appreciated.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Thru hull question
November 05, 2008, 11:56:10 AM
I actually have a similar problem with this fitting.  When I open the valve, it leaks.  When it's closed it doesn't leak.   Does this mean I need to replace the valve? Where do I get one?
#8
Main Message Board / Re: cutlass bearing replacement
November 05, 2008, 11:53:27 AM
The Catalina 36 owners website will let you use their cutlass bearing removal tool.  Click on the tom sentor's toolbox link. They are a good bunch of folks, and they ship the tool around to whoever needs it.  I did mine last winter took 2 hours, bearing costs very little.
#9
I have the original furler in my 1988 which I believe is the Hood 915 from reading other posts.  The continuous furler line is the one line on the boat that I didn't replace after buying the boat last year and of course it is the one that snapped this weekend on my way home from an overnight cruise.  One of the reasons I didn;t replace it is that it seemed like it would probably be difficult and I couldn;t find any posts on the subject (my exclusive source of knowledge pretty much).  Anybody out there done it?
#10
Horsemel,

I have tons of extra o rings if you need some, just send me your address and they are yours.  My leaks were from the plastic piece in the middle of the frame.  Do a search and place some clear caulk there and you may be OK.  I ordered 6 new gaskets from defender only to find my gaskets were actually fine, water was coming in from the grey plastic piece.
#11
Thanks for the advice, you guys are the best.  I ended up picking the height for my lazy jacks by ascending the mast and stopping and drilling when I became scared s---less.  This was about 4 feet above the spreaders.  I climed a halyard with some moutaineering equipment (petzl ascenders) after a lot of research on different methods.  It was fun and the young kids at the marina thought I was pretty cool, but I was very sore in the morning.  The lazy jacks are part of a mack pack system, I will post a pic when done.
#12
Main Message Board / Re: cabin sole
May 28, 2008, 03:02:25 PM
Thanks for the advice, the boards are all stripped and waiting to be refnished in my shed.  I am going to give them a very light sand, clean with acetone and apply 2 coats of sanding sealer and then 3 coats of ultimate sole.  Hopefully it will come out ok, but to be honest, I don't really mind the look of a fibreglass floor, and if it is a diaster I may refinish with starboard (at least at the compnaionway like the new boats).
#13
Does anybody know the distance from the deck to the spreaders on a 1988 Mark I Tall Mast?  I have to install lazy jack eyes exactly 27 feet above the boom and would rather not drag a tape measure all the way from the boom. 
#14
Main Message Board / Re: cabin sole
May 13, 2008, 09:46:24 PM
So I have cleaned the sole with a variety of cleaners, mostly bleach and sunlight.  What I have now looks like the attached picture.  I need something to restore the color and lustre to the wood.  I was thinking of using teak oil, will that affect my ultimate sole application.   Is there a stain people have used.  The wood doesn't really have black stains anymore but is washed out.   Any thought about treatments before applying ultimate sole?
#15
Main Message Board / Re: cabin sole
May 10, 2008, 05:44:44 PM
Seems like there is a split of authority on this topic.  I am going to try the bleach and teak cleaner approach on the worst part and see what happens.  I am also fully ready to replace if it seems hopeless.  You should have seen the collection of dirt an other nastiness underneath the sole.  I am confident that PO never had the sole out before.